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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-01-2012 03:11 PM
sxdaca I would love the nx2 se but I don't know that much about flow flex so I'm still unsure, the binders are 4outta 5 which would be pretty stiff. But all the stiffness I believe it comes from the baseplate bc the mod back is soft. I have 09 custom binders ( 4 outta 10 ) the baseplate is very stiff and the highback is very flexible, very similar in my eyes with the nxse which confuses me a lot in term of flex.

I'm gonna do 99% park riding this season, so the flex in the binding would be really important. I'm also getting either a draft or blacklist deck.
11-01-2012 02:59 PM
hikeswithdogs I'm a big fan of wide boards, sure their noticeably slower edge to edge but MUCH better on powder days IMO.
11-01-2012 02:54 PM
Wiredsport
Quote:
Originally Posted by sxdaca View Post
Yes wired thank you. You are very helpful

I'm getting flow bindings, in this case would be better the one piece strap since the hybrid would have toe cap? Or that wouldnt be that important?
Either style NX2 will work well with those specs. The Flow bindings have a lot of lift so drag will be minimal on either.
11-01-2012 02:46 PM
sxdaca Yes wired thank you. You are very helpful

I'm getting flow bindings, in this case would be better the one piece strap since the hybrid would have toe cap? Or that wouldnt be that important?
11-01-2012 12:14 PM
Wiredsport Hi sxdaca,

If I am understanding you correctly you have about .5 cm of combined barefoot overhang at the inerts at your stance angle. Did I get that right? If so, that is awesome. Your boots are 2 inches longer than your feet which is not that unusual. If you are not geting too much toe drag there is really no need to switch boots if they are a good snug fit. Toe drag will depend on a few things including binding height and ramping as well as the shaping and bevel of the bottom of the boot at the toe and heel.

Did I answer your question at all?
11-01-2012 11:48 AM
sxdaca Hey wired
I did your method and it turned to be good if I compare my feet (28.5 cm) with the width at the stance considering the angle (28 cm) in my 58 custom.I know you mentioned in your post boots add about 1/3 to 1/2 inch. In my case if I did the same measure of the boot it turns to be 34 cm about 5 cm longer which would be about 2 inches longer than my feet. This problem ended up with a toe cap ripped from last season.
My boots are 2010 Rome libertine 10.5 and this year I'm getting shorter board ( I'm between draft55/blacklist54) the blacklist is just mid wide and wont solve this problem and draft doesn't come in wide, so do I have to get new boots? If so can you recommend me some with similar characteristic(flex/comfort) but not that big or chunky

Thanks
11-01-2012 10:55 AM
Tech420
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLN View Post
with US12 foot - definaetly wide board.
Extra-wide board is a smaller probmlem, then toe-drag. At lest to me =)
I wear the same size and don't need a wide
11-01-2012 10:43 AM
TLN with US12 foot - definaetly wide board.
Extra-wide board is a smaller probmlem, then toe-drag. At lest to me =)
11-01-2012 09:07 AM
wrathfuldeity Wired you ought to copy this to the narrow board thread....its good info about fitting the board to your feet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiredsport View Post
I hope that this helps:

How wide of a snowboard do I need? Where is the width of a snowboard measured? What does width mean in terms of my boot size?

Letís start by talking about measurements, because this is where a lot of the confusion arises. The most common width measurement that is provided by manufacturers is "waist". The waist is measured at the narrowest point near the middle of the board (usually). But like with all things in snowboarding, different brands measure different things. Some measure the midpoint between the tip and tail and call that "waist". Others simply provide a measurement they call, "width", but do not really specify what width they are referring to.

If that has you a bit confused, don't worry, because regardless of where these "waist" measurements are taken, they are not very useful for what they are typically used for. Most people think that this measurement is a good indicator of what foot size a board will handle. It is not, and for a simple reason: you do not stand at the waist, you stand at the inserts. A board's waist measurement is always less than the measurement at the inserts and often the difference is significant. Additionally, two boards with the same waist dimension, may have very different measurements at the inserts, depending on each board's sidecut. Measurement at the center insert is a much better way to compare boards for shoe size compatibility, but for some odd reason, manufacturers do not publish this info.

OK, so now we have told you why we think the commonly provided measurements are pretty silly, but what good does that do you? You still need to know how to figure out the correct width for your new board. Well, here comes. There are two easy steps to getting it right every time.

First, measure your bare foot. It is important that you do not try to use a boot size. It is also important that you measure in centimeters, because the board measurements that you will be comparing to will be in cm. Here is the method that we suggest:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters).

Second, measure the board you are considering. This measurement is easy. It should be taken at the inserts. Try to measure at the inserts that you will be using to achieve your stance position. If you are unsure about this, simply measure at the center of the insert cluster (that will still be very close). Be sure to measure using the base of the board, not the deck. This is important because the sidewalls on many boards are angled in, and will therefore give you a smaller measurement on the deck than on the base. For our example's sake, let's say the measurement is 27.54 at the center insert.

Still with us? You are almost done. You now have a way to compare foot size to board width where it matters, but how do you interpret this info to get the correct width? Well that depends a little on stance angle. If you ride a 0 degree stance, you will want your foot size to be the same as the width of the board at the inserts or up to 1 cm greater. If you ride at an angled stance, you will want to measure the board across at the angles that you will be riding. Again, you will want your foot to at least match this measurement or exceed it by up to 1 cm. So using our example above, this guy has a foot 28.57 cm that exceeds the board with at the inserts 27.54 cm by 1.03 cm at a zero degree angle. But, when he angles his feet to the 15 degree angles that he rides, voila, he has .10 cm of overhang for a perfect fit.

But wait a second. Are we saying that you should have overhang, even with bare feet? Yes. You will need overhang to be able to apply leverage to your edges and to get the most out of your board. 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of boot overhang for both toe and heel is ideal, and will not create problematic toe or heel drag. Remember that boots typically add 1/2 at both the toe and heel to your foot measurement from above, due to padding, insulation and the outer boot materials. We do not suggest using the boot length to size boards though, as the extra padding etc, cannot be used well to create leverage, that has to come from your foot itself. We highly recommend that riders do not choose boards where their feet do not come to or exceed the real board width.

OK, that's all well and good, but where can you get the information on board width at the inserts if the manufacturers don't provide it? That's easy. Email the store that carries the board(s) that you are considering. Give them your foot length in cm (and your stance width and angles if you know them). They will be able to provide you with the width at the inserts that you will be using and can factor in your stance angle as well to get you the exact overhang that you will have with bare feet.

PS:

Once mounted, the best way to test is to put your (tightly laced) boots into your bindings and strap them in tightly. It is important that you have the heel pulled all the way back into the bindings heel cup or the test wonít help. On a carpeted floor place your board flat on its base. Kneel behind the heelside edge and lift that edge so that it rests on your knees and so that the toeside edge is angled down into the carpet. Now press down with both hands using firm pressure, one hand on each of the boots. This will compress the board's sidecut and simulate a turn on hard snow. You can change the angle of the board on your knees to become progressively steeper and you will be able to see at what angle you will start getting toe drag. You will want to repeat the test for your heelside as well. If you are not getting drag at normal turn and landing angles, then you are good to go.

PPS:

Also a note about boots: Boot design plays a big role in toe drag as does binding ramping and binding base height. Boots that have a solid bevel at the toe/heel drag less. Many freestyle boots push for more surface contact and reduce bevel. This helps with contact, but if you have a lot of overhang with those boots it hurts in terms of toe drag.

Now go ride!
11-01-2012 08:23 AM
Wiredsport A few things to consider. "Wide" has no specific meaning between brands or even models.

The Horrorscope is a great example. The 151 Wide is 25.7 at the waist which is only .5 cm wider that the same deck in standard. In the Rome Garage Rocker (for instance) the difference between normal and wide is 1 cm and the 151 wide in that deck is 26 cm. Wide decks range from the low 25 cm range to the mid 27 cm range (at the waist).

If you have a minute, please measure your foot using the method below:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters).
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