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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-02-2009, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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How to Survive a Free Solo

One lucky son of a bitch.

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-02-2009, 04:36 PM
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How is that guy still alive? No helmet either. Crazy!
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-02-2009, 04:46 PM
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Damn, I'd be...screwed
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-02-2009, 10:51 PM
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....................................
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2009, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roremc View Post
How is that guy still alive? No helmet either. Crazy!
Yeah, that was a big fall. At least it wasn't from a multi pitch route. My only guess is that he slowed himself down enough grabbing the rope that he didn't reach a high enough velocity to kill himself. Regardless he had to be sore and I am sure his hands had some horrible burns.

The famous free soloist John Bachar died on a similar one pitch route in Mammoth over the summer. Of course there were no ropes around for him to grab.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2009, 09:21 AM
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this should be called...how to be a dumbass. you say lucky SOB, i say cocky sob. granted it was a a 5.9 that an experienced climber should be able to walk up but this is why so much r&d goes into climbing protection/safety equipment. the rope was right there, no excuse not to tie in and use a belayer imo. shit happens...i've seen many of experienced climbers lose footing on climbs that they have been climbing for years. in fact over the summer i saw a guy that has been climbing for 25 years lose a foot on a route that him and his buddies put up years ago.

Passion Over Fashion
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2009, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to call it lucky. Free soloing has been a huge part of the sport since the beginning. Peter Croft doing the first free solo of Astroman was ground breaking and unrepeated for over 20 years I believe. To this date, Peter Croft and Dean Potter are the only people to free solo that line. Is it crazy at that level? Yes to a degree, but these things open eyes imo. It's also true that many of the great soloist have died doing that very thing. Derek Hersey and John Bachar come to mind. I had met them both. Amazing people and the climbing world is a little less without them.

I've also done plenty of free solo's or what has amounted to a free solo on my own. Low grade stuff for sure. Tying into a rope is no guarantee of safety. Especially when your last piece of pro is 10ft above the belay and you are 100ft out from that. Might as well drop the rope, except that your second wants a belay.

So yeah, this dude was lucky. He better go back and seriously think about why he was soloing. There are no room for errors. I can agree that perhaps being a soloist is not really the best idea for him...
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2009, 11:58 AM
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Crazyness! For some entertainment on the same subject watch some of Dan Osman's vids! That dude was definitely NUTS!


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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2009, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Good 'ol Danny Osman. He was a good guy too. Hung out with him at Camp 4 in Yosemite back in the day. Drank some beer and smoked up with him. He had just got done climbing some hard 5.12+/13- slab route on the Glacier Point Apron. So mellow. You'd never know what a maniac he was by talking to him. Another great one lost, though it wasn't due to free soloing.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 05:37 PM
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i just dont get it. i mean.... just a buy a ladder.

Just coz you don't understand it
Doesn't mean it makes no sense!
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