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Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 37
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Working at a shop that requires me to constantly fit boots correctly, I went into this thread with unfortunately low expectations. But to my surprise, this list is dead on to nearly every common recommendation I make and am told to make. You also chose a very nice boot, the dialogues, from back a couple years ago, so I applaud you for the effort in making your choice. Boots are the number one most important purchase for snowboard equipment, and although are easier to fit then ski boots, the time spent trying on boots is so important. Each manufacture expects about an hour for boot fitting per customer, and on top of that 30 minutes for heat molding if your boots permit and you have the interest before you go on the mountain. So manage your time wisely.
A few thing I would add would first be adding onto the BOA. The laces to boa are actually Kevlar, and made so on purpose so if a snowboard edge happens to slide over your boots, the laces won't easily tear. In fact, the companies who use BOA ensure that in BOA's 8 or 9 year life span, they have had few to no laces breaking. On top of that, the hardware inside the dial occasionally breaks, but is an easy fix at nearly every shop at every mountain. So if your interest is BOA, then be worry free on them breaking. However, I do not personally recommend any standard 1 piece BOA on your boots. The main problem with these boots is since it is a twist tighten from the top, the tension doesn't reach the bottom as well. Therefor you're more likely going to get heal lift and/or blisters from the loose toe box. The other downside to BOA is that you're unable to customize how you want it to fit. Your boots become just a one way tighten with no option to tighten in spots you would like tighter, something standard laces and Salomon's system allows you to do. Generally, one dial BOA is an OK purchase for the average snowboarder, and is convenient. But if you are the guy that wants to get complete performance out of a boot, these BOA boots may leave you wishing you had more. On the other hand, two dial BOA are set up so the top is tightened by the dial in the center, and the bottom laces are independently tightened by the dial on the side. This solves the problem of the one dial BOA but these boots tend to be heavier and expensive, and considering these two problems, there are more cost-effective boots out there.
You also mentioned heel shims, or j-bars, or however else you want to categorize them. The problem here isn't necessarily how they work, but that you need to use them in your boot to begin with. When fitting a boot, you should try on multiple boots so you find the company that best fits your foot. You may find yourself using Burton's j-bars to prevent heel lift, but at this point you should question why you bought the Burton boots in the first place. Name recognition maybe? That's a pretty common trend you should try to stay away from.
Being bias free and open-minded while shopping will get you a better fit. Try not to be entirely concerned about brand, and definitely not the style or graphic of the boot. If you're the person that loves matching or just buying equipment off looks, the boots are the one item people will probably never see, if they notice anything on you at all. Go off feel and comfort.
On top of the j-bar issue, a better option for fitting would be to invest in a custom orthodic/insole. Most insoles in your boots are flat, and not much better then carpet. Especially with cheaper boots, most of the time they will provide no arch support whatever. I recommend Superfeet, making sure you get someone to help you decide on the right color for you're arch. There are green's, blue's, orange's, berry's, blacks, etc. There are other companies out there, for example A-Line, but in my experience Superfeet are the most consistent on fixing arch issues. Superfeet will also have benefiting side effects such as shock absorption, and a raised platform. Superfeet's main attribute is correcting your arch, putting it back in it's natural position. This allows you to transfer you're energy faster by allowing your foot to roll on it's arch, as opposed to shifting on a flat platform. They retail at $40 for the two; custom superfeet are $100. These are actually more recommended for their purpose to skiers, but the benefits equally effect snowboarders. You'll commonly find Superfeet at any shoe store.
Most boots are heat moldable or made for form fitting. I recommend this when you buy your boots. Considering your point of boots expanding a half size to a size, this is generally contributed to your boots packing out. A major factor in your boots doing this is because the type of liner provided. Your boots are meant to pack out, and form around your foot. Keep in mind when you buy boots at a store, they will be the tightest they will ever feel. Asking someone to heat mold them for you, which is usually a free service, is recommended, so when you first get on the mountain your boots are more properly packed out and fitted around your foot. Try to NOT wear them for a few trips, then go in and get them heat molded. The associate may not let you or probably not like you if he has to because it will definitely smell horrible. Certain boots, like Salomon's fusion line are actually not meant for heat molding because of the design of the liner. If you purchase these boots, make sure you are informed before heat molding. You could ruin the purpose of fusion liner.
When you're sizing your feet, or having someone size them for you, make sure you size both feet. Most people have different size feet, and this can effect the way one side will fit compared to the other. Keeping this in mind, if the boot hurts one foot, make sure it doesn't work for the other foot as well. This may be that you just got the boot to small of a size for that foot. Seeming you can't get boots at two different sizes when purchasing, unfortunately you have to go with the bigger boot. So make sure the smaller foot isn't too loose, because otherwise you will get blisters.
Furthering your point on the sizing, that is correct that most people need to jump down a size from their street shoes. The best term to describe boot fitting is snug. If you buy your boots to big, you may get black toes. A lot of customers come in wondering why, and their first response is that their boots are too small. That usually isn't the case. Usually, they buy their boots to big, and the entire day your toes are constantly slamming into the front of your boot. Avoid this by just getting the right fitting boot and not just saying I'm a 12 because the Vans I always wear are a 12. The Mondo Point size, which is that sizing chart you'll usually get sized from, is very subjective to American sizes. On top of that, most companies will translate the two sizing charts differently. In other words, a 10 (28.0 in Mondo Point) in Burton, may not be a 10 in Salomon. Just some good things to keep in mind when sizing your foot.
When you're trying your boots on, make sure you size them based on how you will be standing when riding - that is bending your knees, and leaning forwards. If you size your boots based on when your standing straight up, or worse yet, sitting down, your boots most likely will fit differently when it's most important - when you're riding. The point of standing up when trying on boots is because when you put pressure on your arch, they will collapse, causing your foot to expand in length and width. The same goes for when you are sizing your feet with a scale.
Recommendations:
For lacing systems, I recommend: Salomon (although their more expensive boots have reinforced lacing pieces that are stronger preventing them from popping off if you pull to hard. so in other words, if you can afford more expensive Salomon boots, do it.), standard laces (a lot of pro's stick with standard laces and you can customize them to fit tighter or looser in place a lot more then other lacing systems can).
I don't recommend: Burton's quick lace (similar to the BOA problem, you can't get the tension you want in most areas), cheap boots in general (boots lower in the line of even the most experienced boot makers, ie Salomon, will not provide the best results. I recommend spending money on boots. )
For liners, I recommend: Salomon's Fusion (this liner is meant to form around you're foot everytime you step into it, as opposed to having one custom mold you made at the shop. I wear these boots and can personally vouch for how well the perform), Burton's imprint 3 liner (generally really comfortable), buying boots from companies that have been making boots forever (companies that have been in the business of making ski boots since skiing started, generally have things pretty well figured out and will provide outstanding snowboarding boots compared to standard snowboarding companies.)
I don't recommend: heavy boots (you'll be wasting a lot of energy just moving your feet. You're riding should be effortless and you're boots should not hold you back), most 32 boots (while the liner is OK, like RIDE and K2 intuition liners, the boots are generally huge, featuring a large toe box, and wide heel cup. If there was ever a time to use j-bar's it would be in 32 boots. I just recommend avoiding 32 in general for boots. My personal experience with my first boot, 32 Prion, is complete dissatisfaction. These boots actually motivated me to get the job I have at Sport Chalet to learn more about these things so I can ride better.)
I always recommend custom insoles. You need them for running shoes; you need them for Snowboarding boots.
Everything else I tell customers, that I can think of for now, you mentioned correctly. These are great tips for buying and everyone should take them serious. Most importantly, have fun and have good times!
Last edited by ribbed : 12-21-2008 at 01:31 AM.
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