salad

almost the end of the season and im looking to take the wax off but i dont want to buy a wax remover, help?

Sick-Pow

hot scrape= wax, scrape hot, scrape and brush all of it off.

Dont store boards without wax, the base will "dry out", when exposed to heat.

tanscrazydaisy

I agree with the hot scrape method.

However, the bases drying when exposed to heat... it will take a lot of heat for that to happen, so, I wouldn't be too concerned about that aspect.

To add, after the hot scraping, I would do a nice penetrating hot wax coat with the same warm temperature wax... actually let the wax/base cool completely, slowly. Then scrape, brush, etc.

hktrdr

Agree with the hot scrape.

But how in the world is a piece of plastics going to 'dry out'!?

Banjo

If you have ever dug out an old board from a garage, you've seen it. When the base gets white, it is "dried out". People used to assume this was oxidization of the base, but it is just in fact the base becoming "brittle & dry" (like most plastics do). Once the base is "dried out", you can bring it back with several wax jobs, etc.

A bonus to waxing and not scraping for summer storage is you cover your edges as well which will inhibit rusting.

Soul06

Allow me to ask....why do your want to take the wax off? Aside from to clean it and re-wax that is? I would suggest giving it a hot waxing and store it up for next season without scrapping

hktrdr

Erm, nope.

Indeed. Alternatively, you can just cover the edges with wax.

tanscrazydaisy

if you wax the edges, you can seal in residual moisture that can cause corrosion to the edges during storage.

though the nice thing about my Burton T6 is.... stainless steel edges.... I don't have to worry as much...

Banjo

Use the google.....he will tell you

tanscrazydaisy

the "brittle & dry" of most plastics is not due to the material oxidizing. It is more a break down of bonds within the molecular structure of the material, usually due to UV radiation. Additives to the plastic can be added to avoid this. The other part is localized friction, when you neglect to wax. This is more of a "base burn", again, the structure of the p-tex changes at the surface. Basically the pores becomes closed up. Waxing alone will not rectify this. You have to expose the structure again. You can try brushing from tail to tip with a steel or brash brush to open up the base again, then wax. If that does not work, then you'll have to get the base ground.