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Thread: How do you fix deep nicks and dinge in the edge? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-14-2013 02:54 PM
Lamps
Quote:
Originally Posted by bseracka View Post
Edges are made from steel, it's why they rust
Some are stainless steel and don't rust.
04-13-2013 07:36 PM
bseracka
Quote:
Originally Posted by destroy View Post
JB Weld isn't a bad idea. It's used as a homemade and makeshift repair for all kinds of stuff. Surprising how good it works, really. It really can't damage your edges. Edges are made of aluminum, aren't they? We're not talking about some exotic space age material in most cases. It's definitely worth a try... worst that can happen is it falls off or wears out and you can scrape the residue off. Highly unlikely that the bond is good enough to take the edge with it when it goes.
Edges are made from steel, it's why they rust
04-13-2013 04:52 PM
Bones I've had good and poor luck with J-B weld on different things. It doesn't flex and expand like metal so I've had it pop out after large temperature changes.

That said, if and when it does come off, it doesn't damage anything so you're no farther behind
04-13-2013 03:03 PM
destroy JB Weld isn't a bad idea. It's used as a homemade and makeshift repair for all kinds of stuff. Surprising how good it works, really. It really can't damage your edges. Edges are made of aluminum, aren't they? We're not talking about some exotic space age material in most cases. It's definitely worth a try... worst that can happen is it falls off or wears out and you can scrape the residue off. Highly unlikely that the bond is good enough to take the edge with it when it goes.
04-06-2013 12:49 PM
pdxrealtor I filed most of them out, I wanted to go back to OEM specs on bevels so took advantage of the need to file and went to a 0 base 1 side wall bevel.

Got most of the nicks out. There was one that was too deep and half moon shaped. I tried to file that area with hand file at 45* which worked but it seems impossible to now get that area sharp. It was a long shot but I thought I'd try it. At least I don't have a huge gouge grabbing the snow.

The bottom of my board is convex, and I have no clue why since it had a mild base grind end of last season. I'm going to take it in and talk to them about it and see where it goes. I'd like the base flat......

Jb weld sounds like a good idea. We used the plumber putty type to fill bolt holes on the bottom of our jetskis and gained 1 mph on the water. We'd grind it smooth with air grinders so it is strong stuff. I don't know how it work on such a small are though, and in the snow.
04-05-2013 04:00 PM
CassMT pics!

if its 1/2 way up from the base i'd get a shop base sanding, as was said

if its 1/2 way in on the sidewall edge, id do my best with my own filing and such..if the sidewall is in the way, a shop will have a sidewall grinder, like a router, to remove 1/16" or so of sidewall material, so you can file deeper

in any case, try to get a new deck before next season, call this one your rockboard from here on out
04-05-2013 03:12 PM
SilverSurfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdod View Post
its not that, id rather file it down... im not here to argue with you...
If you read the OP he says that the nick is over half way through the edge. That is something you cant file out, it needs to be filled in.
04-05-2013 03:12 PM
BurtonAvenger The guy doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground, a crank case is a lot different than an edge. The best way is to take the edge down to get rid of it but then you also are taking away from the edge taking away from its lifespan. It's a give or take.
04-05-2013 02:11 PM
andrewdod its not that, id rather file it down... im not here to argue with you...
04-05-2013 01:57 PM
SilverSurfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdod View Post
yeah, i just dont like the idea of an outside compound going on my edge. i feel like it could have some adverse effects
If you prefer a big ass nick in your edge slowing you down, then dont do it.
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