colindn

first post here, great info on this site

i'm upgrading my setup for the first time in 6 or 7 years. have a ride antic 160 and rome arsenal bindings on the way. I'm an intermediate rider (despite having snowboarded for many years, i just don't get to go that often) and stick to free ride stuff on east coast/icy hills.

there are a million posts on here with people trying to wrap their heads around edge tuning and edge angles. so here's another one

i've moved to quite a remote location, but luckily one with lots of natural terrain and lots of snow. however, i'm 5+ hours from the nearest snowboard shop and i'd like to start doing my own board maintenance. as mentioned above, i'm a bit confused about edge sharpening. as best i can tell, the ride antic is factory set at a 1 degree bevel. most of the tuning tools that i can find online only have pre-set 88 and 90 degree angles.

so my questions are - can anyone recommend a cheap edge took that will suit my board? and can anyone give me a reasonable explanation about the best way for me to be tuning my board with the tool. a lot of the videos online seems fairly contradictory. if i could get it done by a professional on a regular basis, i would, but that's just not a possibility for me.

lonerider

You need three things - deburring stone, a file, and a bevel guide (you usually can buy the last two together).

You NEED a deburring stone, because if you don't deburr first, you can file away edge trying to sharpen it, but the nick/burr is in the way.

Trust me that $35-40 is the cheapest you are going to find for a decent, easy to use bevel guide with file. I have the FK one I linked on the above, and it has lasted my five years and probably will last me many more (with file replacements). Anything cheaper is either going to break soon, or will give you a crappy sharpening (making it just a waste of time and effort).

This Toko Edge tool allows for 0.5 or 1 degree base bevel and multiple side bevels (including 89, which is a 1 degree side bevel). I mentioned it because there is a video on how to tune your edges on youtube using that specific tool (I've also embedded it below)... the guy is a little more meticulous than I am with tuning and has a intense flattop haircut to match

CornedBeef

I was looking to pick up this swix edger Swix Edger 2x2 from Backcountry.com

Just $22 and can be used on the base and side edges. Same options as that toko ergo tool

lonerider

I had that before. It didnt work as well for me for some reason and the file didnt seem to be a standard size so it was harderel to replace when it wore out.

Bayoh

Base-Side Bevel File Guide SKS Multi Tool + 3 DMT diamond stones w/ file

Same file guide but with diamond stones included. Use the black stone for sharpening and blue/red for deburring and polishing. Files can take a lot of metal off your edges if you're not careful. Basic edge maintenance you should mostly stick to the diamond stones.

This is how I maintain my edges:
To maintain your edges(they're not dulled, but feel rough when you run your finger along them) use the diamond stones to clean them up.

-Start with the blue stone on the side edge till it feels smooth as you run it along the edge. Finish with a few passes with the red to polish.

-Then the base edge, make just one or two passes along the base edge with the red stone. All you're doing is cleaning up any micro-burrs from working your side edge. WARNING:If you try grinding away at your base edge too much, it will eventually change it's angle.

-Now you're done, but I usually take a gummi stone, hold it 45 degrees to the edge, and make a single pass along the entire side to get rid of any lingering micro-burrs.(Probly just being anal about it)

Just to note... You will get cuts and scratches along your edge that will be too deep to completely get rid of. You'd have to file a lot of metal off to get them looking like new which isn't worth it.

colindn

really helpful responses, thanks so much guys. the tools look perfect.

with regards to the "1 degree bevel", i'm wondering what this means with regards to side and base edges. does it mean the side edge is 89 degree and the base is "flat" (zero degrees)? If that's the case, what do I set the angle on the tool when i tune each edge.

Oh geometry.

redlude97

Most likely it refers to the base bevel, with the side bevel at 90 or 89

Bones

It probably means a 1 degree base bevel and a 89 degree side bevel. You want the base and side to add up to 90 degrees or less, never more.

Here's a link for all your edge questions:

Tuning - The Carver's Almanac

ashwinearl

How do you like the Antic? I keep gravitating towards it as a solid value for intermediate rider? I want something that I can turn quickly, and I keep hearing that about the Antic.

colindn

Hasn't arrived yet, shipping from across the friggin' continent. But like you, it seemed like the best board for money for a responsive, all mountain free ride board.

Just wanted to share the response i got from Ride regarding my tuning questions

"There is a catch with tuning your board without having the base ground. You are always cheating and increasing the base bevel because you are removing edge material and not base. So if you never get your board ground you're are going to end up base high and it will make the board feel loose. You should get a board ground at least once a season. A great shop should spend a few minutes grinding or belt sanding your board. However, the amount of surface area on a board and the stresses put on them when riding no board is perfectly flat but a good tune should make it flatter than it was before.

So for an at home tuner I suggest this

Only file the side edge and POLISH DO NOT FILE the base.

You want your edges smooth not "sharp" feeling; ie no burs. FILES LEAVE BURS! I edge with burs will not feel smooth to ride and will dull quickly. If you run your finger on the edge it shouldn't feel sharp it should feel smooth. The best way to check if an edge is sharp is to look at it closely and see if there are 2 reflective surfaces. If there are 3 then you have a blunt corner (dull edge) Obviously boards take a beating and you are going to end up with some spots that are worn down that is normal just polish them real good and you'll be fine.

The key here is a gummy stone and frequent polishing. Files are generally overkill. You should polish your edges every day you ride, base and side edge. Just a quick hit with a gummy stone. This keeps them sharp, smooth and bur free.

A little kit for edge work would look something like this.
-Gummy stone
-100-150 grit moonstone or polishing stone.
-Fine tooth file.
-Side edge guide.

Extra - 250-300 grit polishing stone.

Obviously WAX! WAX! WAX! Most people have a board that needs wax. There is no substitute for a hand hot wax.

Your board is a one and one that is a one degree. You can change the bevel if you want the steeper the bevel the more aggressive the board will be. I run I 2 on the side and a 1 on the base for example but an Olympic racer may run a 4 side and a 3 base. The steeper angle will dull quicker and it not recommended for most people. "