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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-23-2011 11:31 PM
Originally Posted by turbospartan View Post
something AWD...

Eagle Talon / Mitsubishi Eclipse TSi or whatever they were called (old ones, not new ones).

Can find those for pretty cheap and I think they're pretty reliable.

2001 or earlier Audi A4 (I have a 2004) you could probably get for 2-3k, great in snow. Maintenance a little more expensive, but if you take care of them they last forever.
Tell me where you get get a 2001 Audi for that cheap? I just sold my 1999 for 8000. You've got your head in the clouds bud.
10-21-2011 11:30 AM
Willbilly if you can find one my riding buddy drives an old Volkswagon Rabbit Truck diesel.

Its the perfect beater! Massive gas milage, its a truck, and it has a bed.
10-21-2011 11:20 AM
Originally Posted by unxetas View Post
By the way, I was serious about the Volvo for sale. 95 Volvo 850 non-turbo, 5 speed manual, great condition. Lots of crappy condition ones out there have brought the value of these way down. 1750 and it's yours. Not much bigger than a civic (sedan), easily fits 3 guys and boards, 4 is tough but possible. I can also sell you a 92 gmc Sierra half ton for 3 grand if you sell it back to me intge spring for 2.5! Lol..
Hey thanks for the offer. Unfortunately we need an auto trans... 'someone' doesn't drive standard (not me either!)
10-21-2011 12:11 AM
bubbachubba340 What siping essentially does in the snow is allow for more flexing of the tread blocks to grip the road at the same time as giving the snow a place to pack into the tread. The snow that packs into the tread actually helps the traction of the tire rather than hinder it like this does in the mud. The extra snow on the tire grips the snow and ice on the road better than the rubber.
10-20-2011 01:42 PM
Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
Oh yeah, and whatever car/truck/suv you end up with, get the tires siped! On compact snow or ice, a siped tire can increase your traction by 200%. Ask any local tire dealer about tire siping.
this! at first i didnt think some grooves cut into a tire could do that much, but i was out riding (dirtbikes) a couple of weeks ago with a guy who works at les schwab and absolutly swears by siping the tires. He went into depth about how it works and the benefits but i forget most of them...bottom line though, whatever tires you get, have them siped (its like $50 i think) and it will be well worth it. Im sure as hell having the brand new tires on the subie siped
10-20-2011 10:26 AM
unxetas By the way, I was serious about the Volvo for sale. 95 Volvo 850 non-turbo, 5 speed manual, great condition. Lots of crappy condition ones out there have brought the value of these way down. 1750 and it's yours. Not much bigger than a civic (sedan), easily fits 3 guys and boards, 4 is tough but possible. I can also sell you a 92 gmc Sierra half ton for 3 grand if you sell it back to me intge spring for 2.5! Lol..
10-20-2011 06:22 AM
Originally Posted by GreatScott View Post
I've never heard that before but I have heard that if I start to lose traction with my AWD, I can deflate my tires a little to get more rubber on the ground (wider tire) and get me going again. What's the logic with a thinner tire?

The logic - as it has been explained to me by a tire shop guy - is that you want to have the most pressure possible between your car and the ground to improve winter traction. To do this you want to reduce contact area on your tires because, by doing that, you increase the pound-pressure per square inch exerted by your car on the road. The higher pound pressure of a narrower tire pushes the contact area of the car and the road together more than a tire with more surface area that will spread out the carís weight.

Think of a football cleat gripping a field. It grips because there is higher pound-force per square inch between the end of each spike and the grass than there would be from a shoe with a flatter bottom where the pound-force lower with the weight spread out over a larger area.

When you deflate your tires in mud or soft ground you increase the surface area that the pressure is distributed on so the ability of the vehicle to sink is reduced because its footprint is increased. You have to think of mud and snow driving differently; you want to travel on mud and not sink but with snow youíd ideally want to sink through it to get to the pavement.

Anyone correct me on this if Iím wrong.

To the OP: Iíd look around for a mid-90s Tercel, Civic, Corolla, Sentra or Metro and be prepared to buy some good tires. If youíre in Vancouver you wonít be hitting very much snow until you get close to the mountains so a Subaru etc. would be cool but isnít really needed. You donít need anything burly in this area, just something solid for the last few KM of the drive. Even when I go to Baker I see a ton of Civics etc. in the parking lot and that can be a hairy road with awful snow. I drive a Sentra and itís great for around here, I have good tires on it and Iím set. What you do want is an avalanche shovel to dig yourself out in the parking lots or if you slide into a ditch. Iíve had times at Cypress and Baker when it snows 6Ē-10Ē while Iím there and Iím parking on top of loose snow already, a shovel will be a big, big help at times, just ask the people Iíve dug out.
If you can go to the US to buy then look into that because it will be cheaper but you have to deal with importing it. Even if you buy a car in Vancouver and need tires think about going to the US to buy them.
10-20-2011 06:18 AM
eagle61 Todays Car hot news is, Infinitiís FX series of crossovers, on the other hand, are living proof that not all crossovers are boring, and that some are actually built with the driver, not just passengers, in mind. Infiniti builds two versions of the FX crossover: the FX35 comes with a 3.5-liter V-6, good for 303 horsepower, while the FX50 comes with a 5.0-liter V-8, good for an impressive 390 horsepower. Either will do nicely, and the FX35 feels a bit more nimble thank to its lower weight. If you know more information about car news you can read this news from
10-20-2011 04:48 AM
wrathfuldeity grafta, any car with good tires and a set of chains will get up Baker...there is only 3 hairpins to pay attention to and the last one is the deal breaker...if you have any doubts chain up in the chaining areas. The road is pretty well cleaned off unless you go really early or late. I've only chained up 3 times in 9 years in my old rwd volvos, corolla and tercel. Ya got to drive sensibly and enjoy the view/ride, ocassional black ice in spots, leave plenty of room to keep your self rolling when going up and plenty of room to stop/slow down when going down and you will be fine. If you can't do it with this, nobody can and they will have the road closed down...which happens 1-3 times a year.
10-20-2011 01:30 AM
unxetas You'd be surprised how much more expensive used cars can be here in BC compared to OR..
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