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Thread: Ptex on base... when to use??? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-23-2014 11:21 AM
larrytbull
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyRVA View Post
No shit




This is a good idea.

I also read using a glue gun would work. Anyone ever tried that?
glue gun needs to be hot enough to melt the ptex (350 F or higher) there is a product called ski mender which is a high temp glue gun, they make it as cheap as $60 but it has limitations, base needs to be hot before fix, and going from clear to black and back again is sketchy, need to stay with clear or black
01-23-2014 11:08 AM
LuckyRVA
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjason View Post
well yea cuz you are burning it.
No shit


Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjason View Post
better way to do it would be using a heat gun just hot enough to melt it but not setting it on fire.
This is a good idea.

I also read using a glue gun would work. Anyone ever tried that?
01-23-2014 10:51 AM
speedjason
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyRVA View Post
I'm just finding this out myself. I held the candle as close to my board as possible but it still came out black (burned).
well yea cuz you are burning it.
better way to do it would be using a heat gun just hot enough to melt it but not setting it on fire.
01-23-2014 10:21 AM
LuckyRVA
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmccright View Post
Only time I ptex is when I get a core shot. Also white ptex looks like crap if you do it yourself.
I'm just finding this out myself. I held the candle as close to my board as possible but it still came out black (burned).
01-23-2014 09:35 AM
BoardChitless
Quote:
Originally Posted by Banana12 View Post
I recently came to the same idea of using could wax for a moderate size gouge in my board. I figured since cold wax is "harder" it may last longer in the gouge, but have no real idea if it will make a difference or not over using my all-temp. I just filled it with cold wax and then use whatever temp is suitable for the conditions over it.

Mostly I like that my cold wax is red so its easy to spot when it has come out of the gouge. I all ready have 3 different temp waxes so I'm not really losing anything if it doesn't work any better than just filling it with whatever wax I'm using for the whole board.
Glad you made me feel like there was some logic to my post. I just ordered the cold temp BlueBird Wax the other week, and it's yellow, so may indeed be maintaining my board like you. This one divot makes me want to use Ptex tho..
01-23-2014 09:33 AM
jdmccright Only time I ptex is when I get a core shot. Also white ptex looks like crap if you do it yourself.
01-23-2014 09:23 AM
Banana12 I recently came to the same idea of using could wax for a moderate size gouge in my board. I figured since cold wax is "harder" it may last longer in the gouge, but have no real idea if it will make a difference or not over using my all-temp. I just filled it with cold wax and then use whatever temp is suitable for the conditions over it.

Mostly I like that my cold wax is red so its easy to spot when it has come out of the gouge. I all ready have 3 different temp waxes so I'm not really losing anything if it doesn't work any better than just filling it with whatever wax I'm using for the whole board.
01-23-2014 09:23 AM
BoardChitless Really not trying to get this stone grinded anytime soon. Shops can easily destroy Bataleon bases and I've had too many shops do a small chitty wax job... It's hit or miss at most resorts I've found, so I like to do my own like most others. Trust some shops with the right peeps. The TBT shape from Bataleon is a nightmare for most grinders, so I am looking to take care of this board on my own 99% of the time.

Maybe get a shop to sharpen it a couple times a season... That's it.

My questioning about cold waxes utility is can that work better for minor scratches than all temp wax to reduce the drag or sustain it better... a buddy has done this, and told me it's the way to go before getting legit shop repair. So, I am wondering if anyone has done something similar to counter some base scuffs.

I've rode a '97 Timeless for 15+ years with a ton of PTex/whatever & base replenishments, and my bottom was destroyed nonetheless... And I just kept on getting slower and slower till I had to give in for a new sled last year - last thing I'm looking for is to be slowed down by some minor chit.
01-23-2014 12:39 AM
MarshallV82 If it's really deep I'll PTEX it or melt something in there. Castle Mtn has been pretty rough on my Drifter. It looks like it's 100 days old already!

Looked at your pictures, thats just normal. Just ride it.
01-23-2014 12:01 AM
speedjason
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoardChitless View Post
Appreciate that quick shout back. Should I be using a harder/cold temp wax by the gashes closer to the edges? I have about 4 other decent scuffs, besides the 3 I showed. Know they're nothing crazy, but is there any utility to try to use a harder wax per se, or is there no difference really than just an all-temp wax for minor scratches and such?
I dont think wax will do anything to protect your base from getting hit by sharp object but keeping it waxed do help soften the blow.
worst case when your base is totally scratched up you can take it to a shop and have them stone grind it and it will be good as new.
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