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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-14-2012, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Critique on snowboard drop in plans

Hey guys, this summer I have been building a mini backyard park that I'm going to use this winter, and I have almost finished it. I have a rail, a box, a small rail and a small cannon rail. The final piece of the puzzle is a drop in, as my backyard is flat, and I have drawn up a plan for it.

It would be awesome if you guys (and gals) could give me some advice if you see anything that doesn't look right or you think could be improved.

The reason it is in three sections is so that it can be disassemble-able and also so that I can change it from 5 feet to 7 feet tall.



Top view


Three quarter view


Side view


Thanks for any advice!
glm
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-14-2012, 09:27 PM
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As you have it drawn there:

That ladder looking thing you are using to support the plywood drop-in ramp is going to buckle at the joint where the two parts meet. I think it will probably happen the first time you put your weight on it. You need to tie the lower section of the ramp into the ground underneath the joint. I would keep what you have but add some 2x4 framework underneath the lower ramp section. When you're done it should look like a big doorstop, if that makes sense.

A non-exploded view would be helpful too if you have one.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-14-2012, 10:14 PM
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Ok, take your ladder run in ramp thing & connect the 2x4's so they are straight.

Here are a couple pics, one is how you have it drawn & the other is the way it needs to be.

Then once that is straight, finish it like your drawing, except don't add the plywood skin over top of the ladder run in ramp thing.
Leave spaces in it, just wide enough so that the front of your board doesn't get caught in the rungs, the fewer the better. Less drag.

Now you are ready to rock.

TT
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-14-2012, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmytard View Post
Ok, take your ladder run in ramp thing & connect the 2x4's so they are straight.

Here are a couple pics, one is how you have it drawn & the other is the way it needs to be.

Then once that is straight, finish it like your drawing, except don't add the plywood skin over top of the ladder run in ramp thing.
Leave spaces in it, just wide enough so that the front of your board doesn't get caught in the rungs, the fewer the better. Less drag.

Now you are ready to rock.

TT
That's still gonna break. If you want to go the route that I think Timmy is suggesting and take the middle transition out of the ramp, then make your ramp one piece. And be sure to turn the 2x4's that the "ladder rungs" screw to so that the longer side of the wood (the 4 inch length) is pointing downward, perpendicular to the ground. I like his idea about getting rid of the plywood. It's not needed and will save you money on this project.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 12:31 AM
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No no no, haven't you guys seen any of TT's videos?

You get your fucking gopros out and do what he fucking says.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowklinger View Post
No no no, haven't you guys seen any of TT's videos?

You get your fucking gopros out and do what he fucking says.
That's right kiddies, Uncle snowklinger is right.


Now if you read the best answer, it describes what I took a picture of.
As well as mentioning to pre-drill clearance hole s in one 2x4, the boards will pull tight together

How to screw 2x4's together? - Yahoo! Answers

Just like I explained to you in this post.
http://www.snowboardingforum.com/sno...tml#post509867

I new you were a smart guy snowklinger

But how did you know I was right?

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice. the reason I have the ladder thing there is because it was a bridge I built for my bike. I need the plywood on top because it is way too thin without it. the plywood would be 2 and a half feet wide whereas the bridge ladder thing is only 1 foot wide. But maybe if i just started from scratch on it I would spend less than the 25$ for the plywood... (the life of a cheapskate).

I was thinking to prevent the bridge from collapsing, maybe I could put a notch near the middle then just prop something under it like a chair or something similar and then i could be able to change the angle of the slope with different sized objects propping it up.

here are the non exploded views Frozen.







Thanks so much for all of your help, you guys are awesome!
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 01:14 AM
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Go buy a piece of ready rod(threaded rod) maybe 4 inches longer than the width of your ramp, drill through all the pieces of 2x4.

For each separate side of your ramp put (in this order)starting from the inside, 2 nuts tightened together so they lock & won't loosen, this is shortened up cause I type with 1 finger.

NN,W,2,W,2,W,2,W,NN. Make the middle 2x4 the leg, do that for each side.

If you do it this way, you will be able to fold it all up to the length of the longest section of the ramp. If you wanted too?

TT
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 09:51 AM
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First off:
I am not a carpenter and I have never built anything in woodshop more complicated than a soda-can lamp or a small 2 ft ramp for skateboard/rollerblades.... though I have helped build foam block spring floors for gymnasts

Having said that, I think that your drop in will break if it gets used regularly or has more than 2 people standing on it/using it.

Your braces (especially that bottom one) should have diagonal cross beams on the left/right and front/back to keep it from shifting to 'parallelogram' shape (sorry, don't know the term). You can probably get away without using one on the top frame, but I would put more beams under the platform that people will be standing on, and I would double layer the wood serving as the floor (making sure that seams do not align).

It might be a bit of overkill, but its probably better to over-engineer it the first time than break it mid-season and try to fix it in 30 degree weather.

Your 'ladder' supporting the ramp of the drop should be almost as wide as the ramp itself. No more than 4 inches of overhang on either side.

If you do not put a support in the middle of your 2-piece ramp (either wood, a dirt mound, boulder, etc), then it will move and eventually break. If it were me, I would build a four leg support at the top of the lower ramp section
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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I've finished it!

Well guys, it's been a long time, but I'm finally done! Thanks to everyone for your help, and Tarzanman your non carpenter's opinion was right, the joints were not strong enough, I had to add supports.

NOTE: THE SAWHORSE IS NOT PERMANENT. I AM GOING TO BUILD A SIMILAR THING BUT TIP PROOF

Here's how it turned out:

building:



5 foot height



7 foot height (pic taken earlier so a few things are missing)


With some perspective (without ramp part)



Thank you all so much for helping me. I've had fun building it, and am going to have a lot more using it!
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