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WTB: Waxing kit

3K views 33 replies 16 participants last post by  ridinbend 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I'm getting into waxing my own boards this year, and was browsing kits and supplies online - they get a little pricey. I don't mind shelling out the cash if I need to because it will end up paying for itself. But if anyone has a kit or any supplies they want to get off their hands, I definitely don't mind saving a little dough! Or if you just want to drop some knowledge about waxing and affordable yet still quality items I should be looking for. Looking for an all-temp wax since I experience a range of temps over the season here in the mid-atlantic. Thanks for any advice/help!
 
#3 ·
If you're not gonna take it on travels (air), then I'd just buy the cheapest clothes iron you can find!!!!! (Just don't dial the temp up any higher than 140c, and don't put water in it) Do Not use Steam Function!!!!!

All Temp Flouro is the best, I use either OneBallJay X-Wax, or SWIX FX, or SWIX Blue Flouro All temp!!!!!

Triangle scraper (Burton make a good one)!!!!!

Scotchbrite Pads to buff!!!!!
 
#5 · (Edited)
After I bought one I read somewhere the those kits are little bags of shiny junk that are are waste of money and I agree.

Best info I know of is here.

Tuning - The Carver's Almanac

Many good videos on YouTube.

To get started you need bulk wax, a plastic scraper, a metal brush, optionally a plastic brush, green scrubby pads, an iron, and a cold beer or three.

The only thing of any real value in the kit I bought was the iron (and maybe the carry bag). I prefer a ski iron vs home iron but if cost is an issue get a regular iron used.
 
#6 ·
As per above, you only need 4 items to get started:

Wax; I am a huge fan of Dominator Zoom Universal

Scraper: Any plastic scraper will do

Green Scotch Brite Pad. Grab a NEW one from under the kitchen sink

Iron: Make your life easy. If you spend money on nothing get a low cost ski iron, ( ie: Toko T8, don't pay any more than $60.00 for it ) you'll be happy for it in the long run.

You should be able to score all of the above for under $100.00 and you'll never buy another iron. You'll be set for a season of being the fastest board on the hill.
 
#13 ·
Ah great info everyone! When I was shown how to wax a board last season, they guy told me to only get an iron specifically for waxing boards/skis - "don't use the ones with holes!" So you can use the ones with holes, just not on steam function. That helps things a bit! Thanks for the help! :)
 
#14 ·
When it comes to waxing, you seriously only need some cheapo Walmart iron. Bought mine (which was ~$10) with 6 oz. of wax. If wax looks "pricey", it really isn't. I usually use around .5 oz of wax per snowboard. A simple base cleaner, a triangle scraper by Burton, a nylon brush (you can also get that at Walmart), and who doesn't have microfiber clothes?

(If you really don't, then your nearest electronics store most likely has a pack of three for around $5)

The "you need a waxing iron to wax snowboards" thing, to me, is a myth. Wax never got clogged in the iron holes, used it a ton for two seasons. Basically saved 40 dollars just getting that iron. :D

In the end, it's your money, your purchase. We are here just to give you ideas.

P.S. you can also go try your luck on a thrift store...girlfriend got hers for $0.43...


Also, check this website out The House – Outdoor Gear, Outerwear & Bikes - Save up to 70% they always got some crazy sale going on
 
#15 ·
The issue with a clothes iron (which is what I use btw) is consistency of temp. The heat control is not as precise as a wax iron. As long as someone isn't impatient and cranking it up to 11, it's not a big deal. :shrug:
 
#19 ·
Amazon has one for $40 if use have prime. Up until recently I've always used a clothes and never had an issue. I bought a swix like 5 years ago for like $50 and while I won't say it does better, it is a probably unmeasurable bit easier as the shape is a little better suited being rectangular, no holes, etc.

As far as how hot is too hot, if it's smoking up a storm, too hot. A little whisping is fine, a continual stream turn it down until it stops.
 
#22 ·
A good startin point for temp is about 120c!!!!!

The Smoke you see when it's too hit is the good stuff that's burnin, so while it won't hurt ya board, it won't be as fast!!!!!

The smoke will affect you however!!!!! Always wax in a well ventilated area (crucial when usin Flouronated Waxes), and even better to invest in a mask that's rated for fumes!!!!! They're super toxic!!!!!

Other tips/pointers!!!!!

Have the board in a warm/dry place for a while before ya wax!!!!! Never wax a cold/wet board!!!!! For the same reason why ya dont use water/steam when ya iron, steam will trash the base!!!!!

When the base looks pretty dirty, a citrus based cleaner as was posted over the page is the best way to get it perfect for a new deep wax!!!!! After the base cleaner, wash it clean with a mild detergent and warm water, then flush off with clean water!!!!! Then put the board in a warm/dry/dust free place until it drys completely!!!!! (That water/steam dealio again)

Then wax away with ya favourite lube!!!!!

Scrape and buff into a bag/box, and dispose of accordingly!!!!! Try and keep the fine particles of scrape/buff wax from gettin all over ya gear as these will end up as dirty bits on ya next wax job!!!!!

Get an edge tool and a gummy stone too, as basic edge maintenance is easy, and a good habit to have before ya wax!!!!!
 
#24 ·
When the base looks pretty dirty, a citrus based cleaner as was posted over the page is the best way to get it perfect for a new deep wax!!!!! After the base cleaner, wash it clean with a mild detergent and warm water, then flush off with clean water!!!!! Then put the board in a warm/dry/dust free place until it drys completely!!!!! (That water/steam dealio again)
Not looking for a pissing match here, just wanting to offer up an alternative.

Give the citrus cleaner a miss and simply hot scrape; put down a layer of wax and then scrape it off while it is still warm. Do not let it cool down.

Rational: cleaners pull all the wax out of your base. The whole point of waxing is to get wax into every nook and cranny of your base. A hot scrape will pull all of the dirt and grime out of the board and still leave wax behind.

Not saying there is not a place for cleaners, spot cleaning pine sap for example, but to do the whole board is in mho, overkill to the extreme. You also avoid all the water & soap & rinse & wait till dry, & can I wax my board yet, I'd like to get on the hill sometime today.

Hot scrape and wax away, right away. What could be better?
 
#26 ·
My waxing routine, beet not mentioned :D

1. clean base with white spirit.
2. clean all the residue with dry towel
3. drip some wax on the base, not to much. 0.3 oz is enough for me. And as long as I have different temp. wax I put colder temperature wax on edges.
4. iron the board, so wax distributes on whole base. I take my time and do it 3 times full lenght of the board.
5. leave the board for half an hour or more to cool down
6. crape the wax off.
7. then I use two different structure pads
8. finish polishing with cork.

Last year I had less tools so 7 and 8 was not included and I was just fine. I simply found a handy waxing kit for good price and it had included 6 different structure pads, cork, so why not to use them, if not in a hurry. Bought the kit, because it had edge sharpener, some p-tex candles and sticks, metal scraper, cork.
 
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