|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-23-2013 12:25 PM|
Originally Posted by neni View Post
|04-23-2013 12:07 PM|
From my own experiences, I used to never have forward lean. Rode just fine for 3-4 seasons without any complaints. But this season I started playing around with the lean one notch at a time. Every time I push it a bit forward I notice dramatic improvements to my board performance.
I can carve harder, feel more stable at higher speeds, and turn a lot quicker than before. It does burn out my legs a lot faster than before but over time I got used to it. Without forward lean I struggle a little going down moguls and black runs but with the proper lean I'm able to ride through them with a certain... fluidity and style o.O
|04-16-2013 10:47 AM|
Originally Posted by chomps1211 View Post
The longer/wider the board I ride and the more aggressive I want to carve, the more I need (!) all the weapons (forward highback, stiff boots, stiff binding, both very tight) to transfer my weight on the edge. The amount of Newton one can force is limited by ones weight and musclepower. The more direct you get this force via boots/highback/bindings to the edge, the less of this max force you loose. A heavier rider on the same board puts already a lot more force on the edge simply by the fact that he has more weight.
But too much fwd lean, and you loose balance and the ability to do mini adjustments with the ankles
Originally Posted by chomps1211 View Post
which inserts? binding more to the front or backside edge? which angle? position of the wedgie bed? highback? straps? and everything can be optimized differently for front and hind leg
the first days on a new setup I ride with a pocket screwdriver in the bagpack. it's like with a new romance, you need become acquainted with the lady, what she likes, what she doesn't, what's needed to persuade her
|04-16-2013 10:02 AM|
Second season rider, I learned to ride on a board that was way beyond my abilities, a 2010/11 Arbor Roundhouse 163W. I was 6ft - 200 lbs (..I'm since up 20-25 lbs!) 10.5 wide shoe trying to fit in 11 sized SB boots.
...So, as it turns out,.. I was on the wrong sized board right from the start! I was sold on the wide board by the salesman when I didn't really need one!
The point of telling you that was I have to have a LOT of forward lean dialed into the L Burton Cartels on this board to be able to ride it. I have since acquired 2 reg width boards and I ride them with No or very little forward lean on M Cartel bindings. (Seems I also prefer my forward lean dialed in asymmetrically. More on the front foot, less on the rear!)
If I'm understanding the information being posted here, I "needed" all that FWD lean on that board because of it actually being too wide for my foot? Without all that lean, It was WAY harder to get the leverage needed to get it to carve properly?? I know I've tried M bindings on it twice and it didn't ride for shit! Highback was too short and base of binding very small on board. Not much toe leverage either as the fulcrum point of the M binding was too far back from toe edge?
Because I needed all that lean on the wider board, I thought it was something I would prefer regardless of which board I rode! I was obviously wrong about that. I'm trying to learn about & get a handle on on all these big and little variables that seem to have such a HUGE impact on an individuals riding!
The more I learn about all this shit,.. the more amazed I am that I was able to learn to ride at all let alone pick it up, (...the basics anyway.) and progress as quickly I have!
A Three days riding NooB! (...including the day of the lesson!) Buying, riding an Advanced cambered directional, Wrong size board, wrong boots, Way too narrow stance, etc. etc.
...and STILL I managed to fall totally in love with this sport!!!
Thanks all you guys 'n' gals for all the great info that I can access here!
|04-16-2013 02:22 AM|
The forward lean I select depends on the board and the time of season. At the beginning of the season muscles are still a bit weak so not too much forward lean. As muscles get stronger the first couples of days/weeks, I adjust notch by notch. Finally on front leg (+21) in the second most and hind (+3) 3rd most forward notch. Not that important on a softer/shorter board and also not if riding pow. But if on groomer on a long/stiff board and the aim is carving, I need this forward lean especially of the front leg to get the best backside turns.
Even more important (and often neglected) is the torsional adjustment of the highback, depending on your angles. They should be parallel to the backside edge of the board...
Originally Posted by timmytard View Post
|04-15-2013 03:03 PM|
different bindings have different amounts of forward lean when set to (0) I had some old technines and burtons that had way to much lean when set to Zero and had to remove the flad to get the right amount
highback flex has a lot to do with it too, I'll set a softer highback up with more lean then a stiff one, because the soft one flexes back with initial contact. I have metal highbacks on my bent metals and they dont flex at all meaning i run less lean and get the same response. Too much lean with some highbacks will cause calf bite depending on the boot, also it makes you look like your taking a poop while you traverse heelside.
splitboard bindings (sparks and kara's) go past 0 to around -10 degrees to allow more freedom when touring, if you ride them in that setting you will notice the lack of heel side power.
|04-15-2013 01:53 PM|
Originally Posted by TheNorminator View Post
Without it you are relying on your ankles & the stiffness of your boots to carve heelside.
Your ankles are nowhere near strong enough to keep your toes from pointing down.
Not just halfpipe guys have them cranked forward, I have mine set to more than half on most of my boards.
I can pretty much guarantee, you would not be able to ride it with them cranked all the way forward.
This is THE most finicky adjustment you can make on a binding.
As little as one notch too far forward can make it down right scary.
As well as your knees being forced to bend, that also gives the feeling that your toeside edge is going to dig in causing you to eat shit @ lightening speed.
Maybe you might be able to ride with them all the way forward one day, but this adjustment needs to be done in small increments & each time will take a few runs to get used to.
To start with, most bindings when set @ no forward lean can't be felt @ all.
Even the first or second notch sometimes can't be noticed, @ whatever spot they are set @, when you start to feel it & you will feel it.
From that spot you will want to only move it in increments of one spot.
Each time you move it even 1 spot, you will probably need to get used to it before you can move it one more spot.
When you think you have found your desired forward lean, put it 1 notch farther forward.
That's where it should be, you're just not used to it yet.
After fuckin' around with your setup & getting it perfect, which takes a few times.
It will be hard to tell if it really changed the way your board rides, because of the small increments
But if you ever hop on someone elses board that doesn't have their forward lean set forward THAT'S when you will see the difference.
You will then realize the importance of forward lean, cause their board is gonna ride like shit, regardless of the quality of board.
|04-15-2013 07:47 AM|
Originally Posted by Fiziks View Post
Originally Posted by roboelmo View Post
|04-15-2013 02:26 AM|
|mr_____awesome||Im a freerider, and i ride with 0 lean because it feels more comfortable to me some lean might make edge to edge a little faster but i think ... Comfort > Edge to edge. Just test it out and find what feels the best for you.|
|12-20-2012 09:57 AM|
Originally Posted by Bear5001 View Post
How much lean or w.e. should be used? It's preference. Everyone is different, though we all follow a general rule of thumb:
Forward lean = good for carvers/all mountain use...helps with weight transfer. No Lean = Good for jibs as there is neutral weight transfer, meaning more stable/flat base
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