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Old 05-09-2013, 12:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hktrdr View Post
Clearly you have never ridden in Hokkaido and have absolutely no idea what kind of board works in the conditions there...
I have a question. Your list of mervin recommendations is (more or less) a list of boards from softest to stiffest. I've never ridden japan, so what makes the snow/terrain there especially suited to soft decks?

Up here in the PNW, especially on wet days, you really need some beef underfoot to handle the heavy stuff.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:47 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Shred, what exactly is "full-retard"?

Pretty sure I'm helping.

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Old 05-09-2013, 10:34 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Irahi View Post
I have a question. Your list of mervin recommendations is (more or less) a list of boards from softest to stiffest.
Erm, not really. T. Rice is the clearly the stiffest deck on the list - only included because the OP was specifically asking about it.
The rest of the list is made up of fairly similar mid-flexing boards, with only the the Magic and the Attack Banana being somewhat stiffer than the others - and I had those at 1 and 4, respectively.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Irahi View Post
I've never ridden japan, so what makes the snow/terrain there especially suited to soft decks?

Up here in the PNW, especially on wet days, you really need some beef underfoot to handle the heavy stuff.
Hokkaido pow is generally light, dry, and fluffly. You do not need a beefy deck for this at all (decks do not 'fold up') but you really do need float (through shape, surface area, profile - or a combination of all of these).

That is why the Skate Banana (possibly going up one size) is an excellent choice as all-mountain board here from among the Mervin twins.
But the OP was really interested in CRC, so I mentioned the two Mervin boards that have the most rocker/float with this profile (the Attack and the Magic) - although they are both much 'more' board than needed.
The rest of the list are very similar in terms of float and flex and there really is not much between them. However, as Shred pointed out, none of these will be great in pow - awesome boards yes, pow slayers no.

Last edited by hktrdr; 05-09-2013 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:32 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Consider Burton Sherlock, it's a powder oriented twin.
Can I assume you brought it into deep pow b4? how long was it?
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:40 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Get a stick: directional flex and/or shape and ride the fucker. If it dont suite u get another and ride that one: pretty easy if you ask me. lol
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:02 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Get a stick: directional flex and/or shape and ride the fucker. If it dont suite u get another and ride that one: pretty easy if you ask me. lol
what this guy says ^^^^^^

One of my boards is a 153 Gnu Carbon Credit (center rocker/flat from insert to tips). I weigh about 145lbs so I'm in about the middle of the weight range. I ride mostly in Hokkaido and in the deeper stuff it does not give sufficient float. I feel like I'm doing a manual most of the time and it's a real rear-leg killer. If you're set on going the Mervyn route, definitely oversize.

The board I use most for Hokkaido is a Nidecker Ultralight 158. It's directional, tapered, slight center-camber with rockered tips. Works great in the pow.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:39 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I weigh 175 like the OP and mostly ride a 157 Proto in Nagano. I used to ride a 158 2011 Highlife among many others.

On Deep days I ride a more pow specific deck, but you seem to be looking for an all mountain, freestyle friendly pow capable deck quiver of 1.

Since the Hokkaido pow is deeper and the runs are flatter than where I ride I would say go with something in the 160 area plus or minus 1cm.

It could be twin or slightly directional IMO.

There are so many good boards to choose from and since you already have many recommendations I won't add to your decision making trauma.

I will say that in general I find C2BTX style profiles to float better than R-C-R at the same length. I also don't like stiff decks (T.Rice is stiff) for the Japanese powder and tree runs which are often tight so some flex really helps.

To sum up, for your needs my vote goes for something in the 160cm range (plus or minus 1) with a C2BTX profile and midish flex. Either a twin or a slightly setback directional twin.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:00 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I will say that in general I find C2BTX style profiles to float better than R-C-R at the same length.
Never rode a C-R-C b4 but was thinking the exact same thing; say in powder, full rocker might give a +5 cm bonus (i.e. 155 rocker rides like a 160 camber in powder), R-C-R a +2 bonus and C2BTX should be somewhere in between.

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Originally Posted by dreampow View Post
To sum up, for your needs my vote goes for something in the 160cm range (plus or minus 1) with a C2BTX profile and midish flex. Either a twin or a slightly setback directional twin.
I was still thinking whether I can make a 157 C2BTX work for me. But you are right, powder is amazing but the terrain is a bit flat. So glad I made the decision to post in the forum, will look at the 160 range instead. Thanks

Last edited by Willy; 05-13-2013 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:04 AM   #29 (permalink)
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The board I use most for Hokkaido is a Nidecker Ultralight 158. It's directional, tapered, slight center-camber with rockered tips. Works great in the pow.
Great info, arghhh ... 145 lbs on a 158, looks like I need a 161 at least
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:41 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Just get a board with a gradual up turn on the nose. That is 95% of what makes a board work in pow. Forget the neversummer, they have stumpy noses and that makes them shit in powder.
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