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#1 (permalink) |
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The Rooster King
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,333
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i'm not affiliated with these guys at all but i saw their ad for this on craigslist and just thought it was pretty rad.
Splitboard DIY Clinic | Chair 2 Board Sports i've seen the owner post here before maybe he'll see this and chime in - either way, great service to the shred community by offering this shit
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get the hell off my lawn. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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The Rooster King
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,333
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i kinda doubt it - there's photos on their site of them using a cutting wheel to do the metal edge... a waterjet would go right thru that right?
i think its mostly machine shops that have waterjets as apposed to snowboard shops ![]() i've talked to dudes about getting the waterjet cut and most are charging $40-60 and this whole class is 50 bucks. i also think part of the whole point of the class is to learn how to do it yourself for future use as well.... .... if i was gonna diy a board i'd get it waterjetted but that's because i have ocd for most people i don't think its the end of the world, especially if its your first split. a nice straight cut is probably good enough.
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get the hell off my lawn. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 4,492
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Yeah, I'd just throw that bitch and a table saw and rip it.
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"People say that marijuana smoking is going to get in the way of my career. I say to them that on the contrary, my fighting career is getting in the way of my marijuana smoking." -Nick Diaz |
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#6 (permalink) |
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The Rooster King
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,333
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any time you cut a board its going to change it a little bit.you definitely want to cut a wood core, hopefully not cutting thru any carbon stringers although it can be done.
the best way is with a waterjet or maybe some kinda star trek laser . i've never built a diy split but from what i understand most people use a circular saw with a straight-edged jig (a board) clamped to the board as a guide.
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get the hell off my lawn. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 4,492
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Yeah, the little bit of board removed in the middle really is negligible. Anytime you split a board, you're gonna lose some torsional rigidity. There's just no way around it.
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"People say that marijuana smoking is going to get in the way of my career. I say to them that on the contrary, my fighting career is getting in the way of my marijuana smoking." -Nick Diaz |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Hokkaido in my mind
Posts: 1,355
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Without a 3 axis water jet there is a problem when you get to the nose and tail due to the fact that the distance between the nozzle and the board becomes greater so it actually removes more material and the neatness of the cut is reduced.
I used a circular saw and then dressed the edge on my linisher so it was perfectly straight.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bozeman/Seattle
Posts: 659
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nice that they are offering the class. Making the center cut is pretty simple, we just clamp on a guide and hit it with the skill saw. I have even added taper to the board by making two cuts at a slight angle. Putting in the inserts takes a little more time. My buddy makes diy pucks that use the factory inserts and a ski screw, so i dont have inserts for the pucks. Next one i make im going to figure a way not to use tnuts on the touring bracket. Im thinking a couple fiberglassing it to the top sheet and using ski screws.
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