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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 05:39 AM
krazykay5487
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Waxing help

When you wax your board after scraping should you scrub it with a scotch bright pad? or do you use a nylon brush on it first? I have seen it done both ways. Is there a correct way?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 07:13 AM
izibo
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Originally Posted by krazykay5487 View Post
When you wax your board after scraping should you scrub it with a scotch bright pad? or do you use a nylon brush on it first? I have seen it done both ways. Is there a correct way?
I vote scotch brite since I think it does a better job of picking up those bigger spots of wax that you may have missed or only half done on the scraper. Plus, they are a lot cheaper than a nylon brush

Here is what I do: bronze brush -> base cleaner -> wax -> scrape -> scotch brite -> nylon brush -> horsehair brush
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 07:22 AM
VinXXX
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A little known trick I picked up on a youtube tutorial makes sense as well. Loosen off your binding screws before you wax your board. When the screws are tight, they (obviously) pull up, thus holding the base tight. By loosening the crews, the base retains its natural shape, so there's no permanent depression created by the heat of the iron underfoot. And make sure your wax barely melts, i've found the lower the temp. the better the results. if your wax smokes, iron's way to hot. One last tip, before you scrape and buff, put your board outside so the wax is as cold as can be, that way the base has absorbed it and tightened right back up. Don't forget to snug your screws once you're all done.
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 07:34 AM
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Do you need a fancy Toko type iron or will a cheap no steam iron work? How do you avoid melting your base if you use a cheap iron - any settings recommended?

Thanks!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 07:39 AM
VinXXX
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A 12$ wal mart iron will usually work just fine. As long as the wax doesn't smoke it's all good. Remember, the guy at the shop trying to sell you a 50$ brand name iron, it's his job to get your money.
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 08:21 AM
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A 12$ wal mart iron will usually work just fine. As long as the wax doesn't smoke it's all good. Remember, the guy at the shop trying to sell you a 50$ brand name iron, it's his job to get your money.
Thanks - much appreciated!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 08:50 AM
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Honestly you are way better off just buying a board waxing iron. When I went in to the shop they were selling bakoda irons for around 25 canadian which is just a bit more than a shitty iron but results in a better wax job and much less hasle.

Shredding the ice coast, one hill at a time....
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 08:57 AM
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25 bucks for a sure shot isn't a bad deal either...
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 09:07 AM
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25 bucks for a sure shot isn't a bad deal either...
Our local shop i blowing stick out for 50% off - maybe I can get a toko for cheap
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 09:30 AM
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Honestly you are way better off just buying a board waxing iron. When I went in to the shop they were selling bakoda irons for around 25 canadian which is just a bit more than a shitty iron but results in a better wax job and much less hasle.
I had a waxing iron for a long time but it disappeared in a move, so I've been waxing with a $12 Walmart iron ever since.

Honestly, there's not much difference. A true waxing iron has finer temperature control whcich is nice for adding powders, etc. into the mix and a smaller surface area without the steam holes which made it easier to manipulate and to clean. If you can get one cheap, then it's worth the extra $10 or $20. When the prices difference goes above that, then personally, I'd rather spend it on some nice diamond stones or file holders.
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