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Thread: Engraving a top sheet? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-06-2012 05:49 PM
EatRideSleep
Quote:
Originally Posted by ,andreas View Post
plus it's rad as hell!
Haha thanks, Andreas!
01-06-2012 05:25 PM
,andreas plus it's rad as hell!
01-06-2012 03:59 PM
EatRideSleep Haha yeah it came that way. It's a Mervin, of course there's a weirdness to it! There is a benefit to it, though, as snow doesn't really stick as much.

Okay, cool; thanks!
01-06-2012 03:53 PM
grafta
Quote:
Originally Posted by EatRideSleep View Post
Thanks for the heads up. If I go the route of professional engraver, I thought it would be easier for them to do the top sheet.

Do you think the textured top sheet matters much? It has a snakeskin texture.

Thanks!


Oh god

Should be fine
01-06-2012 03:50 PM
EatRideSleep
Quote:
Originally Posted by grafta View Post
It may be difficult for engraver to setup to do curved and narrow sidewall. Depends on the machine
Thanks for the heads up. If I go the route of professional engraver, I thought it would be easier for them to do the top sheet.

Do you think the textured top sheet matters much? It has a snakeskin texture.

Thanks!
01-06-2012 03:32 PM
grafta It may be difficult for engraver to setup to do curved and narrow sidewall. Depends on the machine
01-06-2012 03:18 PM
EatRideSleep
Quote:
Originally Posted by grafta View Post
Shouldn't be a prob for an engraver to put a number in it. Just get them go as shallow as possible but deep enough to expose (hopefully) the lighter color underneath. Engravers do this all the time with two-colour material, ie Black top surface/white base surface to route out text for plaques...

Just tell them max depth of like 1/32 or something so they know to not go too deep
Thanks, grafta; I was hoping you would chime in on this. Based on your occupation, I thought you might know the tech side of it. Thanks for the max depth measurement guideline.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zk0ot View Post
ya looked like a dremel.

.... one of mervins only faults IMO. I dont see how an edge being there would make a difference. i only refferred that spot becuase it gets very little contact. As for the side walls you can be a little more strategous than right in the middle. like near the toe or heel of the binding. a bit more protected there

idk just opinions... you could even get a scribe and do it by hand in the top sheet.
The only issue I've heard about the edge not being there (and it could also be an example of Mervin's reason for NOT fully wrapping) is that a shop friend of mine told me how he is always repairing the nose of a customer's older Gnu board. But he also said she must constantly be running into shit for it to happen so often haha.

Oh okay yeah on the side wall near the toe or heel of the bindings would be a good spot.

If I use a scribe tool and do it by hand, I'll definitely have to put it under the binding. And use as few characters as possible haha.

Thanks again for the thoughts and ideas, guys!
01-06-2012 03:01 PM
zk0ot
Quote:
Originally Posted by EatRideSleep View Post

Interesting...does 'hand engraved' mean with a power tool (like a Dremel) or hand tool?

It's not capped. I haven't considered putting it on the side wall because I thought there was a greater chance of it getting marred there. The problem with putting it near the nose or tail (I think, could be wrong) is that since it's a Mervin board, it's not fully wrapped. And like the side wall, it might have a greater chance of being damaged there (?)

Thanks for the responses so far!
ya looked like a dremel.

.... one of mervins only faults IMO. I dont see how an edge being there would make a difference. i only refferred that spot becuase it gets very little contact. As for the side walls you can be a little more strategous than right in the middle. like near the toe or heel of the binding. a bit more protected there

idk just opinions... you could even get a scribe and do it by hand in the top sheet.
01-06-2012 02:58 PM
grafta Shouldn't be a prob for an engraver to put a number in it. Just get them go as shallow as possible but deep enough to expose (hopefully) the lighter color underneath. Engravers do this all the time with two-colour material, ie Black top surface/white base surface to route out text for plaques...

Just tell them max depth of like 1/32 or something so they know to not go too deep
01-06-2012 02:43 PM
EatRideSleep
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riley212 View Post
is it a mervin board? strange that it didn't come with a serial number.

whatever you do, color the engraving in with a sharpie and put a thin coat of urethane over it to keep water out.

practice on something similar.
Yup it's a GNU. I thought it was strange, too, and after poring over every inch of the top sheet and having someone else look over it also, I called Mervin. They said it must have been one of the few that ran through before they started putting serial numbers on every board last year.

Good idea about inking it and sealing it with a urethane. Thanks!

I can't think of anything similar I can use to practice on first, though. Especially having that texture to work with...I can imagine the Dremel hopping and skipping if I don't use a heavy pressure. And if I use too heavy a pressure, going too deep...

Quote:
Originally Posted by zk0ot View Post
a kid that comes to my shop is a cousin of seth morrison.... (skiier for k2)and will recieve some of seth's retired skis. He was given a test model that had no graphic and was hand engraved with a serial number in the side wall.

Thats where i would put it... (assuming its not capped)the ptex there is pretty thick, wouldnt have to worry so much of going to deep. youcould also put something in the base at the very apex of the nose or tail right along the edge.
Interesting...does 'hand engraved' mean with a power tool (like a Dremel) or hand tool?

It's not capped. I haven't considered putting it on the side wall because I thought there was a greater chance of it getting marred there. The problem with putting it near the nose or tail (I think, could be wrong) is that since it's a Mervin board, it's not fully wrapped. And like the side wall, it might have a greater chance of being damaged there (?)

Thanks for the responses so far!
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