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Old 08-20-2012, 10:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How bad is the partial edge design? Does it justify the need to buy something else? Am i screwed, as my last board had full edges and the nose and tail are pretty wrecked... Why in the world wouldnt they just make it full edge wraping and forget about that extra half a pound.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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How bad is the partial edge design? Does it justify the need to buy something else? Am i screwed, as my last board had full edges and the nose and tail are pretty wrecked... Why in the world wouldnt they just make it full edge wraping and forget about that extra half a pound.
Wavy edges are a pain to lay by hand, doing a full wrap with wavy is even harder. Saves a boat load of time to tuck edges, saving time is saving money. They use a deeper than average tip fill to "protect" the wood core but if you bang up tips a lot you have a fair enough chance to rip out an edge and an even better chance to peel the topsheet. A pulled edge can be somewhat fixed by a good tech, topsheet peels are "fixable" with epoxy but it will never be as good as new.

That's only one reason I can give you as to why any Gnu/Lib should not be a top choice though... I could rant...
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Wavy edges are a pain to lay by hand, doing a full wrap with wavy is even harder. Saves a boat load of time to tuck edges, saving time is saving money. They use a deeper than average tip fill to "protect" the wood core but if you bang up tips a lot you have a fair enough chance to rip out an edge and an even better chance to peel the topsheet. A pulled edge can be somewhat fixed by a good tech, topsheet peels are "fixable" with epoxy but it will never be as good as new.

That only one reason I can give you as to why any Gnu/Lib should not be a top choice though... I could rant...
Could this justify getting a new board, I bought it like 3 days ago, i can still return, but my only other option is to buy a burton. I paid 350, but the boards go for 600, at that price i cant imagine that you can break them easy. Im not hitting park! The heck with it, im going to take care of it, if it break im going to fix it, if it break easy im going to fix it and never going to buy another mervin board. I wish i could get a jones or the new slash by Gigi ruf.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Could this justify getting a new board, I bought it like 3 days ago, i can still return, but my only other option is to buy a burton. I paid 350, but the boards go for 600, at that price i cant imagine that you can break them easy. Im not hitting park! The heck with it, im going to take care of it, if it break im going to fix it, if it break easy im going to fix it and never going to buy another mervin board. I wish i could get a jones or the new slash by Gigi ruf.
Ripped edges are more common with someone that rides trees. Glance off a tree, snag an edge.

Yeah the retail price of Mervin is my biggest qualm. Unless you get an inside deal on inline stuff there is always something that either rides just as well or better for cheaper. And if the other option just happens to be the same price, it will at least have full wrapped edges and probably other better tech.

Jones are harsh, Gigi is wildly untested (by consumers) and also funded by Nidecker, so also probably a bit harsh. They're mostly powder focused brands, who needs dampening in powder? So don't worry too much, at least the Gnu wont push all the chatter and every bump up into your knees.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Ripped edges are more common with someone that rides trees. Glance off a tree, snag an edge.

Yeah the retail price of Mervin is my biggest qualm. Unless you get an inside deal on inline stuff there is always something that either rides just as well or better for cheaper. And if the other option just happens to be the same price, it will at least have full wrapped edges and probably other better tech.

Jones are harsh, Gigi is wildly untested (by consumers) and also funded by Nidecker, so also probably a bit harsh. They're mostly powder focused brands, who needs dampening in powder? So don't worry too much, at least the Gnu wont push all the chatter and every bump up into your knees.
planing on tree riding alot, looking for glades and pow stashes. Other option would be a burton custom, sherlock or a process. Im down for est and the price is the same. Im going back tomorrow to pick up some pants so i could do a swap. Im not bad at riding, but im going to trash my board by tress and rocks and shit. Apart from edges is there anything i should look for?
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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planing on tree riding alot, looking for glades and pow stashes. Other option would be a burton custom, sherlock or a process. Im down for est and the price is the same. Im going back tomorrow to pick up some pants so i could do a swap. Im not bad at riding, but im going to trash my board by tress and rocks and shit. Apart from edges is there anything i should look for?
What did you get, and where are you riding? If you deal with shit snow 40% or less (like you're in Utah or Colorado or Wyoming...) then the Sherlock is an amazing in bounds powder board.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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What did you get, and where are you riding? If you deal with shit snow 40% or less (like you're in Utah or Colorado or Wyoming...) then the Sherlock is an amazing in bounds powder board.
Haa canada here, so all natural big mtn riding. I got a billy goat 162! But i heard that burton top sheet cracks and im not Too fond of est, as it limits me to burton only board.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Haa canada here, so all natural big mtn riding. I got a billy goat 162! But i heard that burton top sheet cracks and im not Too fond of est, as it limits me to burton only board.
Nearly every binding manufacturer makes M6 conversion now so you're not locked into Burton bindings. Even though the Malavitas are super rad anyhow, the hinge rules. They'd match super well with the Sherlock.

If you're all mountainy I'd switch for a Sherlock. If you're freeridey this is one of the rare cases I'd say Gnu. Just cause I'd rather see you keep your money at your local shop than find something online. It's by no means a terrible board, just not worth the $600 or so they ask full price. When it really comes down to it a board choice is not as important as we make it out to be. Don't get a jibstick to drop cliffs or a cliff dropper to slide metal and you're probably going to have fun as long as you don't over think your stick. Some of my all time best pow days have been on complete jib sticks. One was upper side of Breck in Lake Chutes on my Nitro Subzero and the other was mobbing around the backside of Keystone on my jib sized Signal Park. Your riding is more important that your board.

I don't remember anything major about peeling topsheets on Burtons. If there was something it was likely a factory problem on a certain model. Nothing I would worry about.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Nearly every binding manufacturer makes M6 conversion now so you're not locked into Burton bindings. Even though the Malavitas are super rad anyhow, the hinge rules. They'd match super well with the Sherlock.

If you're all mountainy I'd switch for a Sherlock. If you're freeridey this is one of the rare cases I'd say Gnu. Just cause I'd rather see you keep your money at your local shop than find something online. It's by no means a terrible board, just not worth the $600 or so they ask full price. When it really comes down to it a board choice is not as important as we make it out to be. Don't get a jibstick to drop cliffs or a cliff dropper to slide metal and you're probably going to have fun as long as you don't over think your stick. Some of my all time best pow days have been on complete jib sticks. One was upper side of Breck in Lake Chutes on my Nitro Subzero and the other was mobbing around the backside of Keystone on my jib sized Signal Park. Your riding is more important that your board.
EDIT: I might add that my previous board was a DC PBJ in 153 with a flex rating of 2.5 out of 10. By no means am i freeridey but i try to spend ALL my time in pow, tree runs and side country. To warm up i do some hard charging groomers but then ill switch to unmarket areas.
I don't remember anything major about peeling topsheets on Burtons. If there was something it was likely a factory problem on a certain model. Nothing I would worry about.
The burton sherlock would also be avaliabe local, but i like the feel and the stiffness of the Gnu. Honestly im getting cartels like tomorrow so i can get the sherlock, as long as you promise that the channel wont fail on me!
The Billy feels solid in hand and i perfer the 4x4. Sherlock has that stupid RC combo which i wasnt happy with when i got the Gnu so id rather go with something like camber custom... And the burton doesnt have any edge tech. Screw it im keeping the Gnu, BUT if anyting goes wrong ill be sure to not get a mervin product anymore. I was led to believe that Gnu and libtech are way superior to a burton by the shop owner.

EDIT: I might add that my previous board was a DC PBJ in 153 with a flex rating of 2.5 out of 10. By no means am i freeridey but i try to spend ALL my time in pow, tree runs and side country. To warm up i do some hard charging groomers but then ill switch to unmarket areas. Also i would love to keep magne, and im sure that Gnu wont break that easy.

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Old 08-21-2012, 09:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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How bad is the partial edge design? Does it justify the need to buy something else? Am i screwed, as my last board had full edges and the nose and tail are pretty wrecked... Why in the world wouldnt they just make it full edge wraping and forget about that extra half a pound.
Hi Blunted,

Here is something I wrote for our first shop back in the early 90's. This debate has been going on for a while

Don't spend too much time debating tip and tail construction:

Many first time buyers become focused on the differences between manufacturer's approaches towards tip and tail construction. Some brands argue that wood in the ends is the way to go for a consistent flex pattern. Others state that you need fiberglass for low swing weight. Some argue that extra metal edge should be laid in, to protect from damage, while others feel this added weight is unacceptable. Truth is, it really doesn't matter much at all. First off, most boards are damaged in the pickup on the way up the hill or by trying to jam the tail into snow that turns out not to be snow on the way in to grab a burger, or by the baggage handlers at La Guardia. No type of end structure will prevent against this. Metal edges all around, when struck hard, often wedge themselves into the board, creating more damage than had they not been there. On the other hand, the weight of the small amount of metal added, can barely be felt by even the most seasoned rider. Similarly, wood in the tip, adds almost no weight, but doesn't really enhance the ride either. The downside of having wood to the end is that if the board does sustain edge damage to the core, the wood will absorb moisture and is much trickier to fix. The bottom line is, be careful with whatever board you choose, and don't let this be the deciding factor.
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