Snowboarding Forum - Snowboard Enthusiast Forums banner

Boots faq and etc

130K views 106 replies 32 participants last post by  wrathfuldeity 
#1 · (Edited)
Edit 6/2013...some of the links to pics have messed up...here is a link to the pic album

https://picasaweb.google.com/114215022719963410889/SnowboardParts?authkey=Gv1sRgCOKP1pftj8bl9wE#


idk mods...perhaps sticky at top of boots....I'm tired of boot fitting questions.

Boots are arguably the most important part of your set up. Everybody’s feet are different and most boots need some mods/adjustment to be comfortable and to get performance. Also go for the highest quality boot you can….they will feel better and last longer. Boots will break-in, wear and pack-out. However you can do things to keep them fitting comfortable and performing well. Over my 9 years if riding I gone through 9-10 pairs of boots and during the past few have finally got it pretty much dial-in as to size model and dealing with pack-out. You will be damm lucky if your first pair without any mods work for you.

The single best thing to do is to try on a lot of boots…different brands, models, sizes and then get then dialed in…..find a quality boot fitter

Originally Posted by Cycle4Fun
You need to find a quality boot fitter. Then it may take several days of riding and boot fitter sessions to get the boot dialed in.

A good boot fitter at a shop will start you off with the right boot for your unique foot shape and riding style. You'll start with the right size and go out and try it. Then you come back and describe in great detail what you're experiencing. You'll walk out with different insoles and/or wedges and go ride the next day. Repeat until things don't hurt and numbness goes away.

I did this with my fiancé on her ski's last year. Her boots had worn out and were too soft. She was badly bruising her bone after a 1/2 day of riding. A couple of days was enough to bring her to near tears after a run despite constant icing at night and pain killers.

We went to an expert boot fitter and got new boots. New boots helped a ton, but were too loose in the toe and she had heal lift. She got an insert and went back out. Better, but not perfect. Heal wedges stopped the last of the heal lift. Came back to the resort the next week to buy the new skis she demo'd and verify the boot fit despite the fact that the conditions were awful. It took one more round of boot fitting to get the boots dialed in.

Modify and check. Repeat. It's no different than bicycle, saddle, and bike shoe fitting.

Get to a good bootfitter. They won't be happy until you're happy. Don't BS yourself and waste money trying this boot and that boot because other people say it fits their feet. Their feet aren't yours.

Which is why you should go to a reputable boot fitter. Your boot could be too wide, to narrow, not enough arch support, poor heal fit, poor ankle fit, too loose. The list of potential problems is huge. Any of which could contribute to numbness.

People suggesting different boots are shooting in the dark. What works for them, may not work for you!

If you do not have a quality boot fitter or want to do a diy….continue


You can make your own butterflies, h, c, or j with some 1/4" adhevisive backed foam...get a piece of it from your local core ski /board shop…it should not cost more than a few dollars. Cover the butterflies, c/j/h with some tape…I use “hurricane” nylon web tape and found it is slicker to get liners in/out of the shell and it doesn’t roll like duct tape.


You can do c's, j's, butterfly's, put a bit of 1/4" or 1/8" self adhesive foam in the front/tongue of the liner. Any good ski shop has it and could sell you a piece to cut your own or have them do it, take your boots in. Also make sure that you really cinch down the inner lace on the 32 focus boas and then you can leave the lower boa looser. I also use hurricane tape (also makes them slide in/out easier than duct or other tape) over the c's/padding so they don't rip off when you insert/remove the liners for drying. Besides the c's there is a bit of foam above the heel area...so it makes a little pocket for the heel to set in and then with the inner lace cinched down there is no heel lift. To position the c's just put on the liner mark where your ankle bone sticks out and place the c so that it would cup that protrusion. I also use ed vessieurs "sole" insoles due to high arches...all snowboard boot inserts are pretty much garbage so a good footbed can/will also help.
 
See less See more
#64 · (Edited)
Thanks @wrathfuldeity for the insightful thread. After being fitted by Wiredsport on his thread, my only option for my wide foot was a snowboarding boot half a size bigger, I have already gotten some Surefeet insoles. So, after two days riding in my boots I'm experiencing heel lift, I'll definitely get started in that. Should I start now before my boot actually packs out or start with the butterfly adjustments then c and j bars?

Sent from my VK410 using Tapatalk
 
#67 ·
winter-lion...well to me the numbers don't mean much but to get you in the ballpark. Hopefully you have gotten to try on the dialogues.

ime, as long as your foot is not getting severely pinched width wise or toes...length wise, you are good...so as you are able to wiggle the tootsies. But the arch/instep thing is more of the issue; in part due to support of the arch (thus the aftermarket insoles that fit your arch) and the insoles help to keep your foot planted inside your boot/liner. I have 32 focus boas and can/do leave the tension fairly loose and at times even unlatched in the foot/lower boa. The lower boa is just to hold your foot in place with enough pressure to keep your foot planted on the insole...it does NOT take that much pressure...And in fact if you are crank it too much you will definitely get pain, numb feet and feel like your foot is getting crushed...because it is.

However, as for the inner lace that holds the ankle and heel in the heel pocket...that is locked down...about as tight as I can pull it. This inner lace is what holds the foot back and locks down the ankle...so that there is very little/no heel lift. You will see in some of my responses...the reference to using "butterfly" wraps...the reason, is the butterfly actually creates a deeper heel pocket and has the potential to mould around the back of the ankle above the heel (skinny part)...and thus help to lock down the heel...due to the creation of the deeper heel pocket.

As for the cuff, i.e., the upper boa...that is snugged down pretty firmly...because the cuff area of the boot/leg is what gives you the leverage to engage your edges. If you have too much slop in the cuff you can't get the power, leverage or support of driving your knees and thus pressuring the edges of the board. This is also where adding some foam to the outside of the liner on the tongue...this will help to push the heel back into the heel pocket and give you a bit of extra padding on the shin...so that you can really cinch the inner laces.

ime, the above works for me. But also ANTICIPATE that you will have some packing out...so when the packing out occures then you will feel it and adjust/add more foam as needed. Again at some point...the packing out will stop (at least in my case with 32 intuition liners) and hopefully you will have made the adjustments/modifications so that they will fit like slippers for years...until the boot shell gives out. Right now on my white 32 focus boas...iirc have 5-6 seasons = maybe 125 days and probably next year...this summer will looking to replace das boots
 
#75 ·
Hello,

I'm new to snowboarding, currently having indoor lessons in the UK and in the process of booking a trip for next Jan/Feb. Based on my experience of hire boots at my UK lessons I'm keen to get hold of my own boots before going.

I measure 29.8 cm heel to toe and standard width (can't remember the measurement) but I never need wide for football boots, golf shoes etc. and I know I generally have a narrow heel.

I have a friend who went and bought everything new for his first trip last winter and after four days he quit and spent the rest of his holiday in the bar. He's offered me his 2018 Salomon Launch BOA SJ (2018) for a bargain price of ÂŁ45 and they look unused to the eye.

They are size UK 12 (31.0) which is a full size larger than my measurement (I've read all I can about fitting on this forum) but I've tried them on a few times over the past week and walked round the house up to an hour at a time. My toes are just about touching the liner front and I have plenty of wriggle room with no noticeable heel lift when trying to simulate turns.

Now on to the point of my post - are Salomon boots known to come up small? I've put my foot over the standard insole and it doesn't seem like I have 1 cm of space past my toes.

Would his four days of falling over have packed them out much? How much packing out can I expect in a week of riding - although they feel fine now I don't want them to be huge.

I know the ultimate answer is get fitted for new boots, and I probably will if I like this trip and plan another.

Thanks
 
#84 ·
Hi Qwerty,
Yes, Mondo 310 will be a full size to large for your measurements posted above. Please let us know your width measurements as well. In regards to the insert, you ill not have 1 cm of insert past your foot. Your foot will overhang the insert by ~1 cm.
 
#76 ·
I was told the best boots are the ones that fit your feet and have found that to be good advice for 20 years, regardless of the brand. A professional boot fitter is worth their weight I have found although all boots pack out and die eventually. Joeysmyoko helped me last year and sold me a pair of Strapins which also made a big difference to my heel lift and response.
 
#78 ·
Understand that ALL boots pack out and eventually you will have heel lift, especially in your back foot if you do a lot of tree riding in powder. This includes high-end boots that were perfect and fitted by a professional boot fitter and less than a season old and I have had many such boots over the years.
They definitely help with heel lift, but I didn't buy them for that purpose. I bought them for backcountry insurance but found they are worth keeping on everywhere. Or just buy a new pair of boots every year if you like.
 
#79 ·
Understand that ALL boots pack out and eventually you will have heel lift, especially in your back foot if you do a lot of tree riding in powder. This includes high-end boots that were perfect and fitted by a professional boot fitter and less than a season old and I have had many such boots over the years.

They definitely help with heel lift, but I didn't buy them for that purpose. I bought them for backcountry insurance but found they are worth keeping on everywhere. Or just buy a new pair of boots every year if you like.


The point is to buy boots to fit your foot AFTER they pack out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#80 ·
Have been reading a lot of great advice on this forum, so throwing my situation out there for help: I have small hobbit feet: 25.5cm with max width 9.5cm about where the forefoot meets the mid-foot. Based on my research, that lines up with size 8 in regular width. However, when I’ve boot shopped in the past, even a size 9 tends to feels like a boa constrictor on my foot, so I tend to size up. I typically wear a 9 dress shoe due to what I perceive is a fairly narrow heal, but 9.5 or even 10 in atheletic shoes to get a comfortable fit. I don’t believe I have a severely high arch, but the top of my foot is high and boney.

Long story short, both pairs of boots i’ve owned have killed the top of my back foot. The Burtons I had caused enough of an issue I sometimes struggled to ride back to back days. I upgraded to some Rides a few seasons back, and they are better, but by afternoon the pain shows up and gets a little worse with each lap. Everything else feels fine, top of the foot pressure point is the only issue.

Other background is I play hockey and I like to put my boots on like a skate - very snug and secure for max control. I’m wondering if I’m buying a boot that’s too big based on comfort standing in the shop and tieing them so damn tight I’m self-inflicting the pain. Is the solution to get used to a smaller boot that’s not tied as tightly?

Looking a new dual-BOAs for an upcoming trip. Really don’t want to spend that $$$ on another pair of painful boots. Thanks a ton to anyone who can help.
 
#81 ·
Have been reading a lot of great advice on this forum, so throwing my situation out there for help: I have small hobbit feet: 25.5cm with max width 9.5cm about where the forefoot meets the mid-foot. Based on my research, that lines up with size 8 in regular width.
Hi Bill,

25.5 is Mondopoint 255 or size 7.5 US in snowboard boots. 9.5 is E width and would require a specific Wide boot. Before we get there, please post up images of your bare foot while taking the measurements below.


Please measure your foot using this method:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters). For width please place the inside (medial side) of your foot against a wall. Please then measure from the wall out to the widest point on the lateral (outside) of your foot.


STOKED!
 
#82 ·
Kenai whilst a well-fitting boot may remain comfortable for years, it will start to pack out quickly and I have found a distinct difference in less than a week power, control and response wise....with high-end well-fitted boots of all descriptions.
When it happens (not if) this WILL lead to slower transitions and less response in your turns with absolute certainty but people just adapt and think that is normal. It does not need to be is my point.
A well-fitted boot is crucial, just don't expect it to last for long in the same condition you purchased it as there will be a lag when you lean into a transition. A strap of any description you can actually lever fixes that response time. Don't believe me, try it and see.
 
#87 ·
Hello Wiredsport,

Appreciate the advice re measuring foot, I have bought enough shoes and made enough mistakes over the years so now go 100% on feel. What actually fits my foot, length, width and stiffness. Toes needing to touch the edge uncomfortably and then they will eventually get better after a lot of pain in just a dumb plan, going through pain to break a boot in is simply not necessary in my view.

I have yet to buy the boot I had researched and actually wanted though to be honest as I always end up with whatever boot fits my foot the best. But get a good boot fitter and give yourself lots of time to try on boots, both are worth making the effort to find I believe. Works for me anyway :)
 
#88 ·
Hi Myoko,

If you ever want to check your fit we can do that with ease. What you wrote about boots going south for you that quickly is quite common when riders are buying larger than Mondopoint. You may have it just right, but it is always worth the 2 minutes it takes to check. We are here if you would like to see. STOKED!
 
#89 ·
Must admit I have never heard of Mondopoint. I did the measurements and I am 27.5cm by 10.5cm and I always end up in a size US10 or size US10.5 boot as boots tend to vary with different manufacturers. I'd rather a 10 so I can use medium bindings. I'm pretty anal about making sure my toes are not in pain and my heel feels firm and I tend to get stiff boots without much give if possible.
 
#92 ·
That was my barefoot dimensions. 27.5cm by 10.5cm ....probably closer to 28cm. I see where 28 is US10 and 27.5 is US9.5.

Nahhh i don't subscribe to the buying too small as I have had boots that crushed my toes for months until I took them to someone that extended them perhaps less than .5cm. I actually discussed this with a guy today who fixed my back foot boot who is a professional boot fitter and he had the same opinion. Mind you, he also sold me the boot originally :) Depends on the boot also I imagine
 
#95 ·
Hi Myoko,

I see your issue. 10.5 cm wide is an EE width at 27.5 cm. This will never work well in "normal" width snowboard boots which are D width. Essentially your Boot is too long but not wide enough. This is extremely common. If you try on your correct Mondopoint length it Feels too short. This is because the toe box is not wide enough. The arc of the toebox is designed for D width feet so your EE width feet are too long at the outsize of the arc. Your fitter and boot fitter should have picked up on this. Sadly this gets missed all the time.

If you post up images of your barefoot length and width measurements being taken I can correct this for you. This problem always leads to boots becoming essentially useless after pack in. It becomes a very expensive habit to try to keep buying boots that are really only in usable condition for two weeks :).
 
#93 ·
@Myoko, Check out Angrysnowboarder.com for their "Boot Fitting 101" series.

What you're describing with the "toes" jammed uncomfortably into the end of the boot? That's what AS describes as a "Performance fit!"

That fit is not recommended for the majority of ppl buying boots. That type fit is only for the hard core shredder looking for a super responsive fit that won't pack out in 20 days. :shrug:

A regular fit is where the toes just touch the tip of the boot liner while standing up straight. With knees bent in a riding stance, your toes will/should pull back slightly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Winter_Lion
#96 ·
Hi Chomps,

This is part correct. A performance fit is when riders are going smaller than their Mondopoint range (which is .5 cm). When you are within the .5 cm of your Mondopoint range you are in your standard suggested fit. This is still how every snowboard boot is designed (it is actually the core principle of the Mondopoint standard). This has been our stock suggestion for 25 years. Firm pressure, not just touching is the key:


Your boots should be snug!
The most common complaint about boots is that they are too loose, not too tight. The junction between rider and board begins with the boot, as it is in the most direct contact with the rider. When fitting boots, use the following method: A. Slip into the boot. B. Kick your heel back against the ground several times to drive it back into the boot's heel pocket. C. Lace the boot tightly, as though you were going to ride. NOTE: This is where most sizing mistakes are made. A snowboard boot is shaped like an upside down "7". The back has a good degree of forward lean. Thus, when you drop into the boot, your heel may be resting up to an inch away from the back of the boot, and your toes may be jammed into the front of the boot. Until the boot is tightly laced, you will not know if it is a proper fit. D. Your toes should now have firm pressure against the front of the boot. As this is the crux of sizing, let's discuss firm pressure: When you flex your knee forward hard, the pressure should lighten, or cease, as your toes pull back. At no time should you feel numbness or lose circulation. Your toes will be in contact with the end of the boot, unlike in a properly fit street or athletic shoe (snowboard boots are designed to fit more snugly than your other shoes). When you have achieved this combination of firm pressure and no circulation loss, you have found the correct size!
 
#94 ·
!00% agree chomps. I think what people don't reflect on is at the top of the boot when it starts to pack out. When you lean into your turn your response time between transitions is much slower and many are unaware of it/put up with it when it can be fixed quite easily.
 
#99 ·
I am new snowboarder starts from this snow season, and I bought a the cheapest Decathlon boots recently. Found a problem, each time when i go snowboarding and put my feet in the boots for just 1 hour, my dogs barking so bad. I was thinking maybe I tied too much tight maybe? But even that tight when I slide down the hill(face towards mountain top) I feel my feet are about to get out from the boots. Shall I change a even smaller boots? Any suggestions will be highly appreciated
 
#100 ·
Please measure your feet using this method:



Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters). For width please place the inside (medial side) of your foot against a wall. Please then measure from the wall out to the widest point on the lateral (outside) of your foot
 
#102 ·
I'm litteraly getting crazy trying to find my size for snowboard boots.
I've read what wiredsport said and done it, bare foot against a wall : 28,8 cm/28,6cm and 10,3 width.
But i can't find a size chart with the width.
I'm also worrying with what i've red : to take 0,5 shorter than your mondo size.
For example : should i get a 28,5 in nitro ? I was in a shop and had for sure bad advice, i said i was 46 in nike and people gave me 45 1/3 in Nitro team wich is a 30.. I could still feel the end of the boots while standing, that's why i think that 2 size shorter would be very short.

I ask all of this because where i am i can't find any shop, and i'm so tired to travel to try 1 boot that i will order online some.



Elkhart
 
#103 ·
Hi Elkhart,

Your measurements above are Mondopoint 90 or size 11 US in snowboard boots. 10.3 cm is a "normal" D width at this size. You will not want to go smaller than your Mondopoint size but Mondopoint 300 is too large. Just touching the end of the boot is too large. You will want to have firm pressure (both toes and heels) into the compliant materials of the liner.

If the assistance provided has been helpful to you, your positive reviews on either of the sites below (or both) would be greatly appreciated. STOKED!




 
#105 ·
Hi All,
The reason for this sticky thread was to help folks figure out the boot thing. And as @neni notes all boots will soften and pack out...even performance fit boots will need tweaking.

Also figure to link for folks wanting to explore or go the AT/hardboot route. To which at this point I will likely never go back to soft boots again. But AT boot fitting is a similar process and will still pack out and will need tweaking. So below is abit of my journey to AT boots.

 
#106 ·
Some thoughts about packing out and old liners (copy paste from another thread)

Depending on where/what is packed out and has created space/looseness...will depend on what mod or bits of foam to add. Definitily support @WigMar thought of strategically adding foam. A few thoughts:

Perhaps if its just general looseness and your footbed/insoles are good, just put in a thin pice of plastic or plain flat converse tennis shoe foam under your current insole. This will take up a LOT of volume...a little goes a long way...like a 16th or an 8th of an inch. Its basically a "boot shim" that will soak/suck up perhaps 1/2 mondo size. Its a cheap and easy fix that is also easily reversible. I'd recommend maybe starting here first.

Often times its not the packing out of the lower boot/foot...because we like abit more room for da tootsies. But it is the heel pocket and we are getting heel lift...So you make the heel pocket deeper by adding a 1/2 butterfly and perhaps some j/c bars to get the heel held down And sometimes you need some foam bit on the outside of the tounge liner to help keep/push your foot/heel back in to that new pocket. Thus you keep some space for your toes and fore foot and instep/arch that will help with circulation issues...But will lock down your heel and cuff...which is where you get your leverage and power...especially if you are more of a freerider/carver style rider.

For re-heat moulding the liner, ime it will work...BUT it only works for a short time...a few days. It will re-expand the foam liner (intuition liners ime) but the liners will pack out again in short order...so why bother. Imho the since your liners are already moulded to your foot and are perhaps comfortable except for some volume issues, its better to pursue the 2 above options first.

edit: ...so if your toes are sore at the end of the day...I'd suspect that your foot is moving fore/aft and you are getting "toe bang"...So good insoles with good/proper arch support will help. And perhaps a bit thicker/more volume via the boot shim...And the foam bits on the tongue liner will all help...presuming that you are not having heel lift issues. If you are having heel lift issues...make a deeper heel pocket.

And another thing...if you have old liners that have all your tweaks to a performance fit slippers but your boots are trashed....just put your old liners in the new shells and you don't need to mess around with break-in and all that stuff. Anyway that is what I've done with my old 32 focus boas soft boots...new shells and old liners...works great. And its probably what I will at least try with my AT boots when the time comes. Thus the moral of the story...save your old liners. It iwll also act as a guide of what and how much to mod new liners...old liners are a valuable source of information for future boot fitting and tweaks.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top