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Thread: Review / let down by Lib Tech Skunk Ape HP Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-27-2014 05:32 AM
dreampow
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexWhyte View Post
Maybe I should go with a proper powder then as a second board. Although I've only been in powder a couple of times (never been to cananda or japan)
You need to go. If you have 2 boards they should at least be very different IMO. The beauty of a proper powder board is it should last many years if you only get occasional dumps.
03-27-2014 03:30 AM
AlexWhyte Maybe I should go with a proper powder then as a second board. Although I've only been in powder a couple of times (never been to cananda or japan)
03-27-2014 03:02 AM
dreampow
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexWhyte View Post
I was just googling skunk ape (looking to buy another) and saw my old tread one up second on google so thought it only fair to post an update/new review

Reminder - had a skunk ape HP. The core must have snapped as the nose was creased and floppy. Also the top sheet on the HP models are dog shit. Totally soft and get cut up by anything.

Mervin were great. They sent me out a new board based on only pictures and explaining the damage. I got the non-HP skunk ape as a replacement as the top sheet is too soft.

Update now - love it! Been riding for about 5 weeks on and off. The manga traction holds amazingly on ice (was in New Hampshire, home of ice). I like the rocker feel for powder and basic buttering (although the board is probably stiffer than I'd like for most things). Saying that, it's very fast. I'm only on a 161 (and I'm heavy) and I can't help but bomb it.

I'm actually looking to buy a longer version of the same board. Maybe a 169 as I sink in powder more than I should (I'm 110kg/242lbs, 6'3").

As a side note. I bought a gnu space case 156cm and it feels like a more playful version of the skunk ape. I'm keeping that for day to day andgettingalonger ape for powder
Just to point out at your weight a full on powder deck will offer much better float. If you like lib the birdman is the way to go. I'd put you on a 180 if it was my choice.

Depends on where you ride (depth and type of powder and terrain) but here in Japan you would definitely want the 180.

Pair a proper powder board up with an all around mountain twin and you have the start of a nice quiver, boards for different occasions with different properties and feel. Just getting a longer twin like deck and a shorter one is a waste IMO.
03-27-2014 02:20 AM
AlexWhyte I was just googling skunk ape (looking to buy another) and saw my old tread one up second on google so thought it only fair to post an update/new review

Reminder - had a skunk ape HP. The core must have snapped as the nose was creased and floppy. Also the top sheet on the HP models are dog shit. Totally soft and get cut up by anything.

Mervin were great. They sent me out a new board based on only pictures and explaining the damage. I got the non-HP skunk ape as a replacement as the top sheet is too soft.

Update now - love it! Been riding for about 5 weeks on and off. The manga traction holds amazingly on ice (was in New Hampshire, home of ice). I like the rocker feel for powder and basic buttering (although the board is probably stiffer than I'd like for most things). Saying that, it's very fast. I'm only on a 161 (and I'm heavy) and I can't help but bomb it.

I'm actually looking to buy a longer version of the same board. Maybe a 169 as I sink in powder more than I should (I'm 110kg/242lbs, 6'3").

As a side note. I bought a gnu space case 156cm and it feels like a more playful version of the skunk ape. I'm keeping that for day to day andgettingalonger ape for powder
02-17-2014 08:06 AM
IceShredEC
Quote:
Originally Posted by East§ide View Post
Realistically Libtech (Mervin) isn't going to change the way they produce their boards because it has been a standard among their line for years now. I guess you take the good with the bad. The one thing I never understood was why Lib tends to be so much more expensive that other boards when they don't seem to be quite as durable
made in the US, which is more expensive.. and the materials they use tend to be more expensive. this does not exactly equate to durability..
07-19-2013 03:35 PM
jdang307 Experience with two Lib Tech/Gnu boards. Top sheets are definitely more fragile.

Still rides. But they get ugly real quick. NS is still gold. Flow has been decent (though base is soft on the Era). Lib + Arbor is about the same top sheet fragility wise.

All good boards though fuck it.
07-10-2013 10:20 AM
NWskunkAPE Odd....Love my Skunk HP.....Best board I ever riden. Sold my NS Legacy and GNU...They were clunkers compared to it
04-21-2013 02:55 PM
t21
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidj View Post
Interesting... I took a look at the video and filed the top sheet on my boards. Pulled out my Never Summer boards out last and was surprised to note that the top edge came already beveled from the factory.

Dang... these Never Summer guys are the Honda of the snowboard industry. Well engineered down to the minutest detail .
I also check out that video then looked at my Ride Antic, i need to file mine.but... i checked my new board Status Focus which is supposedly built at the NS factory and it is already beveled lucky me
04-21-2013 11:59 AM
davidj
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexWhyte View Post
Take a look at this for tapering edges to reduce damage.
snowboard community forums - do this to your board everyone - Page 1
Interesting... I took a look at the video and filed the top sheet on my boards. Pulled out my Never Summer boards out last and was surprised to note that the top edge came already beveled from the factory.

Dang... these Never Summer guys are the Honda of the snowboard industry. Well engineered down to the minutest detail .
04-21-2013 11:40 AM
davidj
Quote:
Originally Posted by East§ide View Post
I don't disagree that Mervin has been doing it like that for a long time, but I definitely disagree that a steel edge wouldn't stop alot of those splits and cracks in the top sheet from happening. I don't think it's any coincidence that it seems to happen 99% of the time in the tip and tail
I had an oooold Gnu, circa 2001 I believe. Bought it used in 2010. No wrap around edges, but bullet proof. I shredded the tips banging it on the asphalt to shake off snow before throwing it in the car. Took the usual beating from other boards and skis for two seasons. But not even close to the delams and other damage I saw on much newer Mervin boards on the slopes. And nothing more than my 2011 Rossi with wraparound edges sustained with similar amounts and types of riding.

Of course, the thing was a tank, much heavier than today's boards.

While I'd rather have wraparound edges than not, it seems that good construction quality > wraparound edges.
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