Salomon Man's Board - Length for me - Please help

[lonerider]

Originally Posted by laxinchili

right now, I'm about to pull the trigger on The One MagTek... 156 or 159... probably the 159 (i'll settle at maybe 155 maybe 160 lbs in winter)

Lol, I have only barely heard about that board... good luck. I can safely say what ever decision you make... you had plenty of information before making it!

[laxinchili]

Originally Posted by lonerider

Lol, I have only barely heard about that board... good luck. I can safely say what ever decision you make... you had plenty of information before making it!

hehehe I'll read around for a while more before dropping cash on it

but next come the bindings... I have some salomon spx pros from 05, these ones:



Now, how much better are current bindings with toecaps??
Do you guys these are still viable??
I wanted to upgrade to Salomon Chiefs for this year, but if the upgrade wont be very noticeable/don't really need it, I would rather save the $$$.

[lonerider]

Originally Posted by laxinchili

hehehe I'll read around for a while more before dropping cash on it

but next come the bindings... I have some salomon spx pros from 05, these ones:



Now, how much better are current bindings with toecaps??
Do you guys these are still viable??
I wanted to upgrade to Salomon Chiefs for this year, but if the upgrade wont be very noticeable/don't really need it, I would rather save the $$$.

I actually do like true toecaps (I haven't been a fan of the hybrid toecap design that Rome has been sporting recently) - but I don't think they are a must have feature... you probably can buy some toecaps and retrofit your current bindings.

In my opinion, I think your bindings still usable. The main job of the binding is to attach your boot to the board, and that really hasn't changed too much. In general bindings have just gotten lighter, with more adjustment options and are slightly more comfortable/ergonomic/responsive... but they are incremental changes (although 6 years of changes do add up). Always buy previous season gear... so maybe wait until the spring to buy whatever binding you are eyeing right now for 50% off. Also... it is often easier to adjust to new gear if you only change one item (board/boot/bindings) at a time.

[laxinchili]

Originally Posted by lonerider

I actually do like true toecaps (I haven't been a fan of the hybrid toecap design that Rome has been sporting recently) - but I don't think they are a must have feature... you probably can buy some toecaps and retrofit your current bindings.

In my opinion, I think your bindings still usable. The main job of the binding is to attach your boot to the board, and that really hasn't changed too much. In general bindings have just gotten lighter, with more adjustment options and are slightly more comfortable/ergonomic/responsive... but they are incremental changes (although 6 years of changes do add up). Always buy previous season gear... so maybe wait until the spring to buy whatever binding you are eyeing right now for 50% off. Also... it is often easier to adjust to new gear if you only change one item (board/boot/bindings) at a time.

Thank you for your advice. I think I go ahead and upgrade as-well, as it looks like these cannot be retrofitted with the "fast fit" toe straps..


Also I think I am getting the Rossignol Krypto instead of the One because I am more of a freerider.

[lonerider]

Originally Posted by laxinchili

Thank you for your advice. I think I go ahead and upgrade as-well, as it looks like these cannot be retrofitted with the "fast fit" toe straps..


Also I think I am getting the Rossignol Krypto instead of the One because I am more of a freerider.

Oh, I totally forgot about the "fast fit"... I had on my Salomon SP4 shaped, I actually liked that feature yea, you can't retrofit that. You definitely will notice a difference with new bindings (they are a lot less clunkier... but sometimes more confusing to setup) - but I don't think it will make as big a difference as buying NEW BOOTS that FIT you.

Lol... you've changed you board pick like 6 times in the last 24 hours. Maybe I should come back in a week and when things settle down for you.

[laxinchili]

Yeah man, you opened pandora's box here, I'm a terrible shopper.

Could you guys compare the differences between a directional twin like the Rossi Krypto vs a true twin like the One/Angus?

[lonerider]

Originally Posted by laxinchili

Yeah man, you opened pandora's box here, I'm a terrible shopper.

Could you guys compare the differences between a directional twin like the Rossi Krypto vs a true twin like the One/Angus?

In real life there is relatively little difference. I can spin up to 540 and ride switch with minimal changes on a directional board.

Again it is about matching the board to the rider... unless you are literally riding switch half the day... there is zero reason to even think about riding a true twin. Board construction and materials are going to be much more noticeable.

Most get a true twin for identity and/or ego issues as they want to show they hope to be a serious park rider.

[laxinchili]

Originally Posted by lonerider

In real life there is relatively little difference. I can spin up to 540 and ride switch with minimal changes on a directional board.

Again it is about matching the board to the rider... unless you are literally riding switch half the day... there is zero reason to even think about riding a true twin. Board construction and materials are going to be much more noticeable.

Most get a true twin for identity and/or ego issues as they want to show they hope to be a serious park rider.

hmm so to summarize, the only difference between the krypto ,one, and angus are:

the flex: krypto listed at 9/10 vs one/angus @ 7/10
core: krypto trinwood 3 vs one's wood cbf1 vs angus' wood stips c/k
base density: sintered 4400 on the one vs sintered 7500 on the angus and krypto


is it just me or is the angus a better choice and than one because of the base and also 50 bux cheaper?

[timmytard]

The lonerider tells the truth, I don't think I've seen a single thing I disagree with.

I've had a few Rossi's back in the day, didn't think they were anything special.

BUT, I got to demo a Rossi Jibsaw last year, & it was awesome.
Rossi's Amp-tek is the real deal, I don't know what the exact profile of the jibsaw was, but it had magnatraction.

I had a Burton Hero @ the time & after riding the jibsaw for 2 hours, I hated my board & sold it before I could wreck it.

If you like Rossi, I doubt you'll be disappointed with any of their boards
The Krypto sounds wicked & they make it sound really easy to ride, it might be, but with a flex of 9 out of 10 that makes me think your going to have to be on your game @ all times. I've picked it up & checked it out

The Rossi One sounds like a really nice board, it is almost the same as the jibsaw, & I loved the jibsaw. For me personally, the Rossi One sounds like it would suit my riding style better. & with a stiffness rating of 7 it's going to be a lot more forgiving & fun than the Krypto.

For bindings, I just bought Terjes 2nd pro deck from 1995. With the original bindings.
I have about 4 pairs of recent Burton bindings Cartels, Missions, C02's & customs. I was surprised @ how little they have changed.


TT

[timmytard]

Originally Posted by laxinchili

hmm so to summarize, the only difference between the krypto ,one, and angus are:

the flex: krypto listed at 9/10 vs one/angus @ 7/10
core: krypto trinwood 3 vs one's wood cbf1 vs angus' wood stips c/k
base density: sintered 4400 on the one vs sintered 7500 on the angus and krypto


is it just me or is the angus a better choice and than one because of the base and also 50 bux cheaper?

The Angus doesn't have magnatraction, it's more comparable to the Rossignol Taipan Snowboard 2012 | evo outlet

The Angus was $150 bucks yesterday.

The One is more comparable to the Jibsaw. sintered 4400 on the one vs sintered 7500 on the Jibsaw, both flex 7.

I would happily take any one of those 4

TT