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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-17-2012 10:06 AM
walove dont care much about the condition of the base, by the time i choose to saw a board in half the base it usually pretty beat, riding in montana is not kind to boards lots of sharp basalt and a thin snowpack.

its more about the time and cost of installing the tnuts, if you are only building one board it doesnt mater much if your building a bunch it gets old.

sorry for the thread jack, diy splitboard class is a good thing you can ruin a board if you dont know what your doing, especially installing tnuts. Use a fostner bit with a adjustable stop, and press the tnut in with a vice instead of hammering. west systems 610 thickend g flex epoxy is your friend.
11-17-2012 01:58 AM
ETM Is your reason asthetics of base performance?
11-16-2012 08:33 PM
walove Progression requires experimentation. I want to build diy boards with no tnuts. Tele bindings for years only had three screws per binding and people, but skis are beefed up in the mounting area. If I add another layer of glass where the touring bracket goes I think it will do the trick.

Side note, my first split snaped across the touring backet while skinning through a dip. The board had an "air core" where the core has channels milled out between the bindings not good for a split but I didn't know untill the board was cut. It lasted three years.

I built a dynafit soft boot this summer so a different hole patern is needed.
11-16-2012 04:35 PM
ETM
Quote:
Originally Posted by walove View Post
Next one i make im going to figure a way not to use tnuts on the touring bracket. Im thinking a couple fiberglassing it to the top sheet and using ski screws.
Better to have a few holes in the base than to be stuck out there with a failed mounting system
11-16-2012 10:12 AM
walove nice that they are offering the class. Making the center cut is pretty simple, we just clamp on a guide and hit it with the skill saw. I have even added taper to the board by making two cuts at a slight angle. Putting in the inserts takes a little more time. My buddy makes diy pucks that use the factory inserts and a ski screw, so i dont have inserts for the pucks. Next one i make im going to figure a way not to use tnuts on the touring bracket. Im thinking a couple fiberglassing it to the top sheet and using ski screws.
11-15-2012 11:06 PM
ETM Without a 3 axis water jet there is a problem when you get to the nose and tail due to the fact that the distance between the nozzle and the board becomes greater so it actually removes more material and the neatness of the cut is reduced.
I used a circular saw and then dressed the edge on my linisher so it was perfectly straight.
11-15-2012 10:54 PM
linvillegorge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whoracle View Post
wouldnt the millimeter or so that the sawblade turns into dust make the board feel different? I am not sure as to how much a waterjet would remove though, so the difference might be negligible.
Yeah, the little bit of board removed in the middle really is negligible. Anytime you split a board, you're gonna lose some torsional rigidity. There's just no way around it.
11-15-2012 10:41 PM
ShredLife any time you cut a board its going to change it a little bit.you definitely want to cut a wood core, hopefully not cutting thru any carbon stringers although it can be done.
the best way is with a waterjet or maybe some kinda star trek laser . i've never built a diy split but from what i understand most people use a circular saw with a straight-edged jig (a board) clamped to the board as a guide.
11-15-2012 10:36 PM
Whoracle
Quote:
Originally Posted by linvillegorge View Post
Yeah, I'd just throw that bitch and a table saw and rip it.
wouldnt the millimeter or so that the sawblade turns into dust make the board feel different? I am not sure as to how much a waterjet would remove though, so the difference might be negligible.
11-15-2012 10:10 PM
linvillegorge Yeah, I'd just throw that bitch and a table saw and rip it.
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