Size 13 too big for MW board?

[oprime824]

I Recently spent a week in Crested Butte, CO and rented boards for the week. The last few days I did the demo rental package and rode a 160 cm Rossi onemagtek and a 159 cm Rossi angus. I really liked them both but conditions were super snowy so I feel like I didn't get to really test them and see how well the board fit with me. I'm 6'4 and 200, I wear size 13 boots. I've seen online that with my
Size shoe I should be riding wide boards and I've noticed that rossignol only makes midwide as their widest size. Would size 13 to be big for a board that width? Im not sure if I should look to other brands that make wider boards for my next purchase. Any help would be awesome.

Thanks

[Blazin' Raisin]

I'm also a size 13 and ride wide boards. I haven't tried any mid-wide boards, but the only thing you should look for is toe and heel drag. If you're set up in a mid-wide board and you're hanging over, you should go wider.

[Justin]

It doesn't matter what they call it, it just matters how wide it is. Look at burton wides and they will probably be thinner then the rossi midwides. If you can find out what the width is at the binding inserts that is the best info.

[BigmountainVMD]

Originally Posted by Blazin' Raisin

I'm also a size 13 and ride wide boards. I haven't tried any mid-wide boards, but the only thing you should look for is toe and heel drag. If you're set up in a mid-wide board and you're hanging over, you should go wider.

No overhang will actually make the board more difficult to turn. You want a little bit of overhang (more on toes) to have the easiest turn initiation. More than 1-1.5 inches of toe overhang can cause issues during hard carving. You really don't want more than 0.5 inches on the heel.

Think about where the most pressure is when you stand on your toes. Is is right at the end of your big toe? No. It is at the ball of your foot, the big padded knuckle of your big toe. The closer you can get that spot to the edge of the board (about an inch behind the tip of your boot), the better turn initiation you will have and you will have better/quicker/finer motor control over the board.

[behi]

If you are happy with skidded turns and mellow carves (not tilting the board very much), you can get away with quite a bit of overhang.

I start noticing overhang issues with more than 2cm overhang (my boots are centered, that's 2cm for toes/heels each); e.g. boots dragging in soft chop that the board itself cuts through, the board edge getting knocked out while carving when it gets slightly choppy, the boots dragging in powder that has set for a bit or has a soft crust.

With size 14 (and very compact boots), I currently ride a board with 28.6cm waist and another one with 28cm waist.

Originally Posted by BigmountainVMD

No overhang will actually make the board more difficult to turn.

At size 13 he wont be having no overhang, even with the widest board he can find.

[cav0011]

I have size 13 boots as well (most of them I have used have some sort of footprint reducing tech) The smallest WW I can get away with is 260mm Anything smaller I wind up having significant overhang issues. I comfortable ride 265 +/- 2mm. I think the rossi boards have a WW of 26.1 or so, which should be ok for you.

[BigmountainVMD]

Originally Posted by behi

At size 13 he wont be having no overhang, even with the widest board he can find.

I realize. The point I was trying to make was that the OP should not be looking for a board with no overhang, a little overhang adds control to the board.

[CassMT]

larger boot size can be mitigated with a greater angle on the binding....the idea that any toe drag is better for turn initiation, contro.l or especially carving, is imo, completely bogus...toe drag fouls a proper carve, and if you have to initiate turns with a dragging toe, there is a problem.

[hktrdr]

Originally Posted by CassMT

larger boot size can be mitigated with a greater angle on the binding....the idea that any toe drag is better for turn initiation, contro.l or especially carving, is imo, completely bogus...toe drag fouls a proper carve, and if you have to initiate turns with a dragging toe, there is a problem.

Wrong. To see it for yourself, simply strap your boots into the bindings without wearing them and then tilt the board onto its edge until the boots touch the ground. Drag is only an issue if you are regularly riding with more board inclination than this angle.

[CassMT]

i didnt mean highback angle...that was the wrong term, sorry..meant rotational angle setting, +25/+-12 for example

if you are saying that some toe drag is ok for carving, than we will have to agree to disagree