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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-28-2013 05:22 PM
wernersl
Quote:
Originally Posted by extra0 View Post
idk, my drip p-tex jobs look pretty good. You just have to not be sloppy (use metal scraper to catch rouge drips and keep the candle close to the gouge). When finished, scrape the overfill flush with a plastic scraper and brush with a wire brush to structure.

also, are you sure the shop didn't "weld" the gouge? Welding p-tex doesn't leave residue.
A

This^^. I use the metal scraper to both catch drips and clean the repair. Starting in the middle of the repair just use light pressure and start scraping. Once its all leveled off I use a brass brush to structure. Then wax. Now...If it is a deep core shot, Id take it in and have it welded or soldered in. The drip candles are not as effective for larger repairs.

Also...black seems to bond better. Use black.
02-28-2013 12:43 PM
chronicsmoke
Quote:
Originally Posted by herjazz View Post
One thing I do is use painter's tape (3M Blue tape, can get at Home Depot, etc.) and tape up the area around the part you are filling. This tape is non-sticky and comes right off. Then do your P-tex job and scrape. That way the extra stuff doesn't go on your board, but on the tape, so after you peel off the tape, the rest of your board is clean...


I didn't know that, thanks!
02-28-2013 12:09 PM
extra0 idk, my drip p-tex jobs look pretty good. You just have to not be sloppy (use metal scraper to catch rouge drips and keep the candle close to the gouge). When finished, scrape the overfill flush with a plastic scraper and brush with a wire brush to structure.

also, are you sure the shop didn't "weld" the gouge? Welding p-tex doesn't leave residue.
02-28-2013 09:49 AM
Enigmatic This was useful
02-28-2013 09:36 AM
onefutui2e
Quote:
Originally Posted by herjazz View Post
One thing I do is use painter's tape (3M Blue tape, can get at Home Depot, etc.) and tape up the area around the part you are filling. This tape is non-sticky and comes right off. Then do your P-tex job and scrape. That way the extra stuff doesn't go on your board, but on the tape, so after you peel off the tape, the rest of your board is clean...
well then, call me a dumbass. lol
02-28-2013 09:33 AM
herjazz One thing I do is use painter's tape (3M Blue tape, can get at Home Depot, etc.) and tape up the area around the part you are filling. This tape is non-sticky and comes right off. Then do your P-tex job and scrape. That way the extra stuff doesn't go on your board, but on the tape, so after you peel off the tape, the rest of your board is clean...
02-28-2013 09:11 AM
onefutui2e
Base Repair w/ P-Tex -Making it "Pretty"

Hey guys,

I started playing around with repairing my base with p-tex this season, just as an extracurricular activity and because I like fixing my own stuff. I watched some YouTube videos, read a few guides, bought some sticks, a metal scraper, etc. and got to work.

The p-text looked like it stuck and I scraped, buffed, and waxed my board and everything seems okay. The only "problem" I have is that it looks ugly as sin. When I overfill the gouges and scrape it away, there's still some residue left on the base itself that stays.

Earlier this season I had a gouge filled by a shop and it was very, very clean (pretty much just filled it and nothing more). This was all done with black p-tex on a white-ish base. I don't give a shit about looks, but I'm wondering how the shop was able to get the fill in so clean while mine looks unsightly. It doesn't help that almost all the YouTube examples I've watched has had people doing it black-on-black.

Is there some sort of magic ninja technique to base-filling? I was thinking maybe instead of dripping the p-tex onto the board directly, I use the metal scraper to kind of guide it in, but even that seems to require more precision that I have. Or is this simply a matter of the shop having more machinery at its disposal and that a DIYer like myself will never really approach the finish that they can achieve?

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