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post #31 of 174 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 03:50 PM
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Doubt it man, thats serious prehistoric shit there!
Well its useless then.

The swallow tail is back on track.

I have made a template and from my last binding bolt I have 140mm measuring to the back section that I want to cut out. Is that leaving enough meat?

What did you use to cut the wood back 5mm?

And when you cut through edges of the board with jig saw did you start cutting on the edge or did you have hole in the board and cut towards the edge?


Last night I looked at lot different swallow tail designs and I have to say your is unique and looks the best.

Last edited by Sim79; 02-25-2012 at 08:34 PM.
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post #32 of 174 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well its useless then.

The swallow tail is back on track.

I have made a template and from my last binding bolt I have 140mm measuring to the back section that I want to cut out. Is that leaving enough meat?.
That is heaps

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What did you use to cut the wood back 5mm?.
I used a 4" angle grinder with a 1.0mm cutting wheel for most of it and then a dremel for the tightest part of the radius because the bigger grinding disc didnt fit.



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And when you cut through edges of the board with jig saw did you start cutting on the edge or did you have hole in the board and cut towards the edge?.
I used the grinder to cut through the steel edges and started from outside and cut in with the jig saw.




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Last night I looked at lot different swallow tail designs and I have to say your is unique and looks the best.
Thanks. It works incredibly well too.
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post #33 of 174 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 10:00 PM
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I made few templates, I didn't like the first one so no pics of that one.



A. Something simular style to ETM, but after looking closely at rounded ends, I decided againts it, as its going too hard to make it look neat with the edging, plus its not protected as much due too the edging stopping sooner. It would look a lot nicer with rounded ends, but its harder to do and offers less protection.
B.Same template just moved back, this is when I noticed having pointed ends would be less work and it offers more edge protection and strenght.
C.Slight change
D.Slight change, I like this one the most, but have see if there is enough room to get a grinder and dremil in.
E.Slight change, pic not taken square so template looks very off alingment.



A

B

C

D

E

Last edited by Sim79; 02-25-2012 at 10:04 PM.
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post #34 of 174 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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I think A. If you leave a sharp point its asking to be smashed off thats why I rounded mine off. Its really just for when you are standing the board up on hard ground. You will be surprised how strong it actually is when its all finished.
Template looks great BTW.
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post #35 of 174 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 10:18 PM
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I think A. If you leave a sharp point its asking to be smashed off thats why I rounded mine off. Its really just for when you are standing the board up on hard ground. You will be surprised how strong it actually is when its all finished.
Template looks great BTW.
When you have spare moment could please post a close up pic of one of the rounded ends no rush.
I just can't see how you can cut the edging with a grinder and the still have nice rounded ends with no edging. When you cut the edging did you fill the cut in or did you make the cut very shallow?
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post #36 of 174 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Ok in this pic it shows close up of one of the tips. Yes my edges are rusty and I need to clean them up lol.
The red circle is the end of the steel edge, it actually makes contact with the ground when the board is stood up.
The blue circle is where the "tip fill" ends. This is the same material they use for the sidewalls and is very tough, there is no need to cut back into the tip fill material.

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post #37 of 174 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 11:00 PM
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Thanks ETM, makes more sense now.

Last edited by Sim79; 02-25-2012 at 11:03 PM.
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post #38 of 174 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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No worries mate. That thing copped a beating in japan too, I rode lots of gondolas with metal flooring and you just have to throw the board in as fast as you can. If it was ever going to break it would have been in one of those gondolas.
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post #39 of 174 (permalink) Old 04-03-2012, 07:05 AM
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So our season is ending, maybe one more little powder dump before I hang up by boots and start cutting up my board. I think I have the general idea from this thread but I wanted to ask a few things.

1) When you cut back the core do you cut at a 45 degree angle from above and below so as to create a space for the urythene filler?

2) How far back do you cut? I am thinking 1cm or so is enough.

3) Did you fill the gap with the exposed core in sections?
I am thinking using masking tape and just letting the filler sit due to gravity which will mean rotating the board and doing the entire cut edge in maybe 3 sections.

4) How much of a gap do you leave between the cut edge and the inserts.

Other than that it seems pretty straight forward and since I am loving my proto so much I am 100% sold on making the Volkl a 100% deep powder monster swallowtail.

I will post up a few shots when I have a design for the swallow tail shape. Probably be similar to yours as it maximises straight edges which are easier to cut cleanly and keeps the tips thick and so strong.
Of course it won't be identical.

If mine comes out well my buddy may do his too.

Just pure fun making things.
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post #40 of 174 (permalink) Old 04-03-2012, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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1) When you cut back the core do you cut at a 45 degree angle from above and below so as to create a space for the urythene filler?
I cut mine square, you are removing any wood that absorb water if left exposed.

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2) How far back do you cut? I am thinking 1cm or so is enough.
10mm is heaps, excessive if anything. The deeper you cut the more glue you will need and the longer the curing time. I recommend about 5mm.

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3) Did you fill the gap with the exposed core in sections?
I am thinking using masking tape and just letting the filler sit due to gravity which will mean rotating the board and doing the entire cut edge in maybe 3 sections.
this is exactly what you need to do

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4) How much of a gap do you leave between the cut edge and the inserts.
my board was a channel board so its a bit different. I would leave no less than 50mm


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Originally Posted by dreampow View Post
Other than that it seems pretty straight forward and since I am loving my proto so much I am 100% sold on making the Volkl a 100% deep powder monster swallowtail.

I will post up a few shots when I have a design for the swallow tail shape. Probably be similar to yours as it maximises straight edges which are easier to cut cleanly and keeps the tips thick and so strong.
Of course it won't be identical.

If mine comes out well my buddy may do his too.

Just pure fun making things.
Get chopping brother!

I actually just got my template back from cnc routing, I have gone from chopping boards to building my own from scratch! Its addictive when you realise you can make something that works so well.
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