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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-05-2008, 11:08 PM
fuzzysnowboard
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Nitro makes good snowboards.
The dream raider (I personally think) is more for carving/freeride. If you want a nitro you might want to get a black light. You could get one on ebay or a 2008 model because it would be cheaper for around 250-400.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-05-2008, 11:39 PM
bokken
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Finally...

Ok, so I think I have almost made a decision...

I am thinking a 158 cm Atomic Dreamraider 2008. Someone, let me know if I should get Cold Smoke or Radon over Dreamraider for all mountain, or some board that would be bigger.
Either Rome 390 bindings or Ride Beta Bindings. I will be checking my boot size to find the binding size this weekend.
On that subject, earlier I was told that Tagra was better than the 390's; how much better is it than the 390 LE's?
As for boots, I will go into a local shop and try things on and either find my size and buy online or buy from a shop.

Seeing that, what are your opinions? I have heard good things about DC boots, and I will ask people in the store, but there is a high chance that they won't know anything. I have read about what to look for as far as sizing goes when wearing the boots, but is there any more I should look out for or brands to really look at/stay away from?

Thanks for everything.

bokken
post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-05-2008, 11:57 PM
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Targa is stiffer.

THERE ARE SPECIFIC REASONS AS TO WHY I AM MORE LOCAL THAN YOU

GOD IS DONUT
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 09:15 PM
fuzzysnowboard
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The dream raider isn't really an all mountain. Maybe a 160 cold smoke? I vote the romes. Targa's are a little bit stiffer but they still can be used for freestyle.
Good ones:
Rome
Nitro
Burton
32
Northwave

Boots pack out to about half a size.
post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 12:44 PM
bokken
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Unfortunately, the Romes appear to be a little too far out of my price range (by about $100 from the lowest price for any of the boards I saw). What is the rating between Cold Smoke and Radon. Looking at the atomic web-site, I would have thought that the Dreamraider was the best all mountain out of the three, but after hearing this, I am not sure what to get. Looking at the new list of boards, I can see myself at least looking at Nitro as something to buy, but when looking at their personal rating of their boards, they gave everything except one or two boards a fairly low rating in all mountain and freeride. What would you guys suggest as far as Nitro goes and how does that compare to the Cold Smoke and Radon?

By the way, thanks for the advice about the 390's over the Tagra. I was leaning towards them originally, and now will probably get them. Only possible question is how do they rate compared to the Ride Beta's?

Thanks for all your help.

bokken
post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 04:13 PM
Fallen Saint
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My advise Bokken is to buy your boots first. Lot of people think it's the deck that is most important but it's not. Lets face it, you may not like it but you can ride any deck and binds as long as they fit and aren't trashed. Boots man, it's all about the boots. That's what houses the dogs and keeps 'em comfy and taken care of so you can keep riding. Find a pair and size that are comfortable but snug. If you have like a shoe place close by that has a foot measure scale, go in and get your foot measured and then you'll have a better idea of what size you'll need for boots. Keep in mind that after some time in them the boots will break in and give a little more room. And if you want to talk to someone at a shop that knows his stuff about the boots call 1-800-800-1953 (Berg's Ski & Snowboard Shop) and ask for Ryan. That guy is solid.
Something else to consider is just getting one item at a time since you can't just drop it all at once. I know it sucks coz you really want your own rig but it makes it a lot easier to get the quality stuff you want. I dropped $225 on my DC Allegiance boots (regular like 300), $190 on Rome Targa bindings (HIGHLY suggest) and another $500 on my Skate Banana deck. If you go this route of patience I would definitely suggest, at the least, checking out boots with the BOA system. It's a little odd at first getting used to the metal laces but man BOA is hella nice! I'll never go back to standard laces in boots
post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 04:26 PM
bokken
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Thanks for the advice Fallen. When I go home for Thanksgiving, I am planning on going into one or more of the sports stores in the area and trying on boots to buy, see what fits, get the size down so I at least know that and hopefully find some boots that are decent. Either way (having boots that I am looking at or not), I will try to call Ryan and ask his advice and see what is around and his personal and professional opinion.
Because this is a Christmas present and the first snowboard that I am buying, I can't get small parts of it at a time and need to get the entire set at once, and because it is from my parents I want something that will last, but I can imagine how bad fitting boots would be bad. Just walking in shoes that are too tight kill the feet, never mind going 6+ hours for multiple days in big boots. Besides having a BOA system, is there anything else to look for in boots? Any companies to stay away from? Any companies to look at closely? I have seen a lot of talk about DC and heard a little about ThirtyTwo. What else should I look at to make sure I have a reputable company that I end up buying from?

Thanks for your help.

bokken
post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 02:28 AM
Fallen Saint
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Honestly I don't want to sound like a know it all coz I don't. All I can give you is my opinion from personal experience. I like DC but I haven't had a lot of experience outside of DC and rental boots. Personally though, I would definitely recommend DC boots from my experience with them. I had Judges (also BOA and not as hard on the wallet) before I got the Allegiances. Other than DC, my buddy rides Rome and loves their boots & bindings. I've heard good things about Vans and 32 also. The only thing I can tell you about companies to stay away from is to look at the companies history and see if they started in snowboarding or if they started in ski equipment. A lot of the ones that started in ski equipment have problems with their snowboard gear like Rossignol. While others like Nidecker don't have much of a rep in the US market (lack of marketing vision until recently) and while Nidecker got started in ski's they have a good rep in Europe for making quality snowboards. My buddy over in England rides a nidecker and a rome board. Can't remember which if all his all mountain and which is park though.
As far as boot features go, the 3 things I look for in boots is BOA (of course), heat mold inner (just means that the interior padding is unshaped until you wear the boot and then your body heat activates the padding and allows it to conform to the shape of your foot), and a good heel retention device (I'm sure you know how much it can hurt and wear you out with your heel slipping up constantly). But the biggest thing is like everyone says, comfort. More important than any feature is finding one that fits good and feels good.
Again I want to emphasis I'm not a pro rider and this is just my personal opinion that others (are free to) may disagree with. But I hope it helps man. Definitely let us know what you decide to go with and how it works out for you bro.
Snowboard Boots - Forum, Burton, ThirtyTwo, Northwave, Deeluxe, Salomon, Vans - a2zBoardShop.com Might help in trying to find a good deal on whatever you decide to go with.
post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 02:40 AM
bokken
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Thanks so much Fallen, and everyone else who has helped me. I will stay on and read any other comments anyone else makes and ask some questions when I need answers, one that I can ask now: what do I need to look out for/do to mount my bindings myself? I have two options, one being take it into a shop to do it for me, the other being to do it myself, and with how much work went into choosing the board and bindings, and the boots soon enough, I feel like I should do it, for knowledge on how to do it and actually making this entire board myself (or buying all the parts I need. I am not good enough to carve my own board or anything), but I won't have a board for a little while and that can wait. But is there is a special tool I need to screw the bindings in?

But again, more important than getting an answer, thanks to everyone who helped me. I know it may not seem like much, but you helped me a lot.

May the powder be good under your boards.

bokken
post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 03:05 AM
Fallen Saint
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lol I saw you had already responded again and I was like d@mn! can't believe I'm not the only one still up this late. Then I saw you were in Cali lol
Ok so anyway, as far as I know most bindings don't require special tool of any kind. Just a good old fashion screw driver or wrench.
And definitely do it yourself. Check the stuff when you get it. Lay it out and make sure you have duplicates of everything and that it looks like you have screws for all the holes and stuff. If you go with Rome bindings I know you can do it yourself easy and I can't imagine it being too different with other binding makers.
And the one thing I say look out for is something called "Cross threading." It's easy to do when you're placing metal screws/bolts into metal holes. What happens is you don't get the screw/bolt threads lined up with the threads inside the holes so that when you start screwing them in the threads actually end up cutting through each other, and then you just power through tightening them in thinking it's a tight fit till it locks up part of the way in and won't budge. The problem is that if you do this the only way to fix it is to get new screws/bolts and have the holes filled and re-tapped (EXPENSIVE). Luckily it's VERY easy to prevent.
When you first place the screw/bolt in the hole, before you start tightening in it, turn it counter clockwise (that's right like you are trying to unscrew it) this causes the threads of the screw to run backward against the threads in the hole (no pressure = no damage) and seats them better, so that when you start screwing it in it slides in right. Just be sure to hold the screw/bolt straight and it's all good from there dude.
Other than that, it's just a matter of making sure you have the binding width and stance degrees set like you want them.
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