|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-05-2013 07:13 AM|
Gdog's right, with the flex most highbacks have you can get away with not rotating them. But I still would. You really don't want to have to rely on the flex to them them in the correct position. Plus you'll lose the support from the outside of the highback as they're not turned inward towards the tips.
My t-bolts didn't come out easy either. I had to leave the screw in half way and pop them out with a hammer. They didn't go back in easy either. It's a pain, but nothing unusual.
|01-05-2013 03:55 AM|
Yeah I just moved it back where it was, I did not have any issues getting in and out of the binding but like you said and the video the highback is flexible enough.
I did end up changing the stance again for a starter I'm going to go with +15/-9
|01-05-2013 01:07 AM|
Originally Posted by MikeCL View Post
The whole point of rotating highbacks was to allow to boot to be able to flex more in one direction than the other, because older highbacks were stiff as my.. er...stapler...when my mistresses... you get the idea!
*Joke used to show a point- I'm not really a pimp or anything!
Anyway, because modern highbacks are a lot more flexible, they don't need to be rotated to compensate for boot flex, as the Union guy points out in the helpful video.
If you were to rotate the highback, the T-bolt holes on one side would stick out on the inside of the binding, which might make it more difficult to get your boot in. I rotated mine when I first got the bindings just because I felt like checking out the adjustment, and it was harder to get my wider boot in.
Example: If you rotate it to the left (from behind), you move down a hole on the left side and up a hole on the right side. This would make the hole section stick out into the binding on the left side, and the right side if rotated the other way.
With the highback centered, both T-bolts are in the middle holes and no side sticks out more than the other. This would make it easy to get your boot in.
Like said, the highbacks are flexible so you don't need to rotate them to match up the the side of the board.
|01-04-2013 11:56 PM|
|MikeCL||Hmm those T-bolts came right out, I had to tap mine out with a oversized screw and hammer, inserting them back in was less of a pain. Also interesting he says rotating them is not really needed because of the zytel material they used in the highback. I'm not too sure how it would affect me as a beginner.|
|01-04-2013 11:37 PM|
I have a pair of DLXs, and in this video it shows the Force binding but the highbacks are still rotated the same way. The highback rotation tutorial starts at 03:49
Hope that helps!
|01-04-2013 09:37 PM|
Originally Posted by Extremo View Post
|01-04-2013 09:21 PM|
|Extremo||Those are t-bolts, pop that metal piece out and insert it back through the next hole.|
|01-04-2013 09:09 PM|
Let me show you what I mean here.. I undid the ankle straps
but are you talking about this here? I haven't tried this since I don't have a tool small enough to fit between here.
mind you I fully removed both straps on both sides and was still unable to figure out how to move it.
|01-04-2013 02:35 PM|
|phony_stark||Yep. Undo the ladder screw and the ankle screw, move the holes over, and screw them back.|
|01-04-2013 01:45 PM|
|Extremo||I'm not familiar with the DLX but my other Union models all have 3 holes in the highback. You just rotate them to the next set.|
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