|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-08-2013 06:00 PM|
|mhaas||Well of course the main attraction is powder snow! But ya I was refering to the all the crap you go over somethimes getting there and getting out. Like I said, Ive really only ridden one type of board so I dont have first hand experience on how other types boards handle the crud and refroze stuff and whatnot. I guess I gotta branch out.|
|02-08-2013 02:50 PM|
|killclimbz||Keep in mind a powder specific board will work fine on bob sled run type out trails too. The only place I might have reservations is an icy as shit couloir. Which if I was riding at a resort I might be worried about. If I find one in the BC, I am probably not going to do it. Risks are much higher out there.|
|02-08-2013 02:16 PM|
Originally Posted by killclimbz View Post
The board I have in mind is actually surprisingly light for being a mack-daddy, it's probably circa 2005 ish so not too old.
|02-08-2013 02:11 PM|
mhaas, if you are not riding mostly powder, it had better be svelte corn or I am going to the bar most of the time.
There is the mountaineering aspect. Which when I hear that just means to me that you are going to do crappy riding. So a powder specific shape is appropriate for splitting. On the last 10 splitboard outings I've done I've experienced, powder, powder, and oh yeah powder...
|02-08-2013 02:03 PM|
|mhaas||I might be speaking out of my ass here as I have only ridden cambered boards but a powder specific board might not be the best choice for your only splitboard. The reason being that you will encounter a whole bunch of different conditions in the BC, often on the same trip and you would want a board that can effectively handle them all. What are your thoughts guys? Id like to know as well since Im looking for a new board to split/buy.|
|02-08-2013 10:43 AM|
skip the waterjet, not worth the money, if you build guide making a straight clean cut is easy. I've always used a skill saw with nice carbide blade. use a fostner bit instead of a paddle bit for drilling the holes in the base for the tnuts.
make sure the board you pick has a solid wood core. (more common than not)
the first board i split was an high end board from option. They had milled out sections of the core to lighten it between the bindings. the tnuts holding the touring hardware didnt have much wood to bite into and the board ended up cracking in this area after three years of use.
|02-07-2013 11:07 PM|
|ShredLife||do it with a board that you know you like riding, and don't go killing the lighter weight factor by using some tank of a board... just sayin.|
|02-07-2013 11:05 PM|
Awesome, I think I might be taking this route. My dad is a finish carpenter (among many other things) so we have essentially a full wood shop.
He also has an old Burton powder board that's been collecting dust, which I think has "cut in half" written all over it
|02-07-2013 10:51 PM|
maybe the best thing about a DIY board is they're lighter - no inside edge or sidewall
re: sawing it in half is the hardest part - look around locally for a machine shop with a waterjet that will do the cut for you. prices usually range from $20-60 and it should be a perfect cut.
|02-07-2013 10:47 PM|
|linvillegorge||Another good thing about a DIY board is that once you buy the kit you can transfer it to other boards. Once you save up the cash, you can buy a factory split (Never Summer, Venture, Lib Tech, whatever) and use your kit from your DIY on it. Most brands other than Voile come with the board only, so you still need a kit and skins. You'll have that from your DIY if you decide to go that route.|
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