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#2 (permalink) | |
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Guest
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Quote:
![]() Here is what I do: bronze brush -> base cleaner -> wax -> scrape -> scotch brite -> nylon brush -> horsehair brush |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Guest
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A little known trick I picked up on a youtube tutorial makes sense as well. Loosen off your binding screws before you wax your board. When the screws are tight, they (obviously) pull up, thus holding the base tight. By loosening the crews, the base retains its natural shape, so there's no permanent depression created by the heat of the iron underfoot. And make sure your wax barely melts, i've found the lower the temp. the better the results. if your wax smokes, iron's way to hot. One last tip, before you scrape and buff, put your board outside so the wax is as cold as can be, that way the base has absorbed it and tightened right back up. Don't forget to snug your screws once you're all done.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: an igloo in Canada
Posts: 290
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Honestly you are way better off just buying a board waxing iron. When I went in to the shop they were selling bakoda irons for around 25 canadian which is just a bit more than a shitty iron but results in a better wax job and much less hasle.
__________________
Shredding the ice coast, one hill at a time.... |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 826
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Quote:
Honestly, there's not much difference. A true waxing iron has finer temperature control whcich is nice for adding powders, etc. into the mix and a smaller surface area without the steam holes which made it easier to manipulate and to clean. If you can get one cheap, then it's worth the extra $10 or $20. When the prices difference goes above that, then personally, I'd rather spend it on some nice diamond stones or file holders. |
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