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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Edge Detuning question

I just got a new snowboard that I want to detune to ride rails. I watched a video that says 3-4 degrees would be alright. Although Im going to be doing mostly rails this winter and jumps.


I was wondering on peoples opinions If 4 degrees is enough or if I should go more.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 05:21 PM
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I think 4 is probably the max you want to bevel. Start small with a 2to3 degree bevel. You can always bevel more but you can't unbevel.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serg25 View Post
I just got a new snowboard that I want to detune to ride rails. I watched a video that says 3-4 degrees would be alright. Although Im going to be doing mostly rails this winter and jumps.


I was wondering on peoples opinions If 4 degrees is enough or if I should go more.
what you want is actually called a bevel, and i wouldn't go higher then a 3 degree. i personally use 2 degrees but i also ride big jumps a lot.

detuning involves taking a file and going to town on your edge so its rounded off completely

really you should only detune your tip and tail since they do not contact the snow anyway and put a bevel on the effective edge.


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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by crazyface View Post
I think 4 is probably the max you want to bevel. Start small with a 2to3 degree bevel. You can always bevel more but you can't unbevel.

I'm pretty sure you can re-tune a bevel, But you only have so much edge so I would suggest doing what you said and start at a 2 - 2 and go to 3 - 3 if you really wanted to.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 06:58 PM
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Here's what I do with my park boards.

I get a base bevel of 2 degrees. Then I round the edges between the bindings. Then I round the edges at the contact points.

I do this because I live in an icy area and the sharp edges from the bindings to the effective edge still give me a grip in the snow while the bevel keeps the edge off the rail. Once the edges start to get real beat up I get a 3 degree bevel and do the same thing all over again.
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