|12-06-2012, 07:16 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2012
i have a fairly straightforward question... what are the required tools and how often should i wax?
from my research, the very basic tools are:
*Wax iron ( which to many is superior due to the steam holes in otherwise clothes iron...which is bad news for a stable temperature. however, i saw 'art of flight' movie and right at the first 5' the guy shows a normal cloth iron in his toolshop!! which poses the question that if this pro uses normal iron...why bother with holes or no holes etc!?!?!?)
*ok, the wax based on the temperature of snow u want to be in
* the scrapper
* a clean cloth to wipe off any wax (before?) or after
* a horsehair brush (?)
comment if these are the tools to perform a casual waxing at your home and i m on the right truck of going to buy them.
then, if all of the above are indeed required, do i need also:
* a base solution to first remove old wax (?!?!?!) is that right? or do i just apply on top the waxing?[ do i clean or not beforehand previous layer of wax?! ..every time?] ...and here goes another question, i went last year to a guy that repaired the side (abt 2-3cm) after contacting a 'rocky' part of the snow with a brake stance.. so a small part of the metal did not split in 2.. but it 'unglued' from the base and formed like a C shape... since the rock hit the base from the side and the 'wood' of the base forced the metal to 'bump' up a bit. luckily this expert guy fixed it and now it seems with little notice 'as new'.... my question is, since probably he used stuff like epox and maybe t-rex base repair strips.... will MY procedure for waxing change than a normal waxing? ie will i have to reply anything at that part of the base that was messed up? if i remove the layer of wax for applying a new one as i m talking abt now..will this staff need re-fixing/gluing or whatever? or do i just go ahead..use a solution to break old wax, clean base, apply hot wax on top, scrape it and i m fine?
* do i need any kind of diamond stone/etc for purely waxing?
Ski & Snowboard Tune-up Protocol
Snowboard Waxing Guide | Boardworld
How to Wax a Snowboard - The-House.com
How to Wax a Snowboard
please help me get this process straight before buying unnecessary material...
|12-06-2012, 09:45 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Drunk with power...er beer.
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Blog Entries: 217
There are a number of threads on this subject, so do a search on the forum as well.
But short answer: I wax my boards all the time and I use a $6 clothes iron that I got from Value Village. The thing about steam holes is crap. Just don't USE steam.
You'll need to learn the proper heat setting from experience, but the bottom line is that when ironing your board you should occasionally check the other side with your hand. It should be warm but not hot. It takes a LOT to make it hot, so this isn't delicate work. If you get the board hot enough to cause damage, you weren't paying attention.
You clean the board with a brush, melt and drip wax onto it, then proceed to iron the board and spread the wax. Keep the iron moving slowly.
Some people swear by removing the bindings for waxing, some don't. I don't.
If you're worried about how much scraping to do, err on the side of underdoing it. Any excess wax will be worn off in a run or two anyway (depending on snow conditions).
Most important, don't overthink this. One or two times and you'll be totally comfortable with it.
In retrospect, "Let's get the goat drunk"
should have been my cue to leave the party.