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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-05-2013 09:56 PM
bseracka a monster hat
11-05-2013 09:49 PM
ekb18c With OP's username would you expect anything less?
11-05-2013 09:35 PM
Maikial probably the best use of that meme I've seen in a while...
11-04-2013 12:53 PM
11-04-2013 11:54 AM
Nivek Congratulations on ignoring 70% of what we all told you.
11-04-2013 11:01 AM
lastplayboy OK, 7 months later and here are the updates:

Boots: Burton SLX
Bindings: Burton Diode Non-EST
Boards: Nidecker Ultralight 162
Burton Custom Restricted 156

Got everything on mega discount over summer/fall sales.

Just need to get some more protective gear; Butt pads, wrist armor, mouthguard.

Going to start on the Custom, then move to the Nidecker.

Wish me luck !
03-30-2013 03:03 PM
Mel M If all you really want to do is blast through S-carves on the snow, then I'd suggest getting an inexpensive intermediary setup for a season so you can learn to link turns and basic carving, then try an move up to a hardboot alpine setup. You might enjoy that more being an advanced skier.

That's where you should spend the money. I'd MUCH rather spend $1000+ on a Kessler or Coiler than some Burton tech board.

Nothing wrong with wanting a great setup from the get go, but I really think there are actually better boards out there for less. Also, I would stick with no more than a med-stiff rating to start off with. Look at the GNU Rider's Choice or Billy Goat, NeverSummer Proto or SL, Nitro Blacklight Gullwing, or the Lib-tech TRS.

If I wanted a money-be-damned board, I would opt for a Nidecker Ultralight, but it's a bit stiff for a beginner. It's also near impossible to find in the US. I would get this over any "high-end" Burton board any day of the week.

For a high end binding, the Burton Genesis or Union MC since they're both flexy, yet responsive. The Diode's amazing, but way too stiff to start off with.

For boots, if an SLX fits, then go for it, but otherwise I'd rather get a $100 boot that fits perfectly than a $500 boot that just fits okay. If you want a boot that's loaded with just as much tech, check out the Salomon F4.0. They actually have a better reputation for boots than Burton.
03-28-2013 07:23 PM
wrathfuldeity At 37 u got some time, I started at 44; being a skier you will pick it up fairly fast because you already know about edges, keeping weight forward, reading snow and terrain. As you already are the primary concern and investment, then a few lessons to get you are on the way. And since ur athletic and a skier I'd recommend going hybrid c2btx or cambered.
03-28-2013 06:56 PM
Nivek To go into more detail on the price vs. value of boards in general, there are very rare cases outside of BX or splits where spending more than $700 on a deck alone is warranted.

If you really look into the boards you're looking at you'll notice they dont cater to a specific riding style, but instead to a specific rider. The guy who wants the most tech, lowest weight, and must illustrious price tag. The idea of the addage: light, stiff, cheap, pick two, is a perfect example of what these boards are really on the market for. They arent stiff and light. You're paying a premium for something that is just lighter than a Custom Flying V in the Method and the Vapor sits in between the Custom and CustomX and is just a little lighter than the Custom X. The only improved aspect of these boards is the weight. Are you really willing to pay $1k more than a Custom Flying V to save a quarter pound on your board? Oh not to mention these particular featherweight boards are weak. A good chunk of the weight saved is edge and base material, both of which have been significantly thinned on these boards. Meaning easier core shots and blown edges.

I stand by my original recommendations as they are some of the best riding boards in their category.

Also a particular boards build quality has little to do with it's price tag when you compare between brands. I've seen Lamars that shouldnt be alive after what they went through and Burtons bases come completely off the board in one piece. At this point I've had better ride and durability from the middle to low end decks in brands lines. And I 80% prefer extruded bases to sintered.
03-28-2013 05:30 PM
Originally Posted by lastplayboy View Post
Guys I need some advice picking gear for snow boarding. Thanks in advance!

I have been snow skiing for 18 years and have always wanted to snowboard. I am an advanced/expert skier and use stiff boots and high end skis. I rented a few times, but could never afford to invest the time and money into the sport.

I was in Vail and saw a 65 year old guy having a blast just carving s turns on his board and I realized if I don't get started it wont happen for me.

I like to buy high end equipment that is on sale for all my sports. (I am a big fan of buying last year's equipment.) I take care of my stuff and keep it for long periods of time. I feel a pride of ownership that enhances my enjoyment of any sport.

37 years old
200 lbs very athletic
size 11 or 10.5
90% groomed rest would be desire for fresh snow boarding. currently live midwest with yearly trips out west. possibility of moving to the mountains in the next two years.
No parks, no jumps.

Boots Burton SLX
Bindings Burton Diode est
Board Burton Mystery 162 (2013)
Burton Vapor 163 (2012)
Burton Vapor 159 or 162W (2013)

This equipment was selected because of its lightweight characteristics and stiffness, also, it is on great sale so the cost is not a huge issue.

I would like to find the board that I could just spend a lot of time making s turns all over and then hopefully if it snows use in fresh snow. Being in the Midwest, its possible to encounter ice, fake snow, slush, etc. I hope to spend more time in my future out West.

The problem I am having is in deciding between the camber or the flying V base design. I have read about the differences but I would appreciate some real opinions.

What board is best for transitioning turns?
What board is best for Midwest?
What board would be more forgiving for a beginner to grow into?

Thank You !
Now this is the thread for me. I'm 45 years old, learned to ride 5 years ago and am pretty similar physical stats, and I've ridden/owned these boards and bindings, and learned to ride on them. Beware the myth that higher price = higher stiffness = better, this isn't totally true, that's more of a riding style thing how stiff you want your board. Higher price often correlates with lighter weight and better quality, which is pretty much always better however.

Original poster, I assume you're either good at finding deals or budget isn't much of an issue or both.

The mystery and the vapor are both luxury boards, the perform very well, but they're not hard core uber stiff boards. They'll carve down groomers very well, and it will be several years before you need more board than these ones if ever. Burton says that the vapor brings out the best in the rider and that sounds like marketing b.s but there's a seed of truth to it, if find it an oddly easy board to ride. You can learn on them (i did just fine), it might be a little harder than a beginner board but not much. Burton's hard core agressive stiff board is the custom X, which I'd avoid for a first board.

Since you're in the midwest where there's often icy slopes, I recommend the vapor over the mystery. You're a little heavy for the 159 but you're just learning so go with that size. 2013 vapor has a wood core instead of metal which some prefer. If there mostly soft snow where you ride then get the mystery. If you want to buy something that will last for a long time then at your weight go 162 or 163 and grow into it. You're on the bubble with size 10.5 or 11 boots but burton shrinks the footprint on their higher end boots so I don't think you need a wide board, I'd check this in the shop to be sure.

As nivek says your ideal binding for that board is the genesis if you are just learning but if you can only get the diode at a good price go with that, I learned with C60's which are the forerunners to the diode, not a big deal.

More importantly get boots that fit you well, if the SLX's fit you well then go ahead, they're light and pretty stiff but not too stiff.

you'll fall a little more while learning as you'll have less forgiving stuff but it will make you a better rider for it.

lastly although you mention carving turns I think that as non boarder you have inadvertnetly suggested you want a true carving setup, which you probably dont' need.
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