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Thread: Un-even hot wax? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
12-24-2012 02:33 PM
kyled lol thanks everyone, been a big help does it matter if i don't really hotwax the nose and tail?
12-24-2012 11:19 AM
Originally Posted by Esmi99 View Post
Yeah the way i understand the mechanics of it all, when you pull, you take away a small layer at a time. And if you push, you might pull big chunks of wax, sometimes leaving the base naked including the absorbed part, especially with more brittle, lower temp waxes.
wax goes in the base, not on the base, you wont pull chunks out if you let it cool
12-24-2012 03:18 AM
Originally Posted by tdn View Post
But it's a complete waste of wax. I've got to admit, this threads leaving my head spinning a bit, and as much as I want to stay away.. I can't.

Once you used an iron to wax your board, and you spread the wax evenly, ...... its worked excellent for me with the wax I use.. lasts long and is very quick.
I agree. And I just about do everything you do with the exception of the routines which the horsehair brush because I don't have one. Very good advice you've got there.
12-24-2012 02:04 AM
tdn Last thing..

So adding more wax won't do squat. It's all about the type of wax and the conditions you're riding. Leaving excess wax on the board actually slows the board down. Hence why it's crucial to remove as much wax as possible.
12-24-2012 01:46 AM
Originally Posted by Esmi99 View Post
wax it as much as you want it's designed for that
But it's a complete waste of wax. I've got to admit, this threads leaving my head spinning a bit, and as much as I want to stay away.. I can't.

Once you used an iron to wax your board, and you spread the wax evenly, it is a complete waste to wax it again if you haven't ridden the board. The base can only absorb a certain amount of wax. If it makes you feel better, then go ahead and do it, but it's not doing anything.

If the base of your board is un even, or in other words, there's more wax removed from one area than another, you need to continue scraping to remove all the wax you possibly can without digging into the base. You're scraper will not dig into the base unless you start taking the base out. I prefer a metal scraper hands down, but it's much easier to wreak havoc with a metal scraper, so take caution. If you're just starting off, use a plastic scraper until you get a technique down.

The 45 degree pulling scraping technique is perfectly fine, it's the best way to avoid causing problems, but it can be done pull or pushing, it can be done with both push and pull in rapid motion. Go from tip to tail or vice versa, they don't have to be continuous strokes when doing so. The purpose is to remove as much wax as possible with the scraper.

From here, I use a nylon brush to remove even more wax. The nylon brush will only remove the wax from the surface, that the scraper missed. It's often those un even spots the OP talked about. I flatten my brush on the base going over rough or un even spots.. it also helps to angle the brush a bit to dig a little deeper. You'll start noticing the nylon brush is polishing the base. This is what you want. Again, do this from tip to tail. If you don't have a nylon brush, that's fine, but you want to get as much wax off with the scraper, because it makes using a scotch bright pad even easier.

From here I take a scotch bright pad. This is for the very small specs of excess wax if any, but it also polishes it even more. I don't necessarily go tip to tail with the scotch bright pad, and technically you don't have to with the nylon brush either. Here I go over the entire base, but also keep an eye out for spots of excess wax. If I missed something heavy, I'll take the nylon brush out and get it. Otherwise, I continue polishing with the pad.

Once done, I take out the horsehair brush. From tip to tail, I cover the entire base of the board. Doesn't take long, you don't have to go crazy at this step, just go over the base a few times.

Then I usually take out the scotch bright pad and go from tip to tail on the base quickly. Leaving the base, shiny and slick. This is pretty much my method, you can shorten it quite a bit or go even crazier as I've done on occasion, but it's the gist of it.

All of the above can be done with just a plastic scraper and a pad, in which case the scraper is even more important, because it because a pain in the ass to polish the base otherwise, because the pad will be doing the job of the scraper in a very inefficient way.

It's late as hell here right now and I'm exhausted, so I'm not going to bother proofreading. I hope it all made sense. Please critique my method if you must, but its worked excellent for me with the wax I use.. lasts long and is very quick.
12-23-2012 08:18 PM
kyled ight aha thanks man everyone has been a big help stokedd for this season
12-23-2012 08:15 PM
Esmi99 wax it as much as you want it's designed for that. Unless you'll start using a screwdriver to scrape or leave your iron in one place till the base bubbles up, you are not ruining the base in any way. Those things can take a lot of punishment.

Btw make sure you let it cool for 30 minutes before you scrape it
12-23-2012 08:11 PM
kyled yeah ahah exactly what im worried about happening to me, I won't damage the board or anything if i give it another hot wax so this time i know i got it right?
12-23-2012 08:09 PM
Esmi99 Maybe thats why it only lasts 10 runs?
12-23-2012 08:05 PM
kyled yeah i just wanna get a good first few runs on it and after the waxing i gave it, some areas looked way more polished then others so i might just rewax it
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