fhendo190

OK guys...
So i'm a beginner but have wakeboarded, skated and skiied for years so anticipate progressing quickly. I have snowboarded for 1 day in total and can link turns (wouldn't say carving yet) both sides and am comfortable on most runs. Will be doing mainly groomers with some park - jumps only.

I'm going over to france in a few weeks for the whole season and have decided to snowboard primarily whilst there, a good opportunity to really get into it!

I have bought a Never Summer SL 2011/2012 158 new (clearance sale) in store and burton cartel bindings.

My first question is... am I mad to start out with this board? I really can't afford to buy several boards and I didn't want a beginner board that I would outgrow within a few weeks of the season. Am i about to eat dirt/bruise my ass for 4months?

Secondly... I dont fully understand what people are talking about but I aware that the board comes with 0 bevel. As such many people seem to detune the edges of the board - or at least the nose and tail before the contact area. I was hoping to ride the board out of the bag with no real changes - I will just wax it regularly throughout the season.
Should I be looking at detuning or changing the edge?

a bag of it

Don't detune or mess with the edges at all until you have a good idea of what you're doing. Once a board is detuned you can't bring it back and if it's your only board you'll definitely want edges. I think the sl is a great board to start with, not too soft, but not too much board for a beginner

phony_stark

Nah, you'll be fine on that board. It's got a hybrid Reverse Camber shape and is mid flex.

To understand beveling (I'm assuming base) there are links on this board, but a quick way is to make two "L"s with your fingers (paper football style). Those L's, as they are, are a 0 bevel with your thumbs being the base and fingers being the edge.

Tilt just your thumbs toward the floor and you've made a base bevel, point just your fingers toward each other and you've made an edge bevel, point both and you've made a base and edge bevel.

Having a base bevel on the board causes the board to take a smidge longer to engage which reduces the chance of catching, when you're doing stuff. I like a one degree on the base, and one degree edge to keep things a little sharp, but wouldn't even mind just a one degree base.

All that being said, I think you can probably ride the board out of the bag with no problems and, if anything, will help you learn edge control and make you a better rider. Although I had WAY more fun after detuning the tip and tail, because eating shit because of those is something that can and should be avoided.

Remember, 90% rider 10% gear.

Bones

The zero bevel means that the edge base bevel is flush to the snow and the side bevel is 90 degrees to that. A lot of manufacturers bevel the base slightly (1 degree or so) so that the edge is slightly lifted off the snow. This reduces the edge from catching when you slide sideways. Park riders tend to like a higher base bevel so that they slide easier with no edge catch on rails, etc.

My personal opinion is this: you're a new rider. You will catch edges no matter what the base bevel is. Filing off metal will not save you from doing this. As you get better, you will have more subtle control over your edge angles. When you get to that point, you may have developed a personal preference for edge angles and then you can adjust things in 0.5 degree increments until you get what you want. It is very easy to increase the base bevel angle, but it is difficult to reduce it.

The rocker shape of the SL will save you from many an edge catch simply because the contact points are lifted off the snow.

Just ride it out of the box, learn, enjoy, get better. Post again when you've got 20-30 days under your belt or are carving.

fhendo190

Ok thanks for your help everyone.

Looks like I'm sticking with the NS SL, keeping the factory bevel but sounds like I should only think about detuning the nose and tail?

fhendo190

When you say WAY more fun, you recommending I should detune the tip and tail before the contact point? And is that more fun for buttering etc or general riding?

phony_stark

Yep! You can ride it out of the box, but detuning the tip and tail will reduce a lot of unnecessary edge catching.

phony_stark

Definitely Both....

BigmountainVMD

Or you can not be a pussy and don't detune anything. Are you riding rails? No? Then don't detune any points of contact. You are gonna be carving up some sick mountains in France and want your edges to hold, not give way. I have NEVER detuned a board, but I also NEVER hit rails. I keep my edges at factory bevel and sharpen them a couple times each season to increase edge hold while carving. You will be happy when you are charging and your board doesn't fly out from under you when you hit an ice patch. That being said, detuning outside of the contact points for butters won't hurt, just make sure you are not within the contact points.

Learn to ride the board correctly WITHOUT detuning it and you will have better technique because of it. Then if you actually detune it, you will be a boss.

Also, riding hardpack and ice will detune the board slowly but naturally over time.

fhendo190

Ha some slightly mixed messages but it sounds like detune the tip and tail otherwise grow some balls and learn to ride ha