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Old 04-10-2013, 04:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Waxing for spring conditions?

I really want a wax that will keep my board from getting "stuck" in spring slush and will last at least a full day of riding. My all-temp wax just isn't cutting it, and after a few runs I am not able to pick up enough speed to hit kickers.

I've heard sooo many different things from various resort shop employees. One said I need flourinated wax, one said graphite wax, and the other said no wax at all. Some forum members have said to use some other sort of additive to my wax. So whats the word?

I just bought some of this stuff online and am waiting for it... is this the best I can do? Plz recommend something so I can order it online soon, I'm going to Mammoth in a week!

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Old 04-10-2013, 04:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What condition is your base in? If you get a deep structure ground in that helps a lot.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamps View Post
What condition is your base in? If you get a deep structure ground in that helps a lot.
My base is flat, with a few small scratches. I'm not sure what you mean
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You can get a shop to grind grooves into your base, this is called structuring. The grooves channel water along the boards length. It helps a lot.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onthefence View Post
I really want a wax that will keep my board from getting "stuck" in spring slush and will last at least a full day of riding. My all-temp wax just isn't cutting it, and after a few runs I am not able to pick up enough speed to hit kickers.

I've heard sooo many different things from various resort shop employees. One said I need flourinated wax, one said graphite wax, and the other said no wax at all. Some forum members have said to use some other sort of additive to my wax. So whats the word?

I just bought some of this stuff online and am waiting for it... is this the best I can do? Plz recommend something so I can order it online soon, I'm going to Mammoth in a week!
No.

The rub-on wax isn't going to last. Read:
http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boa... Board Repair.
which leads to:
Quote:
Waxing a snowboard: How you legitimately get wax into a board... and what's a bunch of BS:

So, the next thing to understand is WHY you hotwax a snowboard. The reason is simple actually. A base, is a porous material. It becomes exceptionally porous when heated, because the molecules expand. At this point, the liquid heated wax is free to flow inbetween the expanded molecules of the base, and thereby the base ABSORBS the wax. When the base cools it settles, and retains the wax inside of it.

WAX IS NOT A LAYER ONTOP OF YOUR BASE, IT IS IN YOUR BASE!


When it comes to waxing, considering what wax to get is a big factor. While most the marketing involved with waxes (One Ball Jay's hype) are largely over rated, there are some legitimate things to consider. One of which is temperature. For the most part you can get away with all temperature wax on any given day. However, to really be fast a wax aimed for the general temperature range in which you will operate is best. As a lot of us can't wax slope side however, I won't go into much detail here. Get a nice all temperature wax.

Rub on wax is a silly concept. You're trying to forcefully jam SOLID molecules of wax, through solid molecules of base. You've got three chances of actually accomplishing this: A fat chance, a slim chance, and no chance. You might get some wax slightly in there, but it'll last all of twenty minutes. It's a scam for lazy people. Stop believing it okay? It will increase how slippery your riding surface is however, so there is that benefit. It serves a minimal gain at your contact points. Rub on liquid waxes, along with rain-x and all those other stupid ideas are silly as well. They come out of the board just as easily as they go onto the board... durrrrrrr
SOme more info on Structure, as Lamps pointed out:
http://www.racewax.com/category/tuni...base-structure
Which wax then?

I like Fluorinated waxes on warm snow... late in the season, the snow would probably be dirty, so graphite or molybdenum (which I heard is better & faster than graphite) would also be a good additive to consider.

ONE BALL JAY HYDRO WAX- COOL 150g

then drip on a warm temp wax, and do a proper hot wax.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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For Spring, just get one of the various warm weather waxes, typically red in color. They are super easy to scrape as well and will help quite a bit in spring conditions. There are a bunch of guides here in this subforum that will help with waxing, structuring, etc. as well. Have fun in Mammoth.
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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...and have a couple Zardoz in your pocket
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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that stuff will work good if you get stuck up on the hill, but like others have said you wanna get a good warm weather hot wax on there.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeh, nice thick coat of red, ironed smooth...I sometimes don't even scrape, the ruff snow or corn will do that for ya in the first 100 yards anyway
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Spring waxing is kind of a bitch if you ride for any length of time. In my experience, most all warm temp waxes will last about 2-3 hours in corn snow, and then you're stripped down to a dry ass base for the rest of the day.

I've been using Hertel's race wax for spring riding, and while it doesn't feel quite as good as a temp specific wax, it actually lasts more than a single day's worth in riding. Whatever Hertel does to their wax makes it crazy, crazy durable, you can tell immediately when you start waxing that it's much harder than standard hydro waxes.
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