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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Dc PBJ bevel

Looking to tune my board but have no idea what the bevel is on it. My boards a 2010 dc pbj 155. Ive heard 3 on the base but thats not for sure. I want to go 1 on the base this season and see how that works. What would you all suggest. Keep it how it is or change?. Im mostly trails and a little park (starting this year)

edit: and with my dakine edge tool. What should I use for the side the 90 or 88 if I keep the 3 this year
Thanks!

Last edited by dakotaspeir; 09-18-2011 at 06:48 PM.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 07:00 PM
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It's probably set at 1 and 1 from the factory. 3 (base edge) would raise the edges up quite a bit from the snow and wouldn't be great for anything but heavy park riding, especially if you are hitting urban or technical kinked features. With the 90/88 edge tool, you will only be able to get either 0 or 2 degrees. You'll need a 3 degree tool and you'll one specifically for the base edge and one for the side edge.

If you don't understand how the geometry of beveling works, I'd highly suggest taking it to a trustworthy shop that can set it up for less than the price of a tool, since a good tool can be well over $40. After that, just maintain the edge with a diamond stone and a hard gummy stone being careful to make light passes.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheeseForSteeze View Post
It's probably set at 1 and 1 from the factory. 3 (base edge) would raise the edges up quite a bit from the snow and wouldn't be great for anything but heavy park riding, especially if you are hitting urban or technical kinked features. With the 90/88 edge tool, you will only be able to get either 0 or 2 degrees. You'll need a 3 degree tool and you'll one specifically for the base edge and one for the side edge.

If you don't understand how the geometry of beveling works, I'd highly suggest taking it to a trustworthy shop that can set it up for less than the price of a tool, since a good tool can be well over $40. After that, just maintain the edge with a diamond stone and a hard gummy stone being careful to make light passes.
Thanks from what I read dc set this board up to be really forgiving to noobs so it had a 3 but ill run it up to my shop. Well worth the 20 until I figure it all out lol..
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 07:15 PM
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If it's set @ 3 degrees base edge, there's nothing you should have to do with it. You could bring the side edge bevel in to increase grip. At 3 degrees, you'd have a 90 degree corner which is a nice, sharp edge with good grip. I personally like a little less than 90.0, I'll stay at 90.5 or 91.0 but you need a guide that will let you get a half degree cut.

Honestly, unless it's really dull and you notice a lack of grip on hardpack, just buy a hard gummy stone and a diamond stone and use that to maintain the edge. Use the diamond stone to make 2 or 3 passes and take out the burrs and the hard gummy stone to condition it and smooth it out to a polish.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice!. I still seems pretty sharp. I have the nose/tail detuned and was just going to go ahead and do tune the edges but ill grab my diamond and gummy and go from there fixing the little burrs
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