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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 11:52 AM
NJ SHREDDER 28
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Question Edge Beveling

I got a few questions about edge beveling, hopefully you guys can help:

1. I split my mountain time about 50/50 between freeride and park/freestyle, will beveling affect my freeriding?
2. I have a Dakine Deluxe Tune Kit (Pic below) does that have everything I need to bevel?
3. Can someone give me a quick run through of the process and let me know if i need anymore tools to do it?

Also in that green handheld thing, one side of the stone has indented lines in it that cross over each other, while the other side has indented lines that all run parallel to each other. Whats the difference?
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File Type: jpg Dakine Tune Kit.jpg (59.5 KB, 113 views)

Last edited by NJ SHREDDER 28; 09-16-2007 at 12:00 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 01:21 PM
mike1two
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you won't be able to hold an edge as affectively while freeriding.
post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 01:47 PM
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Take the board into the shop to have it beveled. Once you take the edge off, you can't put it back on. And if you muck up...well...it'll be tough to fix.

As for the edgehold thing, put a 2.5* bevel on it. Works well for park and whatnot, and you'll be fine freeriding.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 02:41 PM
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Once you bevel your edges that is it. You should still be able to ride powder BUT don't even think about hitting a run that requires edging like icy runs or steep technical lines. I'm not a freestyler myslef so I consider beveling a sin. If you really want to be equipped for anything/anytime you need to get at least TWO boards. One beveled and ready for doing rails and other features and one for doing runs and jumps. If your hardcore you will even have a powder stick in your quiver. Course, that can get expensive but if you bevel your edges and find out you can't tackle the same terrain as easily as before then your likely to need a new board anyways.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowolf
I run a 1 degree bevel on my Cold smoke and it makes it a little forgiving for park, but still has good edge hold on ice. I would not bevel more than that on your free ride board. I had a 3 degree bevel on my destroyer, because when I was a noob I had constant edge catches and this really helped. After two base grinds, I am back to about a 1.5

If you do bevel the edge...have a shop do it, do not do it at home with a hand file. It is next to impossible to keep the bevel consistent. As Boarder said, once you muck it up, it requires a base grind to fix it and you only have so much base.
I always keep a 0 degree base and a 2 degree side (some boards just 1.5). I'll do 50/50s and maybe boardslides on a smooth top box but no way to tubular rails. Very risky. Maybe bevel out the middle of your board between the bindings (but not all the way from binding to binding but maybe a few inches). That way you should still be able to have sharp edges for your turn transitions and sharp edges on your binding pressure points. You would have some limitations on your tricks though.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 09:44 PM
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umm. even boarder x racers have their boards beveled. bevels are not just for park.
get it done at 2 degrees.

my old board has a 2.5 degree bevel and i did fine freeridng, backcountry and everything. my new board has a 3 degree bevel and thats at the extreme end for a bevel so i'll see how it goes. not much diff than a 2.5 though
post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midwestrider
umm. even boarder x racers have their boards beveled. bevels are not just for park.
get it done at 2 degrees.

my old board has a 2.5 degree bevel and i did fine freeridng, backcountry and everything. my new board has a 3 degree bevel and thats at the extreme end for a bevel so i'll see how it goes. not much diff than a 2.5 though
I think the problem is in the terminology used for snowboard edge angles. When you say 2.5 (3 degree on your new one) degree bevel are you referring to your base edge or side edge? As well as the recommendation of a 2 degree bevel; base or side or both? Because a 2 degree side bevel will seriously fuck this guy up if he hits a rail burr (like I stated above I ride a 2 degree side and 0 degree base and am NOT a park rat; too many mountains around here, so yeah, not just for park). And some park riders round off their edges completely and in my opinion, fuck up their boards at that stage but if it works for them

For the hell of it here are some sites with brief explanations of the various edges and their applications:
FK Tools Ski & Snowboarding Tuning Tools, Waxes and Accessories
And this is a good one: Snowboard Tuning, Repair & Maintenance @ ABC-of-Snowboarding

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2007, 10:55 PM
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I local BMW friend of mine is going to help me with this

I have NO IDEA what the hell I would be doing!
post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2007, 01:04 PM
intake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowolf
Yeah, I was refering to the base bevel. I like to maintain a 90 degree edge so on a 2 degree base bevel, I then maintain an 88 degree edge bevel That gives me a good sharp edge for ice, while having a forgiving base bevel.
I do my edges this way too and find that it works no matter what type of riding I feel like doing at the time.
post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2007, 02:13 PM
NJ SHREDDER 28
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Fuck it, this shit is to confusing. I've ridden park and rails fine for 2 years without a bevel, and with the risk of destroying my edges (even if i take it to a shop and it turns out I dont want it beveled) it just doesnt seem worth it. Plus, living on the Ice Coast I really do need some serious edges.
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