 |
|
09-17-2007, 02:04 PM
|
#11 (permalink)
|
|
-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 121
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Snowolf
Yeah, I was refering to the base bevel. I like to maintain a 90 degree edge so on a 2 degree base bevel, I then maintain an 88 degree edge bevel That gives me a good sharp edge for ice, while having a forgiving base bevel.
|
I do my edges this way too and find that it works no matter what type of riding I feel like doing at the time.
__________________
 
|
|
|
|
Sponsored Links
|
Advertisement
|
|
09-17-2007, 03:13 PM
|
#12 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 127
|
Fuck it, this shit is to confusing. I've ridden park and rails fine for 2 years without a bevel, and with the risk of destroying my edges (even if i take it to a shop and it turns out I dont want it beveled) it just doesnt seem worth it. Plus, living on the Ice Coast I really do need some serious edges.
|
|
|
09-17-2007, 04:34 PM
|
#13 (permalink)
|
|
Oh god...NO!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 803
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by NJ SHREDDER 28
Fuck it, this shit is to confusing. I've ridden park and rails fine for 2 years without a bevel, and with the risk of destroying my edges (even if i take it to a shop and it turns out I dont want it beveled) it just doesnt seem worth it. Plus, living on the Ice Coast I really do need some serious edges.
|
 yeah it does seem fucked BUT once you have your specs dialed in you will probably do it to all your rides. The only thing I would be worried about is not wrecking your edges but wrecking your teeth when a sharp edge hits a small chunk of steel like welding slag or a wrinkle in the metal 
__________________
STICK OPPOSITION MOVEMENT
If you want to act 'serious',
then become a skier!
|
|
|
09-17-2007, 05:00 PM
|
#14 (permalink)
|
|
AASI Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Mt. Hood Oregon
Posts: 3,889
|
|
|
|
09-17-2007, 05:18 PM
|
#15 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 127
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Slaughterhouse
 yeah it does seem fucked BUT once you have your specs dialed in you will probably do it to all your rides. The only thing I would be worried about is not wrecking your edges but wrecking your teeth when a sharp edge hits a small chunk of steel like welding slag or a wrinkle in the metal 
|
but the thing is, ive never had a bevel befoer in my life. I dont know how much bevel I will want or if I will want one at all. Its not worth risking the edges on my brand-new-never-before-ridden board.
|
|
|
09-18-2007, 10:33 AM
|
#16 (permalink)
|
|
Oh god...NO!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 803
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by NJ SHREDDER 28
but the thing is, ive never had a bevel befoer in my life. I dont know how much bevel I will want or if I will want one at all. Its not worth risking the edges on my brand-new-never-before-ridden board.
|
No doubt, that is a dilemma! If you have an old board kicking around or if you can find an old used board for stupid cheap try using that instead as your park board. That way you can trash the board, edges and all without fucking up your new board. Everyone has their own dialed in specs tuned to their riding. Factory edges can get you by quite well as you can already attest to, and it is sort of like driving a new Honda off the lot. Beveling is like taking that Honda and tweaking the suspension to fine tune it to your own needs. If you are going to experiment with beveling follow these rules: 1) If you are beveling a new board take it to a REPUTABLE shop and have them use their machines to grind the edge (after you can always maintain it with an edging tool) 2)Take the edge off in 1/2 degree increments at a time and then ride the board for a while and see how it feels; then you can take a little more off if you are still not satisfied. 3)Any experimenting should be done on a trash board, so if you don't like the result, it's all good. You can still bevel the edge on that board and begin making your own quiver, using that as a park or street board.
__________________
STICK OPPOSITION MOVEMENT
If you want to act 'serious',
then become a skier!
|
|
|
10-08-2008, 05:38 PM
|
#17 (permalink)
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 16
|
Is everybody saying that you should not do your base Bevel yourself ?(or is this just for a brand new board ?)
All the Faq’s and vids, I have watched put a few layers of tape on the file to do the base and use a guide for the side edge ?
I was thinking about getting a base file guide 1” but seems a lot of people use the “few layers of tape” way
What’s everybody’s thoughts on this ?
How often should you do your edges ?
Do you do the Base and side at the same time?
or does one require more then the other?
Last edited by Mushi : 10-08-2008 at 05:51 PM.
|
|
|
10-08-2008, 08:45 PM
|
#18 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hood River-The Gorge-Oregon. "Splunge"
Posts: 435
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ SHREDDER 28
but the thing is, ive never had a bevel befoer in my life. I dont know how much bevel I will want or if I will want one at all. Its not worth risking the edges on my brand-new-never-before-ridden board.
|
You don't have to worry about losing your edge or damaging your new board unless say you bevel you base edge 2 or 3 degrees and then decide to go back to a one degree base bevel if you go back and forth several times yep, you will eat into your edges...if you bevel, or have a shop bevel your Jibstick base edge at 3 degrees and leave it that way and bevel it that way everytime no worrie.
A tehnique shops (and I use) is to take a sharpy magic marker on the full length of the edges..When you bevel you are only beveling the EDGE of the Edge..;Capiche ?? no worries mate.
Beveling your base edge more than one degree just makes your board less grabby, hooky what ever you want to call. This is most beneficail for park rat jbbing boards. I once knew a cat who beveled his base edges 3 degrees and the dulled the entire edge with a file and gummy stone...of course, the board was only used to Jib. one other note if you use the Sharpie technique, you can see what you are doing and how much EDGE you are removing..always use a file judiciously and carefully.
Last edited by oneplankawanka : 10-08-2008 at 08:55 PM.
|
|
|
10-08-2008, 08:57 PM
|
#19 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 448
|
ask a shop for a 2 degree Square edge bevel. That will ensure that they dont just bevel the bottom, but also the side.
2 degrees will do you fine for general park and freeriding.
Course the best answer would be to get magne, you can round that sh!t off and still shred ice...but thats like $450 verses like $16 for and edge job
And the ghetto answer is to take a file to the middle 5-6 inches of your board and dull it up. Not great if you dont mean it to be a rail board, but board slides is really the trick you worry about hurting yourself on if you catch edge on a rail, tail or noselide will just make you spin off the rail. And since you'll be leaving the area under and around your bindings, primary source of control, sharp, you can still turn pretty good. Thats actually what I do to my park boards, since most pressure is under your bindings, I keep all under and about 2 inches outside my bindings at 0*/0* so I can still turn on sh!tty park snow but don't worry about really catching edges. Only take a grinder to a deck that you use exclusively for urban jibbing. Course I also do the standard tip tail detune.
__________________
SHRALP IT!!!
|
|
|
10-09-2008, 10:53 AM
|
#20 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 245
|
I just got an 09 Ride Kink, whick comes with a 3 degree bevel. Is it safe to say to leave it alone and dont bevel it any further? the only thing I did to it was I used the stone and yently rubbed it down my edges. 
|
|
|
 |
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|