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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 05:11 PM
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Check this out, modeled it in solid works. This is just the frame in isometric view. It looks like its all one solid piece, but itll be built of 2x4's and i dont know how to put parts together in the program yet. but you get the idea! ill put a picture up later with it all finished! rigged a way to chain it down in the bed of my truck!
gotta love CAD programs and EGR



what do you think!?
i built one pretty much exactly like this. it is pretty heavy, but its built to last.
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 05:31 PM
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I would build one but seeing as there's no place to put mine, I can't. But good luck on building yours.
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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-24-2009, 01:21 AM
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.

I would build it half the width, take out the middle supports as they are just extra weight for nothing. Also now that it is half the width you can make two of them which will fit in the back of a truck easily, then you have twice the length. Its also good because then its more of a ledge than a box, so you have to use more balance while sliding it rather than just jumping onto a wide flat surface.

Also, short boxes get boring fast, so your going to want something where you can lock in a slide for a decent amount of time.

So in my opinion build two or three ledges that connect to each other.
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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-24-2009, 04:56 AM
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Yeah I agree short boxes and rails are so limiting. My first was 8ft and after about an hour I was already trying to fig out how to build a longer one.
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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 02:50 PM
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i have a bunch f boxes i use for my back yard park what is the cheapest thing to use to resurface them but still decent quality
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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 03:41 PM
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i have a bunch f boxes i use for my back yard park what is the cheapest thing to use to resurface them but still decent quality
Nice 3-year thread bump. If you read through this thread, your question has been answered several times.
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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 08:13 PM
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Nice 3-year thread bump. If you read through this thread, your question has been answered several times.

-I'm Slyder and I suffer from "Gummer Syndrome"
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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 03:47 PM
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sorry to bump this, but there is a lot of great info. I'm trying to build a 8-10 ft box for a backyard and was wondering on the thickness. read people used everything from 1/4" to 1/2" and was wondering if there was any feed back? HDPE is where I'm going as funds are limited, but if 1/4" works, I might be able to spring for UHMW.

sounds very thin to countersink the screws, or are people just gorilla gluing this to a sheet of plywood?

-zakk
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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 09:09 PM
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I countersink deep into my 1/4. And it's now 6 seasons on the same UHMW poly. Worth the investment. I'll see if I have any pics of the countersink depth. If not I'll take some.
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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 02:07 PM
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I countersink deep into my 1/4. And it's now 6 seasons on the same UHMW poly. Worth the investment. I'll see if I have any pics of the countersink depth. If not I'll take some.
good to know. i was getting quotes on 1/2" UHMW so we'll see about the 1/4" stuff. transport to tahoe (3 hour drive) to my buddies place where we are building it might be an issue as well, but first things first.

-zakk
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