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Thread: Could you help a beginner out? I'm looking for a board that I won't outgrow. Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-02-2012 08:11 AM
dreampow [QUOTE=eclipse1018;509205]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreampow View Post
This board is now a (DIY) swallowtail so it should ride differently next year, but its a carving beast. Just a pleasure to carve.QUOTE]

im very intrigued by this! i would love to see how it came out and if you notice any differences in lateral and torsional flex by modding it this way.. what did you do to the edges and how did you seal up the ends? please post a picture!
All the info is here although you will have to wait until winter to find out how it rides.

Its significantly softer in the tail although still fairly stiff maybe a 6.5 out of 10 on my scale.

I am expecting a lot more float too.

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boa...-my-volkl.html
07-01-2012 09:16 AM
eclipse1018 [QUOTE=dreampow;509200]This board is now a (DIY) swallowtail so it should ride differently next year, but its a carving beast. Just a pleasure to carve.QUOTE]

im very intrigued by this! i would love to see how it came out and if you notice any differences in lateral and torsional flex by modding it this way.. what did you do to the edges and how did you seal up the ends? please post a picture!
07-01-2012 06:37 AM
dreampow Thanks for the in depth answer.

My freeride board is a Volkl zenit and it has a slight setback, significantly softer nose than tail and the side cut is more pronounced towards the tail and shallower at the front.

This board is now a (DIY) swallowtail so it should ride differently next year, but its a carving beast. Just a pleasure to carve.

On the proto it takes better technique, fore aft movement and effort, but it will still carve very well. Not quite as well as a directional board but not far off IMO.

I do feel like being centered on the proto helps me get forward and use the front foot more in powder, but thats probably the rocker camber profile as much as anything else. Also no doubt it helps riding switch.

With all the nuances and different strengths of different designs I can see myself slowly building up a big quiver.
06-22-2012 08:24 PM
dreampow Sure I have, all the boards I owned before the proto were directional twins. I liked them a lot but I am enjoying the twin proto especially for switch.

Here is me on my Volkl (directional twin)



As long as you slide the board forward to get your weight over the tail you can still carve really well on a proto.

My question (to Snowolf mainly) was that the directional twin gives an advantage for getting weight over the tail when in a carve, but surely that means they are at a slight (albeit minimal) disadvantage when getting your weight over your front foot when changing edges and setting the new edge.

Just nitpicking really as there is no powder to ride.
06-22-2012 09:58 AM
Nolefan2011 Dreampow, you've never ridden a directional twin? An SL / TRS / Coda for example? Most of the boards out there, not designed for the park, are directional twins or flat out directional.

I just bought a Heritage for this year, replacing my Optmistic for big mountain riding. It makes a GIANT difference over a twin. As much fun as I had on my Rice, when I was in Revelstoke this last year (I ride the 157 blunted), in that 2 foot powder, you go over the handle bars quite a bit by accident, just get slightly lazy with your back foot. While I didn't like the BSOD because of the lack of dampening in the chop, the board made miles difference on those steep bowls and shoots (ESPECIALLY at Kicking Horse). Because of the setback, it really takes some effort to sink the nose, and got over the handle bars.

When I am riding deeper powder, or the steeps (45-50 degree pitches), I 100% prefer a directional board like a Heritage. BTW, was down to a Heritage vs. Billy Goat, and ended up selecting the Heritage. Very excited to try it out. Have ridden a 155 which was too short for me, so this 158 should be perfect.
06-22-2012 07:27 AM
hktrdr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daggs View Post
Ok. I'm getting the 154. I found a website that sells the 2013 for prime price. And they have a 30 day return policy in case they screw me. Lol.
Which website are you buying from?
06-22-2012 06:51 AM
Daggs Ok. I'm getting the 154. I found a website that sells the 2013 for prime price. And they have a 30 day return policy in case they screw me. Lol.
06-22-2012 01:00 AM
dreampow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
For true carving which is the peak of free ride skill, a directional board is better than even a directional twin because it`s progressive side cut to enter turns more slowly with better control and the aft position of the rider allows the board to hold its edge through the bottom of the turn as a result of a little more weight on the tail. Fore-aft movements as we have discussed a lot in the instructors section allow a rider to carve any board very well but a directional board with a set back makes this even easier.

A directional twin is kind of the best of both worlds. The flex pattern and side cut are symmetrical so it rides switch extremely well but has a slightly setback stance to allow for better edge hold through the bottom of the turn when ridden directionally.
Just wondering about this, a directional board with a set back will be better in the second half of the carve as it automatically has more weight on the tail holding it steady.

As I understand it (and could well be wrong) before changing edges and initiating the next turn you need to shift your weight forward again and get it a little more over the front foot.

Does that mean that for changing edges and initiating turns, a true twin makes it easier to get your weight forward since your front foot is already a few centimeters further forward as compared to a directional twin with a setback?

Just wondering about such things as there is no powder in sight for 5 more months here.
06-22-2012 12:45 AM
jdang307
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipse1018 View Post
No.. im 160lbs on my 150evo at the the top of the scale on the neversummer weight chart and im perfectly good on it.. the 154 will have a less than notible change to its turning radius and weight/ swing weight/ all the boards are superfast so you wont notice too much difference in speed.. the 154 is larger so it will have more mass to help you float in powder the 152 will be easier to spin in the park.. eenie meenie minie moe!!!
I rode a 150 evo earlier this season. Very fun but at speed it definitely started flapping. It was fine but if you want to haul ass it'll expose itself a little.
06-22-2012 12:41 AM
dreampow Thats because the EVO is a park board. The proto can do park but its all mountain freestyle so they recommend a little bigger.

I agree the 152 is doable, but the only reason to get it IMO is if you plan to mainly ride park and thats clearly not the case.

The 154 is better for all mountain riding and powder and importantly gives some room for growth (putting on weight) in the next few years.

As always with board length preference is huge, but in this case since your a beginner the smart move is to go with the best all round length rather than the 152 which will be more park oriented.

Just my opinion.
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