Originally Posted by yusoweird

What is your setup? Kind of hard to tell, but it looks like you are leaning back slightly.

Originally Posted by Officer Shred

Just looking at your video again...

You are also counter-rotated, which means your upper body is working against what your snowboard is trying to do. Your upper body is open and your back hand is trailing out infront of you, especially towards the end of your toeside turns. Stay aligned over your snowboard throughout the turn. Keep your core strong!! Make sure your back hand is behind your bum, not reaching out infront of your body.

This image will help you see the difference:

Originally Posted by Snowolf

Couple of things....

Pick better terrain to begin to learn true carving. That run is really too narrow for carving at this level. It forces you to not close your turns and therefore you skid a lot through the bottoms of the turns.

Try to pick a run with a similar pitch but a lot wider so that you can initiate your carved turns slower and make longer radius turns and complete them so that you can switch edges when your board is completely across the fall line. Completing your turns will allow you control speed through turn shape and it also sets you up much earlier at the top of the turn. This gets the edge set good so that when you get to the bottom of the turn, where there is a lot more force, it stays locked into the snow without skidding.

Only other thing (besides keeping the upper body open as Officer Shred pointed out) that I see is you are doing an up unweight to switch edges. This is a hard habit to break once it gets started. The reason this can get you into trouble is this technique pops you and the board up off the snow which in a turn can start the skid. A much better technique is a down unweight to initiate the edge change and turn. By basically retracting you legs to allow your upper body to drop, you perform the exact same unweighting movement to help with the edge change, but, you lower your center of gravity and also keep the snowboard in contact with the snow at edge change.

Another positive of doing the down unweight is that is allows you to extend throughout the bottom of the turn. This extension in effect provides additional weight to the edge because you are pushing up against your board. This technique allow better edge hold in hard conditions....

Originally Posted by Snowolf

Exactly! Instead of "popping" off the snow by rapidly extending to unweight the board, drop down to the board. It takes a while to get used to and to get the timing right (I struggled with this myself all year prepping for the exams). A down unweighting move is really, just a "collapsing" of the legs to rapidly "drop" toward your board. You can think of this as pulling your legs up toward your upper body (many instructor arguments ensue over this whole concept).

Either way you think of it, the mechanics of the movement are basically identical. Instead of pushing yourself off of the snow with a leg extension, briskly drop lower toward your board (and the snow). This has the same unweighting affect as that "pop", but keeps you lower to the snow and more stable. This becomes especially crucial for the steeps where a "pop" will throw you out and away from the slope causing balance problems as well as landing hard on the new edge and possibly causing it to break loose and skid or chatter.

I do not have a carving video created yet, but this one on dynamic skidded turns is a little similar. It is not an ideal demo of the cross under or down unweighted turn as I was not as dynamic as I should have been, but you can get the idea.

YouTube - Dynamic Skidded Turns

Hope that helps you some in any event at visualizing what is supposed to be going on...