Bobby Budds

Hey,

In the past I have rode a directional and a twin. I understand the difference between these boards, is the way the holes are setup. I know twin's are in the middle and the board has an even distance from the binding holes to the tip. Directional is set back a little bit.

What exactly are these new like directional twins? Are the holes drilled like a twin(even distance to tips) but the board is designed more like a directional to be rode one way?

As well with my gnu park pickle(twin), I have been setting the bindings back a hole on powder days. I found this helped it ride better in powder. I've left it like that and tried riding directional on groomers now. I found that I enjoy being further back on the board more then in the middle. What is the difference with riding a twin setback, and a true directional? Is there much difference in the board design? For example I'm looking for a directional board to buy, and I've found a twin that I really like. Could I use the twin and set my stance back, or would it make more sense to buy a true directional!

Thanks!

d15

Directional:
Sometimes the tail width is narrower than nose width (a.k.a. tapered).
The nose is typically longer than tail.
The sidecuts are directional.
Inserts are sometimes setback.

Pure Twin (a.k.a. true twin):
Everything from the nose & tail length, nose & tail width, and sidecuts are all exactly the same whether you face backwards or forwards.

Twin Like (a.k.a almost twin, or directional twin):
The sidecuts are the same, but the nose length is slightly longer than tail. This is usually so that the board can ride a little better over crud or pow. They're also setback by a small amount.
Also, by directional sometimes they're referring to the core, such as how the tail part is snappier/poppier/stiffer than the front.

Asymetrical Twin:
Everything is twin, except the heelside sidecut is a little deeper than the toeside for easier heelside initiation.

david_z

You got it figured out pretty much. typically a directional board might have a slightly tapered shape to it so a different sidecut, making the tail narrower than the nose. It may also have a different flex for nose/tail, stiffer in the tail. A directional twin would be like a twin shape with most likely a small setback so it's gonna be easier to ride your forwards stance than to ride switch. With the advent of rocker/reverse camber, the directional shape is no longer as important for instance, for riding pow, because the rocker assists with float and relieves stress on the back leg, etc., which the original D-shape & setback was supposed to help with.

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phony_stark

Also, to make things more confusing, some boards called directional twins, will be twin in shape, but have a directional flex, commonly the tail is stiffer than the nose.

Bobby Budds

Thanks for the info. Does anyone have anything to say about the quote from myself overhead?

d15

Setting back on a true twin board makes the geometry retarded. You're better off getting a directional/almost twin that's already set back a little.

dreampow

I have ridden twin boards with a setback when the pow gets too deep. Not a problem, but I would only do this for pow now for freeride as the sidecut and flex will not be optimal.

Zombaco

Question on this design: I'm assuming the nose and tail are the same size and the same distance from the binding holes? With the deeper heelside sidecut, when mounting bindings for goofy- my nose of the board would be the tail for regular riders? Essentially goofy and regular bindings will be mounted in the same direction?

d15

Yes exactly as you mentioned. The company should make an indicator (such as on the graphics) telling you which side should always be your heelside. The Gnu Pickle does this.

Notice on the left edge of the topsheet, there're arrows telling you heelside should always be there regardless of your stance direction.