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11-22-2008, 10:38 PM
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#151 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 101
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don't stress about putting too much the first time. you're probably going to put on too much anyway but you'll get better at gauging how much to use the more you do it.
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11-23-2008, 09:11 AM
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#152 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Belgium
Posts: 481
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did the wax job , i did a reasonable job 
the only problem is that i kinda forgot to turn of the iron and burned my table.
also their is wax all over the floure... my roommate is gonna kill me
__________________
No Style, No Glory
"burton the hero board"
"burton cartel est binding"
"burton moto boot"
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11-23-2008, 10:51 AM
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#153 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Richville
Posts: 290
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That poor floor
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12-07-2008, 10:57 AM
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#154 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Staten island, NY
Posts: 356
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is this a good base cleaner?
Simple green.... Simple Green
is it safe to use?
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12-08-2008, 02:38 PM
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#155 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottland
So I tried something new last night, and it turned out to be a neat little trick. Makes scrapping wax 10x easier, and probably helps clean your board some too.
After you iron your wax into your board, let it sit the normal time you would before you start to scrap (20-30min, whatever you do). Then right before you scrap, run your iron over the whole board one more time to heat the wax back up. The first iron/cooling session should have allowed the base to soak up all the wax it was going to, and scrapping warm waxing is 100x easier than hard cool wax. Plus i've heard warm scrapping helps clean the base, but I don't know about that
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So I realize that this is a pretty old post, but just wanted to say that it sounds like you're hot waxing your board, which is actually a method to REMOVE wax (as opposed to a base cleaner). Scrape the wax cold.
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12-08-2008, 04:06 PM
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#156 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brockton Lift, Mount Seymour, North Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,108
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Actually just running the iron over 1 or 2 times will only warm up the excess wax. Not enough heat will be applied to open up the p-tex.
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12-08-2008, 09:54 PM
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#157 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 29
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I read that its a good idea to take some colder temp wax (I usually put all-temp on my board) and rub it / drip it along the edges before you iron the board to help protect them more from harsher snow.
Since I will be riding a lot of man made snow and its pretty cold around here, would that be a good idea to prevent edge burn?
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12-09-2008, 01:39 PM
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#158 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hood River-The Gorge-Oregon. "Splunge"
Posts: 529
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man made snow has sharp edges and will burn the base. I would suggest using a combination of of diff temp waxes on your base. If you are using graphite, rub it on fists, never drip on graphite!! rub on, then iron in.
I use a combo of grahpite,all temp, and cold...sometimes if it is wet, I use fluorocarbon all temp overlays for wet Pac NW conditions. If you need more info let me know.
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12-17-2008, 10:29 PM
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#159 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 33
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if i have a new board and ride about half normal runs and half freestyle, would I need to do anyhting else to my board besides hot wax. Would i have to do anything with the edges. I have heardof edges coming really sharp but they seam pretty smooth. Any help is apprecieated.
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12-18-2008, 07:09 AM
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#160 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brockton Lift, Mount Seymour, North Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,108
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Not really, unless you know what you're doing... in which case you wouldn't be asking anyways.
If you want, you can take a ceramic stone or any other fine grit polishing stone and detune the contact points.
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