|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-29-2013 10:43 PM|
|RJRJRJ||Be careful. You can fuck the edge angles up if you dont know what you're doing.|
|01-29-2013 10:17 PM|
Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
|01-29-2013 10:15 PM|
Originally Posted by Jammy473 View Post
The whole deburring thing is a bit overrated in my opinion, the key is to sharpen when your board gets dull if there will be ice.
If you ride icy conditions a lot you may have to sharpen every few days, if you ride soft conditions you may be able to ride many days without need to sharpen, best to learn to test for a dull edge.
I'd say for best riding deburring on a 1 to 10 scale is a 2 or 3 in importance where sharpening is a 9/10 in importance, with waxing a 5 or 6.
|01-29-2013 09:51 PM|
I'll give you the best advice: Ride the whole season, then at the end of the season get your edges sharpened from a place that does tune-ups.
Also when you are done riding for the day, make sure to dry off your edges because rust will form very fast.
|01-29-2013 01:27 PM|
Originally Posted by Jammy473 View Post
|01-29-2013 12:32 PM|
Originally Posted by Lamps View Post
I noticed that arbor have detuned from the factory so not worried about that any more.
|01-28-2013 02:45 PM|
Originally Posted by triumph.man View Post
Back on topic, in additon you should get a gummy stone, which is like a rubber pencil eraser with some grit in it, you can use it for deburring and for detuning once you have sharpened. I like to use it intead of the diamond stone, it's more forgiving.
You also should get a magic marker. Before you sharpen your board you paint the edge with the marker and then as you pass the file over the edge to sharpen it you will see what area has been sharpened as the ink is ground away by the file.
Note that deburring and sharpening consume your snowboard by grinding metal off the edges so you should sharpen when you need it, not every 3-4 days, which may be unnecessary.
You won't need to deburr much if at all unless you are hitting rocks/riding where there are rocks/gravel in the snow. You won't need to sharpen if you are riding in soft snow, ice is what dulls your edges (and is when you need sharp edges).
So if you were to go riding for a week in nice soft snowy conditions your board would likely still be sharp (and it wouldn't matter if it wasn't sharp in soft snow anyways). If you were riding in really icy conditions you likely would need to sharpen sooner.
Learn to test how sharp the board is by drawing your fingernail over it, if the edge scrapes a little layer off your fingernail then its sharp. If you get your board sharpened by a shop you can test on a sharp board or try this on a new board, ask the salesguy if it comes already sharpened (most do).
If you're the sort of person that likes to do their own maintence I suggest getting an iron, brushes, scraper, etc. and then you can wax your board yourself. Most people learn to wax first and later start maintaining their own edges, and lots of riders only get their edges done by shops, they worry that they'll screw up their edges, whereas waxing is pretty hard to screw up, and permanent damage from waxing you almost need to deliberately have to try to do it.
|01-28-2013 02:18 PM|
|triumph.man||worry about riding a lot before worrying about tuning|
|01-28-2013 02:06 PM|
|redlude97||just be aware that only does side edges, not the base. I would get this instead SWIX CARVING KIT #1 TUNE-UP FOR SKI & SNOWBOARD TA3005: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors|
|01-28-2013 01:48 PM|
So I just got my first snowboard, and have been reading into the maintenance I need to do to keep it in top shape.
I know what I'm doing in terms of waxing, but a bit confused about the edges, especially as my board has Grip Tech (Arbor Westmark) :s
I was going to use this:
Silverline 103526 320 Grit Pocket Diamond Sharpening Stone: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
to deburr the edges at the end of each day, and this:
Demon Edge Tuner Multi Snow Tool - White: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors
to sharpen them every 3-4 days.
Is that a good plan, or do I need to do anything else?
I am also aware I need to detune the edges at the contact points, but how does this work with Grip Tech? Do I have to detune the extra contact points as well?
Thanks for any help