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Old 11-15-2012, 09:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY Splitboard Workshop

i'm not affiliated with these guys at all but i saw their ad for this on craigslist and just thought it was pretty rad.


Splitboard DIY Clinic | Chair 2 Board Sports

i've seen the owner post here before maybe he'll see this and chime in - either way, great service to the shred community by offering this shit
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Waterjet cutting?
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i kinda doubt it - there's photos on their site of them using a cutting wheel to do the metal edge... a waterjet would go right thru that right?

i think its mostly machine shops that have waterjets as apposed to snowboard shops

i've talked to dudes about getting the waterjet cut and most are charging $40-60 and this whole class is 50 bucks. i also think part of the whole point of the class is to learn how to do it yourself for future use as well....

.... if i was gonna diy a board i'd get it waterjetted but that's because i have ocd for most people i don't think its the end of the world, especially if its your first split. a nice straight cut is probably good enough.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'd just throw that bitch and a table saw and rip it.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'd just throw that bitch and a table saw and rip it.
wouldnt the millimeter or so that the sawblade turns into dust make the board feel different? I am not sure as to how much a waterjet would remove though, so the difference might be negligible.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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any time you cut a board its going to change it a little bit.you definitely want to cut a wood core, hopefully not cutting thru any carbon stringers although it can be done.
the best way is with a waterjet or maybe some kinda star trek laser . i've never built a diy split but from what i understand most people use a circular saw with a straight-edged jig (a board) clamped to the board as a guide.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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wouldnt the millimeter or so that the sawblade turns into dust make the board feel different? I am not sure as to how much a waterjet would remove though, so the difference might be negligible.
Yeah, the little bit of board removed in the middle really is negligible. Anytime you split a board, you're gonna lose some torsional rigidity. There's just no way around it.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Without a 3 axis water jet there is a problem when you get to the nose and tail due to the fact that the distance between the nozzle and the board becomes greater so it actually removes more material and the neatness of the cut is reduced.
I used a circular saw and then dressed the edge on my linisher so it was perfectly straight.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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nice that they are offering the class. Making the center cut is pretty simple, we just clamp on a guide and hit it with the skill saw. I have even added taper to the board by making two cuts at a slight angle. Putting in the inserts takes a little more time. My buddy makes diy pucks that use the factory inserts and a ski screw, so i dont have inserts for the pucks. Next one i make im going to figure a way not to use tnuts on the touring bracket. Im thinking a couple fiberglassing it to the top sheet and using ski screws.
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Old 11-16-2012, 05:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Next one i make im going to figure a way not to use tnuts on the touring bracket. Im thinking a couple fiberglassing it to the top sheet and using ski screws.
Better to have a few holes in the base than to be stuck out there with a failed mounting system
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