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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Ptex Repairs?

Hey, I've realized I'm probably gonna accumulate some digs in my board until rock-season is over, because after riding my Evo I REALLY don't want to go back to my Hatchet with the fucked up Customs on it.

From what I understand you can use something like a Ptex gun, or you can drip hot Ptex into the groove and then sand it smooth. Would like to learn how to do this because I'm sure the resort price for Ptex repairs is ungodly, not to mention I can make them whenever I want.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 09:16 PM
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I think the way to get the best results is with a ptex gun but they do cost a lot more than just using a stick of the stuff and a lighter. Ive only ever used a stick because it came with my tuning kit. The way to do it is to just light the end of the stick on with a lighter or something and try to keep the flame blue then just drip the ptex into the crack. After you drip the ptex in let it cool off then scrape it and wax. The thing about using the sticks is that if you use the clear stuff it has a tendency to burn and turn it into more of a brown color, but if you use the black stuff it seems to maintain a solid black color and look decent. Last year i used the clear stuff on my board and it kinda turned brown when i put it in. I was kind of pissed that it happened but I eventually just accepted it. The repair has held up really well so far and if it starts to wear away its not hard at all to drop some more into it. Of course if you get the gun i hear you don't really have any of those problems because it takes most of the guess work out as you just fire the stuff into the scratch let it cool and scrape. I plan to pick one up later this year once i get some more cash.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 11:39 PM
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As the post above stated if you use the clear the carbon burns in it. Constantly rotating the stick is a good way to avoid that and also to simply blow out the flame on the stick after you see you have some drippage and as if it were a crayon rub the wet end to the gash a few times, will take a little longer but it's also a safer option to avoid burning,Really shouldn't need a p-tex gun, just do a couple practice drips on some paper till you can avoid the charing. it's pretty simple

and then simply a plastic scraper which you probably already have if you wax to scrape off any excess p-tex when it dries



Day was good till about 10:15 haha, once great escape broke everyone but a few nubs had to congregate on the express... I bailed around 11. Had some good runs till then though . ran over who knows how many rocks going through the pow, yay for rock boards and not caring cause it was worth it

Last edited by Method; 11-26-2010 at 11:43 PM.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 11:43 PM
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You don't sand the excess p-tex, you scrape it off with a razor blade. Run the blade backwards over the p-tex a bunch of times and it will eventually scrape off. It'll look like this /___ not \____ \___ you will dig into your base with the razor blade, don't do that.

I prefer black p-tex myself but a lot of people claim there's no difference between black and clear.

You want to light the candle on fire, once it gets going you want to make sure you keep spinning it slowly or else you will find it kind of bending on the end and such.. You also may want to practice on a chunk or cardboard or something to figure out how the drip works.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 12:24 AM
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Little trick for you guys worrying about carbon burn get an empty pop or beer can and roll the ptex around the lip that usually catches the carbon and pulls it out too.


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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 12:27 AM
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Well shit, I don't drink pop and my beer comes in bottles.... I will figure something out though.

Good tip BA I'll try it out

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 01:10 AM
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i did a lot of ptex work on my park board today and my main tip when using the candle/drip method is to not let the flame get to big, if it does it is almost guaranteed to leave black residue. You can do this by keeping the candle really close to the base. You will see the flame flicker right before it would go out, when it does pull it slightly away from the base, it will continue to burn then put it almost against the base again. Hope this makes sense
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mtmgiants View Post
i did a lot of ptex work on my park board today and my main tip when using the candle/drip method is to not let the flame get to big, if it does it is almost guaranteed to leave black residue. You can do this by keeping the candle really close to the base. You will see the flame flicker right before it would go out, when it does pull it slightly away from the base, it will continue to burn then put it almost against the base again. Hope this makes sense
I've tried that and I couldn't get a good bond for some reason. I never have a crazy flame, but I get a decent drip going. I like to have a little bit of impact from my drip.

I'm curious if what you're saying is the same thing I'm thinking

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BurtonAvenger View Post
Little trick for you guys worrying about carbon burn get an empty pop or beer can and roll the ptex around the lip that usually catches the carbon and pulls it out too.
you called it pop

i know nothing about ptex but that made me giggle. sorry!


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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 01:41 AM
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It is pop...

"When I do good, I feel good; when I do bad, I feel bad. Thatís my religion." - Abraham Lincoln
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Originally Posted by sedition View Post
Moral of the story: If your going to rob people, wear a diaper.
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