If you want to mainly do directional freeriding (especially if you want to carve turns instead of skidding them), don't have much interest in the park or little spinny tricks, and if you have a freeride board with stiffness above a wet noodle, you'd do very well to crank your bindings to higher angles. Anything from 35-45 Front and 33-43 Rear would be good. Higher angles will work better for higher speeds and directional freeriding for a few reasons. First, it will eliminate boot overhang, so when you set the board on edge, you can rail the board at at high angle to the snow without your boots hitting the snow and tossing you into oblivion. Second, the higher angles balance out the ease at which heelside turns can be made in comparison to toesides. And finally, higher angles provide added support to higher edge angles and carving, especially at higher speeds, since they take advantage of your ankles' natural lateral stiffness. (ie; You'll have much LESS uncontrollable ankle flop and chatter at higher speeds and edge angles, and MORE control.) At some point with increased angles, you'll begin to loose some stability and leverage with soft boots, especially on wider boards, so the angles above are optimum in softboots. (Alpine riders usually run with much steeper angles yet, since they have more support in hardboots and generally ride narrower boards.)
For freeriding, keep your stance narrower than what the park guys are using. (18-21" is fine depending on what suits you. Maybe add another inch if you ride powder.) Going much wider facilitates spinning and jumps, but kills the flex pattern of your board which is what you want to retain for freeriding.
Also adjust your highbacks to have a fair bit of forward lean, to help you maintain a low center of gravity on the board, and provide better support for heelsides turns.
IMO, these higher binding angles are underutilized by most freeriders.
Last edited by AAA; 02-25-2008 at 06:39 PM.