Box im building - Page 4 - Snowboarding Forum

avenged1985 · 11-23-2009, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by somebodyelse5

Check this out, modeled it in solid works. This is just the frame in isometric view. It looks like its all one solid piece, but itll be built of 2x4's and i dont know how to put parts together in the program yet. but you get the idea! ill put a picture up later with it all finished! rigged a way to chain it down in the bed of my truck!
gotta love CAD programs and EGR

what do you think!?

i built one pretty much exactly like this. it is pretty heavy, but its built to last.

iKimshi · 11-23-2009, 04:31 PM

I would build one but seeing as there's no place to put mine, I can't. But good luck on building yours.

jaaxnikols · 11-24-2009, 12:21 AM

I would build it half the width, take out the middle supports as they are just extra weight for nothing. Also now that it is half the width you can make two of them which will fit in the back of a truck easily, then you have twice the length. Its also good because then its more of a ledge than a box, so you have to use more balance while sliding it rather than just jumping onto a wide flat surface.

Also, short boxes get boring fast, so your going to want something where you can lock in a slide for a decent amount of time.

So in my opinion build two or three ledges that connect to each other.

Extremo · 11-24-2009, 03:56 AM

Yeah I agree short boxes and rails are so limiting. My first was 8ft and after about an hour I was already trying to fig out how to build a longer one.

seshcrew · 10-16-2012, 01:50 PM

i have a bunch f boxes i use for my back yard park what is the cheapest thing to use to resurface them but still decent quality

ComeBack_Kid · 10-16-2012, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seshcrew

i have a bunch f boxes i use for my back yard park what is the cheapest thing to use to resurface them but still decent quality

Nice 3-year thread bump. If you read through this thread, your question has been answered several times.

slyder · 10-16-2012, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ComeBack_Kid

Nice 3-year thread bump. If you read through this thread, your question has been answered several times.

zakk · 12-04-2012, 02:47 PM

sorry to bump this, but there is a lot of great info. I'm trying to build a 8-10 ft box for a backyard and was wondering on the thickness. read people used everything from 1/4" to 1/2" and was wondering if there was any feed back? HDPE is where I'm going as funds are limited, but if 1/4" works, I might be able to spring for UHMW.

¼ sounds very thin to countersink the screws, or are people just gorilla gluing this to a sheet of plywood?

Extremo · 12-04-2012, 08:09 PM

I countersink deep into my 1/4. And it's now 6 seasons on the same UHMW poly. Worth the investment. I'll see if I have any pics of the countersink depth. If not I'll take some.

zakk · 12-05-2012, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Extremo

I countersink deep into my 1/4. And it's now 6 seasons on the same UHMW poly. Worth the investment. I'll see if I have any pics of the countersink depth. If not I'll take some.

good to know. i was getting quotes on 1/2" UHMW so we'll see about the 1/4" stuff. transport to tahoe (3 hour drive) to my buddies place where we are building it might be an issue as well, but first things first.

11-24-2009, 12:21 AM	#33 (permalink)
jaaxnikols Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: British Columbia Posts: 90	. I would build it half the width, take out the middle supports as they are just extra weight for nothing. Also now that it is half the width you can make two of them which will fit in the back of a truck easily, then you have twice the length. Its also good because then its more of a ledge than a box, so you have to use more balance while sliding it rather than just jumping onto a wide flat surface. Also, short boxes get boring fast, so your going to want something where you can lock in a slide for a decent amount of time. So in my opinion build two or three ledges that connect to each other.

12-04-2012, 02:47 PM	#38 (permalink)
zakk Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 612	sorry to bump this, but there is a lot of great info. I'm trying to build a 8-10 ft box for a backyard and was wondering on the thickness. read people used everything from 1/4" to 1/2" and was wondering if there was any feed back? HDPE is where I'm going as funds are limited, but if 1/4" works, I might be able to spring for UHMW. ¼ sounds very thin to countersink the screws, or are people just gorilla gluing this to a sheet of plywood? __________________ -zakk

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11-23-2009, 04:31 PM	#32 (permalink)
iKimshi Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 378	I would build one but seeing as there's no place to put mine, I can't. But good luck on building yours.

11-24-2009, 03:56 AM	#34 (permalink)
Extremo -LIFETIME MEMBER- Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: NH Posts: 3,121	Yeah I agree short boxes and rails are so limiting. My first was 8ft and after about an hour I was already trying to fig out how to build a longer one.

10-16-2012, 01:50 PM	#35 (permalink)
seshcrew Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: canada Posts: 2 Blog Entries: 2	i have a bunch f boxes i use for my back yard park what is the cheapest thing to use to resurface them but still decent quality

12-04-2012, 08:09 PM	#39 (permalink)
Extremo -LIFETIME MEMBER- Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: NH Posts: 3,121	I countersink deep into my 1/4. And it's now 6 seasons on the same UHMW poly. Worth the investment. I'll see if I have any pics of the countersink depth. If not I'll take some.