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Thread: Making A Log Rail -- Need Advice from a Wood Expert! Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-17-2011 03:49 PM
Steez i think they just glazed it with the torch and maybe on the top where u ride they sanded it or sanded it then propaned it not sure
09-17-2011 03:30 PM
CheeseForSteeze It's fire hardening. We used to make giant shillelagh cudgels in college to compete in St. Patrick's day every year out of entire trees. We just used a makeshift propane flamethrower up the middle of the tree, which was cored out with an auger. It took an hour or so but that thing was like a granite fossil after finished. Temperatures inside were around 1100 deg F, you could throw an empty beer can in it and it would disintegrate before it could blow out the other end.
09-17-2011 02:07 PM
bchambers94 Does anyone know what this "something" is? And Steez, was he just sanding over the burnt spots when the black was turning the whitish color?
09-16-2011 11:01 PM
Steez The Making of the Burton Stash at Jackson Hole - YouTube
go to like 4:20ish and you see him coating/flaming it
09-16-2011 10:58 PM
Steez they didnt just put a coating they put something on top then used a flame and sort of melted it to give it that slick coating
09-16-2011 10:43 PM
bchambers94 BUMPPPP! And dny suggestions on a type of protective coating (to prevent rotting) and another type of coating for a more slick/smooth slide? We sanded it and it's already pretty slick, but our local mountain had a log rail with a slick type of coating on it that made it real easy to slide, and I was wondering if there was anything out there like that. Thanks for the help!
09-02-2011 03:57 PM
HoboMaster It's still pretty Fing hard to do a 12 foot horizontal cut with a chainsaw. Especially assuming the chainsaw you guys are going to use isn't going to be a logger's chainsaw (High CC's, easier cutting). I've monkeyed around making some wood features and I had the best result with a 6 foot 5 inch diameter log down-rail. I also made a smaller flat-rail, but had a lot of problems because the part of the cedar tip I used had a lot of knots. For wood features, knots are your worst enemy since they catch your board and are a bitch to sand out perfectly.

Knots are caused by branches, so try and pick a piece of wood with no to little branches, it will make the end product a lot better and easier to finish.

Honestly the easiest piece of wood to finish is an old, dead, but not rotting log.
09-02-2011 03:23 PM
Originally Posted by CMSbored View Post
Just use a chainsaw. It is not hard at all. just nail 2x4s along the sides lengthwise and use them as a guide. go slow and it will take maybe a half hour depending on how long you want. be careful not to kick back
Nice idea I didn't think of that should work well
09-02-2011 02:44 PM
CMSbored Just use a chainsaw. It is not hard at all. just nail 2x4s along the sides lengthwise and use them as a guide. go slow and it will take maybe a half hour depending on how long you want. be careful not to kick back
09-02-2011 02:24 PM
Originally Posted by CheeseForSteeze View Post
No, cutting it with a 2 person saw will take very long and result in a poor cut. I think you should just make sure it's free of knots. Your work would be easier if you had a smooth tree like a beech or sycamore. Ash or oak trees would be stronger but you'd probably want to debark the top surface.

Debarking isn't too bad. Ff you have to, choose a tree like a white oak that flakes off. It will save you hours of work. Just go to work with a planar, shouldn't take too long. Even faster is a power washer or hydrolance; you can debark the whole thing in minutes. Just don't cut yourself, I saw a guy cut his femoral artery with a hydrolance and he bled to death very quickly.

Jeez, that doesn't sound good lol. But thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it out. We're actually going to try and debark it tonight, and maybe find a couple of logs for the support stands.
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