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Old 01-05-2012, 02:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Beveling Side edge - When do you know you're done?

Ok got my kit from racewax (SKS edge beveler). Didn't know what I was doing but was going to do it anyway. New Evo, with the 0/90 edge. So I wanted a 1/89 degree bevel to take the edge off a little.

So I do the base first. No problem I get it. It actually didn't offer much resistance but metal shavings came off. I did it until I didn't feel much resistance. Went to the side edge and oh boy. Shavings were coming off like crazy. I eased up on the pressure and just started doing lighter passes and it was still grabbing metal. It got to the point where I figure, I need to stop. There were a lot of shavings.

Did I fuck it up? Eh who cares it should still ride, and there's still a sharp edge. But I'm afraid I may have taken off too much on one of the quadrants (the first section I worked on).
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Color the metal edge with a sharpie. That will show where the file has touched.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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They market that as a base/side edge file guide, but a different type of guide should be used on the base edge. Here is an adjustable type guide: PRO SHARP BASE BEVEL GUIDE

The sharpie method works OK but honestly, those guides are best used to maintain an edge that was set on a Wintersteiger or some other automatic guide. I've used them to set my edges before and I have no doubt they aren't super precise, though with some experience, you can get them within half a degree. It's like using a vernier calipers; you or I might use the same calipers on the same thing and come up with measurements 5 mils or more difference whereas trained techs have the "feel" to get the same exact measurement. The problem is doing lighter or stronger passes will tend to rock the guide and change the angle and with some guides capable of achieving 0.25 degree accuracy, you can see how this will really effect the feel and amount of material removed.

Honestly, you probably aren't going to effect it too much with what you did. We aren't alpine ski racers who have to get a tune set up with 0.25 degrees for the surface conditions.

If you want to do it really precisely, you're going to need a good, stable bench with some vices set up, and some really accurate guides: ALU PRO-EDGE GUIDE - 0 DEG and FINAL CUT BASE BEVEL GUIDE-1 DEGREE

They make gauges you can use to check your work: FK SIDE & BASE BEVEL GAUGE

That's too much money (IMO) to spend for snowboarding. Just take a diamond and gummy stone and finish it and see how it rides. I didn't even bevel my Westmark until a 2 weeks ago.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Read the tuning tips on the top of racewax.com it'll expain exactly how to do it correctly, even how to place the files in that tool correctly. I really don't think you fucked it up tho. I have that same tool and it works great, I do agree that you need something like the above if you want it super precise.
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