|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-02-2012 08:11 AM|
Originally Posted by dreampow View Post
Its significantly softer in the tail although still fairly stiff maybe a 6.5 out of 10 on my scale.
I am expecting a lot more float too.
|07-01-2012 09:16 AM|
[QUOTE=dreampow;509200]This board is now a (DIY) swallowtail so it should ride differently next year, but its a carving beast. Just a pleasure to carve.QUOTE]
im very intrigued by this! i would love to see how it came out and if you notice any differences in lateral and torsional flex by modding it this way.. what did you do to the edges and how did you seal up the ends? please post a picture!
|07-01-2012 06:37 AM|
Thanks for the in depth answer.
My freeride board is a Volkl zenit and it has a slight setback, significantly softer nose than tail and the side cut is more pronounced towards the tail and shallower at the front.
This board is now a (DIY) swallowtail so it should ride differently next year, but its a carving beast. Just a pleasure to carve.
On the proto it takes better technique, fore aft movement and effort, but it will still carve very well. Not quite as well as a directional board but not far off IMO.
I do feel like being centered on the proto helps me get forward and use the front foot more in powder, but thats probably the rocker camber profile as much as anything else. Also no doubt it helps riding switch.
With all the nuances and different strengths of different designs I can see myself slowly building up a big quiver.
|06-22-2012 08:24 PM|
Sure I have, all the boards I owned before the proto were directional twins. I liked them a lot but I am enjoying the twin proto especially for switch.
Here is me on my Volkl (directional twin)
As long as you slide the board forward to get your weight over the tail you can still carve really well on a proto.
My question (to Snowolf mainly) was that the directional twin gives an advantage for getting weight over the tail when in a carve, but surely that means they are at a slight (albeit minimal) disadvantage when getting your weight over your front foot when changing edges and setting the new edge.
Just nitpicking really as there is no powder to ride.
|06-22-2012 09:58 AM|
Dreampow, you've never ridden a directional twin? An SL / TRS / Coda for example? Most of the boards out there, not designed for the park, are directional twins or flat out directional.
I just bought a Heritage for this year, replacing my Optmistic for big mountain riding. It makes a GIANT difference over a twin. As much fun as I had on my Rice, when I was in Revelstoke this last year (I ride the 157 blunted), in that 2 foot powder, you go over the handle bars quite a bit by accident, just get slightly lazy with your back foot. While I didn't like the BSOD because of the lack of dampening in the chop, the board made miles difference on those steep bowls and shoots (ESPECIALLY at Kicking Horse). Because of the setback, it really takes some effort to sink the nose, and got over the handle bars.
When I am riding deeper powder, or the steeps (45-50 degree pitches), I 100% prefer a directional board like a Heritage. BTW, was down to a Heritage vs. Billy Goat, and ended up selecting the Heritage. Very excited to try it out. Have ridden a 155 which was too short for me, so this 158 should be perfect.
|06-22-2012 07:27 AM|
Originally Posted by Daggs View Post
|06-22-2012 06:51 AM|
|Daggs||Ok. I'm getting the 154. I found a website that sells the 2013 for prime price. And they have a 30 day return policy in case they screw me. Lol.|
|06-22-2012 01:00 AM|
Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
As I understand it (and could well be wrong) before changing edges and initiating the next turn you need to shift your weight forward again and get it a little more over the front foot.
Does that mean that for changing edges and initiating turns, a true twin makes it easier to get your weight forward since your front foot is already a few centimeters further forward as compared to a directional twin with a setback?
Just wondering about such things as there is no powder in sight for 5 more months here.
|06-22-2012 12:45 AM|
Originally Posted by eclipse1018 View Post
|06-22-2012 12:41 AM|
Thats because the EVO is a park board. The proto can do park but its all mountain freestyle so they recommend a little bigger.
I agree the 152 is doable, but the only reason to get it IMO is if you plan to mainly ride park and thats clearly not the case.
The 154 is better for all mountain riding and powder and importantly gives some room for growth (putting on weight) in the next few years.
As always with board length preference is huge, but in this case since your a beginner the smart move is to go with the best all round length rather than the 152 which will be more park oriented.
Just my opinion.
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