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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Engraving a top sheet?

Has anyone ever done this DIY style or had it done by a professional engraver?

My 2010/2011 board did not come with a serial number. Since I am usually at resorts where theft is (unfortunately) common, I would like to have some form of ID on it. I lock it up whenever it's not in my direct sight, but going with the thought of "better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it" I'd like to have some way to recover it if needed.

I was thinking of putting it somewhere under the binding if possible. I contacted a local engraver but I would have to bring it in for an estimate to see if they could even do it. My hesitation is that it doesn't sound like they've engraved a snowboard before, so is there anything I should be aware of or look for in their services before having them do it?

The other issues I foresee at this point are that it's a bio-polymer (beans) top sheet AND textured.

I have a Dremel and a steady hand but don't want to eff it up if I do it myself.

Any thoughts, experience, or advice? Thanks!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 03:12 PM
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is it a mervin board? strange that it didn't come with a serial number.

whatever you do, color the engraving in with a sharpie and put a thin coat of urethane over it to keep water out.

practice on something similar.

Dude, suckin at somethin' is just the first step to bein' sorta good at somethin'
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 03:12 PM
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a kid that comes to my shop is a cousin of seth morrison.... (skiier for k2)and will recieve some of seth's retired skis. He was given a test model that had no graphic and was hand engraved with a serial number in the side wall.

Thats where i would put it... (assuming its not capped)the ptex there is pretty thick, wouldnt have to worry so much of going to deep. youcould also put something in the base at the very apex of the nose or tail right along the edge.

BUCK FURTON
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Riley212 View Post
is it a mervin board? strange that it didn't come with a serial number.

whatever you do, color the engraving in with a sharpie and put a thin coat of urethane over it to keep water out.

practice on something similar.
Yup it's a GNU. I thought it was strange, too, and after poring over every inch of the top sheet and having someone else look over it also, I called Mervin. They said it must have been one of the few that ran through before they started putting serial numbers on every board last year.

Good idea about inking it and sealing it with a urethane. Thanks!

I can't think of anything similar I can use to practice on first, though. Especially having that texture to work with...I can imagine the Dremel hopping and skipping if I don't use a heavy pressure. And if I use too heavy a pressure, going too deep...

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a kid that comes to my shop is a cousin of seth morrison.... (skiier for k2)and will recieve some of seth's retired skis. He was given a test model that had no graphic and was hand engraved with a serial number in the side wall.

Thats where i would put it... (assuming its not capped)the ptex there is pretty thick, wouldnt have to worry so much of going to deep. youcould also put something in the base at the very apex of the nose or tail right along the edge.
Interesting...does 'hand engraved' mean with a power tool (like a Dremel) or hand tool?

It's not capped. I haven't considered putting it on the side wall because I thought there was a greater chance of it getting marred there. The problem with putting it near the nose or tail (I think, could be wrong) is that since it's a Mervin board, it's not fully wrapped. And like the side wall, it might have a greater chance of being damaged there (?)

Thanks for the responses so far!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 03:58 PM
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Shouldn't be a prob for an engraver to put a number in it. Just get them go as shallow as possible but deep enough to expose (hopefully) the lighter color underneath. Engravers do this all the time with two-colour material, ie Black top surface/white base surface to route out text for plaques...

Just tell them max depth of like 1/32 or something so they know to not go too deep
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by EatRideSleep View Post

Interesting...does 'hand engraved' mean with a power tool (like a Dremel) or hand tool?

It's not capped. I haven't considered putting it on the side wall because I thought there was a greater chance of it getting marred there. The problem with putting it near the nose or tail (I think, could be wrong) is that since it's a Mervin board, it's not fully wrapped. And like the side wall, it might have a greater chance of being damaged there (?)

Thanks for the responses so far!
ya looked like a dremel.

.... one of mervins only faults IMO. I dont see how an edge being there would make a difference. i only refferred that spot becuase it gets very little contact. As for the side walls you can be a little more strategous than right in the middle. like near the toe or heel of the binding. a bit more protected there

idk just opinions... you could even get a scribe and do it by hand in the top sheet.

BUCK FURTON
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by grafta View Post
Shouldn't be a prob for an engraver to put a number in it. Just get them go as shallow as possible but deep enough to expose (hopefully) the lighter color underneath. Engravers do this all the time with two-colour material, ie Black top surface/white base surface to route out text for plaques...

Just tell them max depth of like 1/32 or something so they know to not go too deep
Thanks, grafta; I was hoping you would chime in on this. Based on your occupation, I thought you might know the tech side of it. Thanks for the max depth measurement guideline.

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Originally Posted by zk0ot View Post
ya looked like a dremel.

.... one of mervins only faults IMO. I dont see how an edge being there would make a difference. i only refferred that spot becuase it gets very little contact. As for the side walls you can be a little more strategous than right in the middle. like near the toe or heel of the binding. a bit more protected there

idk just opinions... you could even get a scribe and do it by hand in the top sheet.
The only issue I've heard about the edge not being there (and it could also be an example of Mervin's reason for NOT fully wrapping) is that a shop friend of mine told me how he is always repairing the nose of a customer's older Gnu board. But he also said she must constantly be running into shit for it to happen so often haha.

Oh okay yeah on the side wall near the toe or heel of the bindings would be a good spot.

If I use a scribe tool and do it by hand, I'll definitely have to put it under the binding. And use as few characters as possible haha.

Thanks again for the thoughts and ideas, guys!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 04:32 PM
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It may be difficult for engraver to setup to do curved and narrow sidewall. Depends on the machine
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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It may be difficult for engraver to setup to do curved and narrow sidewall. Depends on the machine
Thanks for the heads up. If I go the route of professional engraver, I thought it would be easier for them to do the top sheet.

Do you think the textured top sheet matters much? It has a snakeskin texture.

Thanks!
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by EatRideSleep View Post
Thanks for the heads up. If I go the route of professional engraver, I thought it would be easier for them to do the top sheet.

Do you think the textured top sheet matters much? It has a snakeskin texture.

Thanks!


Oh god

Should be fine
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