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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by fhendo190 View Post
Ha some slightly mixed messages but it sounds like detune the tip and tail otherwise grow some balls and learn to ride ha
I forgot to mention, you will smell like vagina if you detune the tip and tail. The pit zips on your jacket for some, are to let out the heat, for others, to let out the smell.

I do find I have a lot of fun with vaginas though, so there's that.

Last edited by phony_stark; 11-11-2012 at 01:11 PM.
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 01:13 PM
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Doesnt matter either way. You can detune the tip and tail ... or not. You will still ride just fine.

I've ridden it both ways. I also took my NS Evo to a 1 degree bevel (both base and side) and detuned the tip and tail.

It was noticeably smoother, and less jumpy riding flat.

But you're new. Don't do shit. You don't even need to do the tip and tail, unless you're planning on buttering your first time out (unlikely).

Just ride it. Just know that 0 degree bevel makes for very quick engaging (and some brutal take downs)
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 01:34 PM
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So to summarise:
  • Don't worry about touching the edges until(if) you discover a need to.
  • Don't worry about the tip and tail, though it won't do any harm if you want the kill half an hour. Just be careful not to go far past the contact points, you can't put the material back on.

That's a pretty solid board and binding combo, you should progress fast on it. Where in the alps are you going to be?
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Slush Puppie View Post
So to summarise:
  • Don't worry about touching the edges until(if) you discover a need to.
  • Don't worry about the tip and tail, though it won't do any harm if you want the kill half an hour. Just be careful not to go far past the contact points, you can't put the material back on.

That's a pretty solid board and binding combo, you should progress fast on it. Where in the alps are you going to be?
when you do want to to the tip and tail, Lay the board on its side, look to see where it touches the surface. That is your contact point. Put some tape a little in front of that. Don't go past that. Take a file and go to town.
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by phony_stark View Post
Yep! You can ride it out of the box, but detuning the tip and tail will reduce a lot of unnecessary edge catching.
A lot of people parrot stuff. Detuning the nose and tail will do little for 95% of riders... even park riders because they aren't good enough for it make a difference. I rode over 15 years and detuned the tips on one board and it was barely a difference.

You have to realize 99% of the people on this forum are not very good (i.e. anyone who describes themselves as an intermediate or less) but they like to act like what they think a expert park rider would do.

I rode a proto ct on spins and and board slide with out touching the edges.

Last edited by lonerider; 11-11-2012 at 02:18 PM.
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 02:34 PM
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Same here I ride rails all day and didn't touch my proto's edges. In fact, I sharpen my edges regularly. And I'm willing to bet I'm better than 99% of people on this forum
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 02:42 PM
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There is always the satisfaction of knowing that something is 'right' regardless of whether it makes an actual difference or not.

I detune the tip and tail, well, because I can.

And to the OP your new SL is more forgiving than the straight up cambered boards that many of us learnt on. You'll be fine learning and then progressing on it. It's a great set up - exactly what I got last season.
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 06:48 PM
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There is always the satisfaction of knowing that something is 'right' regardless of whether it makes an actual difference or not.

I detune the tip and tail, well, because I can.
Do you deburr your edges with a diamond stone at the end of every day? That is going to make 10 times more of a difference. That's the difference between doing stuff that actually matters... and doing stuff because you think that's what the hardcore riders do.

I forgot I had this... but I did a 1-hour rail session with my board like this doing boardslides, lipslides, nosepresses and tailpresses, etc ... 0/0 bevel, no detuning.... and a busted edge. If I can't catch my edge riding a board like that (and I am by no means a great jibber)... do you really think detuning your nose or tail is going to matter much?



Edit: I should add that in general I prefer 1/1... but I only bothered to do that when the edges needed to be sharpened anyway.

Last edited by lonerider; 11-11-2012 at 07:38 PM.
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 07:03 PM
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sharp rails but detuned contacts imo.

0/0 is fine and you can go 1/1 no biggie.

The way NS camber profile is coupled with the 0/0 bevel can actually be more punishing than "the cambered boards we learned on" because of the rocker between the feet. This causes an instability not present on classic camber. Hence a new rider can suddenly find themselves teetering on the rocker and going to a contact point - scorpion. This is a smaller swivel point as it is only from the middle to whichever edge is caught, meaning it requires a little more finesse and it happens faster - whammo!

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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 07:05 PM
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Do you deburr your edges with a diamond stone at the end of every day? That is going to make 10 times more of a difference.
I do. I know plenty of people that do neither, they don't seem to have any problems.

From what I can tell, doing the tip and tail makes more difference on a camber board anyway. My friend had never done anything with his edges on a years old Custom and they were chewed to bits. After sharpening for the first time he found it very hooky, he didn't like it. But that improved a lot with doing the tip and tail. I didn't find any real difference after doing my Evo.
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