|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 04:33 PM|
|XxSnowbunnyxX||My husband and I are pretty basic. We just get our boards fully tuned up at the start of the season at Eastern Boarder and then we wax here and there ourselves with the smearing type wax, the kind you buffer... not the hot wax (which WOULD be better for our boards, but we are lazy).|
|01-05-2016 01:39 PM|
Originally Posted by Godfery267 View Post
The graphite (or Molybdenum depending on the wax) will also color the base as well...
|12-29-2015 04:00 AM|
Originally Posted by tbarch View Post
|12-29-2015 02:56 AM|
Would it be better to go with a dedicated angle file guide or to do a multi-edge file guide?
I'm looking at picking up a SKS multi-edge tuner(also comes with three DMT diamond stones) that does both the base and side edge. I'm guessing the dedicated angle guides will be a little better but wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make if I wanted to save a little bit of money.
|12-17-2015 11:41 AM|
Just thought that after sanding and waxing my board would be smooth again.
|12-17-2015 11:17 AM|
Originally Posted by Zann0 View Post
as long as the scratches are only in the first layer, there's not much to do with them other than base grind and wax.
that board wants to die under your feet.
go kill it!
|12-17-2015 11:07 AM|
Last year in Austria I managed to scratch my board every possible way. Took it to professionals last week. They sanded it and hot waxed it. (I told them to do everything to get the stick as goos as possible) So I got it back today and don't know what to think. Scratches are all parallel to edges. Few are pretty deep even after waxing. Pictures below:
Should I be worried?
|12-17-2015 04:32 AM|
Originally Posted by Shep View Post
|12-17-2015 03:25 AM|
Originally Posted by Shep View Post
Rub the cold wax block on the base, this leaves a thin layer of wax which is sufficient.
Then spread that thin layer with the iron. Since the wax little AND already distributed, you won't need to iron as long as with the dripping method. Quick and continued moving of the iron: no prob with overheating, getting insert dimpels. And there's hardly excess wax to scrape off. I.e. a block of wax will last a looooong time.
Brush? Dunno. Never used one. My take? You don't need one.
|12-17-2015 02:48 AM|
I have always just paid to have my board waxed, but now that my gf has picked one up and I have 2 board to look after I feel now it might be time to start.
I go roughly every 6 months and spend maybe 25 Australian dollars(per board) on a wax or 2 and a storage wax after my trip. The second board would double this (although she won't need much waxing )
I have looked at a basic kit and it seems that I can get :
-Demon Base cleaner $9 CLEANER
- Wax (Demon Team All temp 133 grams) $9.60 WAX
-Cheap steam iron $12 (2000 watt but has a temp control)
-brush from hardware store $5
All up around $44 Aussie.
1. How long would this wax last a beginner? Obviously i am going to waste a fair amount while getting started but is this a tiny amount that will only alst me about 10 waxes? I see there are blocks that come per pound but cannot find one cheap for all temperature shipping to Australia.
2. Would I be better off letting a pro handle this? I'm still going to be too scared to do any edge work.
3. Is this iron going to trash the boards? I have read up and know to keep temp low and to keep the iron moving and to turn down the temp when the wax starts to smoke.
4. What sort of brush do i need to get? Guide says a nylon bristle brush. Does this mean a really stiff bristled scrubbing brush or more of a gentle shoe polishing style brush?
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