CheeseForSteeze

In the product on amazon I linked, the bead is the brass object in the center of the guide. Basically, it's a round brass "bead" that is non concentrically mounted. It just as acts as a bearing surface on the base edge. Since the bead is non-concentrically mounted, as you rotate it, it lifts the guide so it files the base edge away at an increasing angle. The bead has several "snap" stops built into it so it stops at predetermined angles of rotation, each one corresponding to a different base edge angles (increments of 0.5, starting from 0.5 to 2.5 degrees). Basically, they've done the geometry for you and the once you snap the bead into 0.5 degrees, the bead will lift the guide to file the base edge at that angle.



Some people do ride with an acute angle, say 2.0 base / 1.0 or 1.5 side edge to achieve an 89 or 89.5 degree edge angle. Based on my experience asking people about their setups, I've heard of angles all the way through 88.5 to 88.0 being used. From what I gather, you would not want such a corner angle if you are riding hardpack and aren't bombing big mountain deep powder. Even an 89.0 would be necessary only for real free riding. The effect of an acute corner angle is cumulative with the base edge being shallow as well (0.5 or even 0.0).

I prefer a 90.0, 90.5, so I would set 1.0/1.0 or maybe a 1.5/1.0. I've tuned old boards all the way to 2.0/1.5 and 2.5/2.0 and it gets a little sketchy on hardpack which is what most transitions and landings are coming off jib features in East Coast parks. It's incremental, but noticeable.


I take the approach that each deck is slightly different and handmade, the edges may not be set flush or matching angle to the base surface as other decks. I just tune it at increasing angles (base edge first, then side edge to keep it from exceeding a 90.5 or 91.0 corner edge) until I find a set that I like. I'm not so much worried about the edge sets angles in an absolute sense - I only care that I can deduce what the final corner angle is using the angles. If it happens that it's 2.5 degrees on the base an 2.0 degrees on the side edge feels right, then that's what I use. It doesn't bother me that I might have 0.5/0.0 on another deck. Even with a good set of vices, a steady hand and experience, setting an edge angle is more of a feel type excercise, than a precision machining one. This is why I tune my own edges and if I didn't, I would try to find one particular shop and use the same guy. I highly suggest using the "sharpie method" too - color the edge you are setting with a permanent marker and make sure you completely remove the surface.

Once I set my angle, I don't ever tune it again. I only use the file guides to take a light pass at the surface if it becomes extremely coarse. But I prefer just using a hard gummy stone because it is better at taking the coarseness away while minimally affecting the edge set. Note that I ride almost primarily freestyle and racers or alpine enthusiasts will find edge tuning and maintenance to be a much more painstaking task.

The111

I am brand new to snowboarding, but when I was growing up I was way into BMX, and I learned very quickly that even for the most complex operations (truing or building wheels), the local shops often did a pretty poor job (and charged a lot for it). Sometimes it was a good job... but sometimes not. Notably, it was inconsistent. I spent hundreds of dollars on tools to be able to build and true my own wheels. I was destroying rims enough that it was actually worth it.

But it's not really about the money... more about the satisfaction of doing a job right, first-hand. You can easily spot an untrue wheel with your naked eye and ask for your money back. But can you easily spot an edge which is 1 angle more or less than what you asked for?

What tool/method does a snowboard shop use? Unless it's a prohibitively expensive tool/setup or an incredibly specialized/complicated skill, I see no reason not to do it myself. If there is indeed a problem with some mainstream tools as I believe I may have discovered (I will gladly be shown how I am wrong), then more reason to stay away from shops who may be using such tools.

CheeseForSteeze

Trimjet

The111

Ahh, so it's option number 1 then. Cool stuff, definitely probably more reliable than a minimum wage kid with a hand tool.

CheeseForSteeze

I haven't found many shops that have machine tuning, though. Depending on your local scene, you might be just as well off eyeballing a bastard file with no guide at all :/

The111

Yeah, I figured that. Thanks also for the further explanation of the tool you recommended. I will probably give it a shot here soon.

And yes, I like the Sharpie method too. It's also what helped clue me into the "3 point contact" situation described in my OP (that along with ptex particles).

CheeseForSteeze

If you can find a shop to run it through the Wintersteiger, it might be worth it. Most shops, if they offer a full tune package, should have a stone grinder for base tuning and edge tuning. Again, the shop needs to have competent operators who know how to set the feed and guides and maintain the machine because the machine is only going to as precise as its maintained and operated.